Google shop ...

Google has a shop in Sunderland!

Slowly to Stanhope ...

After 24 hours afloat a swift train from Portsmouth to Petersfield and a longish wait for the bus to Bramdean leads to a taxi and Brockwood's favourite driver, Duke, waiting for a pre-booked passenger also heading to the K Centre ... quite confident that the mystery customer will be happy to share, the pack goes in the back and Duke continues his snack, apologising for eating chicken ... explains the situation to David, who arrives a little later ... a long term K student, part-time editor of the books, sometime Buddhist, organiser of visit of HHDL to CERN for discussions on deluded search for smallest particle ... wonderful source of  information over 3 day stay, including filling out the K and Rosalind story mentioned in recent posts ... scandalous news reports in response to slanderous Radha Sloss book (yes, it would be libel if proven untrue, but accuracy sacrificed for linguistic elegance) ... contemporary observation from American insider, "young people in love", and Mary Zimbalist, "she seduced him", suggest the love affair happened and explains subsequent actions of "a woman scorned" and a "husband cuckolded" ... no need to prolong a potentially gossipy story, maybe just to affirm K's humanity and his teaching that it is the message that counts, not the messenger  ...

Bluebells blooming beautifully, sunshine and showers releasing delicate, elusive perfume, trees leafing, The Grove enchanting ... while in nearby fields muckspreaders are releasing stronger agricultural smells, herbicide sprayers a sweet, slightly sickly scent ...

Cast list of guests and staff include Maria and Alvaro from London, he from Colombia now a bus driver, she from Grandas, where coffee was taken a couple of weeks ago on the overlong day from Berducedo to Fonsegrada ... the family house there standing empty, maybe awaiting a Camino business? Stephen, CEO of charity supporting damaged children and offering insights, hope for recovery ... services shockingly underfunded, whether examined through lens of compassion or long term costs of inaction ... Peter, retired counsellor, previously slave to banking software, starting 2 month stint as guest helper ... Kimberly, young mature student, on Easter break from duties as mentor to school students ... Hamid, doctor from Norway, via Iran, here for 2 week retreat, finding a unique quality of silence ... Chris, retired BBC producer, from London and Teesdale ... and David, of course ...

Top deck front seat bus trip to Winchester winds through wealthy villages in time for train across England ... fellow passenger, Alex, student of German and History at Sheffield. .. entertaining group of three youngish women behind, happy to share their dramas ... or oblivious to the audience ...

And so to Stanhope, one month on, the cottage warm and dry ... glad of some company ... just some bookshelves to sort out ...

Biscay and beyond ...

Extra sleep and shower in San Glorio, since facilities frugal for tonight ... meanwhile, the morning wander uncovers the funicular to an effort free view and a very special place for coffee and early lunch, Primo de Origen, Charles and Mary running a stylish enterprise with ingredients sourced and prepared with care ... it shows in their attitude too ... houmous made to order, since chicken in the wrap not desired ... relaxed ambience to rest and write, eat and drink ... and some background from Charles, presenting as Irish, his mother from there, father Swiss, brought up in Hong Kong ... parental plans thwarted by Charles' choice to skip scientific career and first degree in biochemistry, his heart not in it ... disinherited .. second degree in sustainability in Norway, where higher education is free, if you are prepared to learn Norwegian ... London job with Bloomberg philanthropy division ... then into business life with Mary's Venezualan parents, their coffee and cacao plantation ready for harvest ... city venue for roasting, wholesale and retail required, Santander chosen ... and here we are ... for a while ... expansion plans underway, Venezuelan political problems notwithstanding ... still under 30 and flying in a world of their own creation. .. and conscious of alternative worlds ....

On the boat a brief exchange with returning pilgrim Michael, a quiet route from Alicante to Burgos and still in the zone ... a long exchange with Vaughn, with his long term wife Ann, both with Lancastrian accents though having lived in many places, his work as an engineer leading him to Canada, Mexico, BSA, Ireland ... concurring with theory that our DUK PM May have played a devious game to deny the brexiteers their unlikely referendum victory. .. hmm, history may tell the tale one day ...

A short night in a reclining chair rests the brain long enough, then the morning on a calm sea, long conversation with Dom, who left his South London home at 16, now lives mostly in Southern Spain, with Spanish wife and children, working in the oil industry, fully aware of its impact and ethics ... looking forward to retirement a few years off ...

Early lunch, since an hour has been gained and stomach still adjusting ... plenty of time for train to Petersfield, bus to Bramdean and wifi free K centre for a day or so ...

Around Santander ...

Thousands on the streets, children playing late while parents chat ... in a back street bar it's quieter. .. empty actually, perfect for a beer and maybe a pincho of tortilla, though that's not forthcoming from the rather morose owner, his mood maybe only attracting similar miserabilists. ...

Tonight's boat comes in and discharges its cargo of cars, campers and lorries ... economy of carrying goods so far at such cost a question, though of a philosophical nature rather than economic ...

Other questions arise .... what's really going on, when the President of the Benighted States plays the role of buffoon and draws derision from millions and admiration from millions too ... while the teenage hero Greta somehow gains access to the highest levels of power in the mundane world and lectures them about the need for action on climate change ... inspiring a related non-violent direct action movement, the Extinction Rebellion, currently disrupting cities ... if all the world is indeed a stage and humans merely players on it, to participate or to abstain, that is the question ... or one of them anyway ... maybe choose a role which resonates as if real, whilst remembering its illusory nature and retreating to review from time to time ... rather like the between lives review described by ancient philosophical systems ...

Meanwhile, Easter Sunday in Santander dawns fine, with light cloud, perfect for a walk around the peninsulas ... the Magdalena Park and Palace, a beautiful resource for the city folks and tourists, though captive sea lions and penguins mar the experience for this sensitive soul ... speaking of which, first coffee overlooking the bay brings out shifty soul seller, avoiding eye contact as he asks €1.30 for the small coffee, previous native Spanish speaker having been asked €1.20 .. 10 cents rather cheap for a fragment of your soul ... next coffee along the coast, young waiter smiles, mentions €1.50, as smile is returned, handful of change offered, price swiftly amended to €1.30, the difference left on the plate ... the outside table a good place to rest and write before resuming tour ... on to Cabo Mayor ... coast path shared with walkers and runners ... 12.30 a little early for lunch, olives offered with the shandy ... a little more resting and writing ... resurrection procession scheduled for 1pm, though Nature preferred ... each to their own, the old story, deeply embedded, embodied, no longer serving, though never strongly held this time round ... older stories more persuasive ... though stories all the same ... is authentic experience without a narrative possible? Why not? Since stories starting as pointers to the Truth seem so often to be mistaken for it, with dire consequences ...

Along the ridge, off the tourist trail, through suburbs with glimpses of the sea on one side, city on the other ... a restaurant without television, Spanish music instead of Britpop,  an early and filling lunch while locals linger on pre-meal drinks ... English not spoken, but somehow a mixed salad plus patatas bravas appear anyway ...

Returning over the hill, procession still going on, drums a little lighter today ... interesting to observe ... Spanish 4 day holiday comes to an end, British one continues another day ... to be spent by this Brit afloat on the Bay of Biscay ...

Oviedo to Santander

Mind quite relaxed yesterday on the very comfortable Alsa Super Service. .... mostly motorway ...  at Aviles a request to the universe for a simple bed near the station in Oviedo ... and wandering along a sign on the Sidreria says Camas and since limited vocabulary includes this word an optimistic enquiry establishes that there is indeed a single room available for just €25 ... booking dot com, having declared the whole city full, clearly not aware of small Pensions ... anyway, thanks are offered and lack of WiFi or fellow sleepers enables a deep sleep ...  morning options do not include the very scenic train ride, since 7 hours is excessive for a trip taking 2 hours 15 minutes on Alsa's Super Service. .. slower, cheaper off motorway bus trip skipped ... this route has been walked and local scenery not required today ... Santander calls, ferries tonight, tomorrow and Monday ... let's see what's free ... Monday best for timely arrival in Portsmouth. ..

Oviedo an interesting mix of trendy, expensive and older, reasonable ... pedestrian friendly streets ... a €10 menu del dia last night, €3.60 coffee and croissant this morning ... both greeted with a smile and interesting to note the woman serving the overpriced breakfast avoided eye contact until the final sarcasm-free farewell Muchas Gracias ...

On contrasts, an angry alsatian with an extended sense of territory appeared the other day, after Olveiroa, requiring a balance of keen awareness and reduced focus, until it moved too close with its teeth when full attention caused it to skid to a halt and resume barking a little further off ... 20 minutes later, another alsatian emerged silently, unseen, came close for a stroke and left ... weird ...

In Santander a visit to the Maritime Station secures a ticket for Monday ... other sailings not keen on foot passengers ... a reclining seat will do for one night's sleep and other locations are often available later ... so, two days in Santander, the sun is shining and the city packed with wandering long weekenders ... day 3 of the holiday, shops re-open, religious tale pauses until tomorrow's happy ending after yesterday's gory story ....

And after a wander to stretch the legs, Marianna's vegan restaurant provides lunch without meaty discussions ... busy today, a sign of the times, changing fast ... vegetarian menus popping up along the Caminos ... even a little dog joining its humans, safe from predators ...

Still early for bed seeking and even booking dot com suggests budget options available ... let's see ... mind wanders momentarily to the Convento at nearby Santillana, though pilgrim persona on hold for now ...

A little fruitless wandering leads to the 2 star Hotel San Glorio, a reasonably priced comfortable and simple room, without view to distract the imagination ... well, tomorrow's price is reasonable, tonight's is an Easter special ... seems rather unfair on slaves, but that's the capitalist market for you ... the price is what the customer will pay ...  anyway, it's a central base, close to the boat ... itself parked more or less in the centre of town ...

The editor writes from France, suggesting the tone of the blog has turned despondent ... maybe his projection, mood here stable enough and quite content with a shorter than usual Camino season ... the Primitivo has been in view for a while and well worth the effort ... as other pilgrims have noted, the whole enterprise becomes crowded towards Santiago, especially in Easter Week ... no ambition to walk in busier seasons or, for now, other routes ... even pilgrimage can become an attachment!

Negreira to Oviedo ...

Organism rested and even a solid six hours sleep between the late night whispering and the first alarm at 6 ... not sure why, since first light is still an hour away ... anyway, a top bunk in a full 50 bed hostel is an experience and lucky enough to find it ... others turned away ... humans being a social species, mostly, groups of locals are using the 4 day break to play pilgrim to Finisterre ... the blessing of extended solitude and trusting the evening bed without reservations maybe for another time ...

Anyway, the extra early start, an early opening bar, enable a peaceful stage almost all the way without delay ... pilgrim groups going the other way ...

After first and last stop 8km out, folks from Santiago pass ... many rather late for a full day, maybe attending religious ceremonies before departing ... approach to Santiago perhaps the best of all the routes, rural, a decent Calvary before the Cathedral appears ... soon at the Hospedaria San Martin to check on pilgrim rooms at 12.30 ... no room at this inn (possibly a different chapter of the story), all rooms reserved ... ah well, it is a special weekend for the Christians ... this sceptical traveller can go elsewhere ... same story at La Salle, which provided last time San Martin was full ... on towards bus station for other options and a death cult procession passes ... sinister hooded characters, a big cross, drums evoking a resistance to the charade, or parade, and swiftly on ... a brief enquiry at a Wellness Hotel, where a single room is available ... €75 a little steep, massage not included ... and so to the bus ... Oviedo tonight, quite late, though known hotel near the bus station ... internet suggests it is full ... so this post had better go now, from the Cafeteria near Santiago Bus Station, in case tonight is spent in Oviedo Bus or Train Station ... anyway, plan for tomorrow is the train to Santander ...

At Santiago Bus Station, Mackie is waiting for the Muxia bus ... a warm reunion ... a nice coincidence ....

Olveiroa to Negreira ....

After last night's carb loading, the organism is fired up for the day ... the plate of potatoes cocida too much to finish, but since Lola had them prepared specially, it seemed rude not to eat them all ... which meant a little digestive discomfort in the night and a light, early breakfast fine for the 30 plus km to Negreira, with an epic Santiago in the possibility field ... still there past first stop at Santa Marina, 15km, second stop at Vilaserio, 26 km and another bar before Negreira where some time is passed with Chris, from Kettering, happy to share his rather unhappy story of Asperger's, depression, planned escape to Ecuador, where his wife and son live now ... and on, pondering his story, missing the arrows, finding an arrow free alternative, rather further on the other side of the mountain ... arriving tired and without further interest in Santiago today, at Negreira, and the Cafe Imperial and David, who suggests Albergue Anjana is closed ... more conversation in English, since he started life there , many years ago ... holiday today and tomorrow ... most of town closed, but his place full of folks ... a good menu del dia at 3.30. ... walking group of 18 arrive at four for food, since their hotel isn't serving food today ...

At the Albergue San Jose only upper bunk beds available, underneath a snoozing youngster, hopefully not preparing for a late night of fun ... anyway, after the single room luxury last night, it's all experience ... a basic shower, though towel provided ... sheets too ... 4 hours to Santiago tomorrow, carrying the cross ... represented by the rucksack, of course ... this one light enough ... as for morning coffee, it could take a while ... maybe all the way to Santiago ... and the temptation once there is to skip through on a bus to Oviedo, en route to Santander ... though nothing booked and Algarve still there in the possibility field  ...