Rambling in the rain ...

The weather system bringing Arctic conditions to Weardale brings some heavy, warm rain ... extended breakfast philosophy with Marc and Luc passes the time and focuses Luc, sometime student of philosophy at the university, who decided instead to work it out for himself after two terms ... anyway, he has the free guide to the Via de la Plata, has donated several heavy books to the Pousada de Juventude, and is planning his route to Santiago ...

Since staying indoors all day is not an option, wet weather gear gets an outing to Continente, where Dao wine is to be found and since the palate is poor, choosing by the name of places visited seems as good a filter as any, especially if the name is Dao ... yesterday's choice was Reguengos, a fruity red from the village near Portalegre visited a while ago ... vegan lunch with Luc before he heads to the train ... and the time shared with a German family escaping the rather restricted charms of the Escargot Club lifestyle ... another campervan couple, Gill and Russ from Bingley, are having coffee at Santa Luzia and kindly share their table for more philosophy on the free life ...

Back at the hostel lounge, the television is showing traditional American cultural crap ... lots of shouting and shooting ... the casual violence certainly contributing to a decadent society where psychotic schoolchildren routinely massacre their fellow students, teachers and anyone else in the firing line ... it stays on, since someone is watching it, Belgian senior citizen Gert and our room mate, hopefully immune to playing out such roles and almost certainly without access to guns ... when he goes off leaving the villain full of bullets, the opportunity is taken to switch off ... soon reversed by the incoming viewer. .. interestingly, t.v. etiquette usually includes asking before switching channels, but rarely whether the machine of mass manipulation is to be on at all ... the joys of communal living in the mainstream world of lowest common denominators ...

Thoughts today are with Ulrika and Gerhardt, setting out on the Algarviana from Alcoutim today or tomorrow, with plenty of rain still in the forecast ... and with friends in Weardale and around, up to their knees in snow, all the drama of such extreme events, the opportunity for the helpful side of human nature to come to the fore ...

Updates, appointment and an invitation ...

Sun appears again this morning, some clouds too and warm enough ... pre-breakfast coffee with Marc, German troubadour, free thinker and frequencies align for a while ... he missed check in last night, due to late night singing and guitar playing and spent an uncomfortable night outside ...
Living the free life and considering a donkey to accompany him on his wandering ... and a dog ... tricky in the hostels, but helpful for keeping warm when sleeping out perhaps ... climate, of course, a great boon for living free and the Algarve climate is as benign as can be ...

Gudmund reports that David, Portuguese room mate from last time, has a job locally, whilst Diana reports that Diogo, the young pilgrim planning to walk the East Portugal route, has not yet returned to start ... though he may be camping, of course ... anyway, thoughts are with him, Darren on the Lisbon route and the Fantastic Five or six left near Salamanca as the weather turns cool and wet up there ...

Meanwhile, another Diogo, who can be seen on blogs over the years ... in Coimbra, San Enrique, Gibraltar, sends an invitation to visit him near Coimbra and catch up on his Erasmus adventures ... but first the dentist, on Thursday ...

A trip to the market secures the fruit and veg, to Pingo Doce for beans, chick peas, eggs, cheese and wine and stomach has a treat, without meat or fish ... stores for a few days ... some books from the charity shop for browsing ... laundry done ... rinsing out and drying on the pack sometimes needs back up ...

In the kitchen, Ophelia, Londoner via Essex (where lots of Londoners live as the centre has been taken over by shifty traders) ... a yoga teacher, more recently in Sheffield, living her dream in Tavira ... her own studio ... accommodation harder to find ... Tavira these days very popular with French and German folks ... English too, but we get everywhere ... maybe the story of London playing out here ... but where do the Tavira folks go? Diana, once of England, scathing about the decline of the Portuguese language ... the expectation that English is enough ... maybe French too, since many older Portuguese are fluent, having lived and worked there ... and as for Albufeira, she says it is no longer Portugal ...

A mostly rest day, just a little wandering around town ... a few showers and watching FB feeds from Weardale, very pretty in the snow (as long as you have nowhere to go) ...

By bus from Salamanca to Tavira

A good night's sleep in the simply comfortable Hostal and awake in good time for the stroll to the bus station, juice, coffee, churros, croissant. .. only water packed for the trip but a rest for stomach along with other parts is welcome ... tendons connecting feet tenderly remind mind how hard they have worked, how grateful for a proper rest .... not the Achilles which slowed Hannah, but ones at the top ... perhaps ligaments, anyway they are essential to the walker ...

Bus 75 leaves promptly and speeds to motorway awhile before becoming local, along N630 and even more local roads ... calling in at towns missed on the walk as well as some already visited ...after Placencia, a city skipped after Galiteo, it's back to motorway to Caceres ... another view of the high speed train bridge across the Rio Tejo ... that was a long day from Caceres to Canaveral ...

At a nearby seat, Beatrice, a student of English from the ancient university of Salamanca, engages in conversation. .. heading for Caceres and on to her family home near Badajoz, she tolerates some philosophy for a while ...

ALSA likes to keep the bus moving, so drivers change twice and if we want a pee,  we have to be quick ... and best to let the driver know ...

And so, into Seville just five minutes late ... plenty of time for a snack and to buy the EVA ticket ... proper express, direct to Huelva, next stop Vila Real, then Tavira ... and an hour gained crossing the border ... the one lost a couple of weeks ago ...  rain arrives lightly in Seville, heavier by Huelva ... by Tavira it's just damp, though the roads are wet ...

All good for a thirsty Iberia. .. if not for pilgrims or winter short sunshine break Brits ...

At the Pousada de Juventude, Joana is on duty, so a quick catch up ... Gudmund still here, having been robbed on the road ... highly unusual. .. Marina, from Russia, cooking supper, more folks in yet to meet ... porridge, having sat in the pack for over a week, serves as dinner ... plus a trip to the pasteleria for a delicious carob concoction ... and a beer ... it's been a long day sitting down and the feet are grateful for the enforced rest ... good to be back at home from home in Portugal!

Around Salamanca

Well, the ticket was easy enough ... Alsa ticket person speaking good English, 7.45 bus booked arriving 3pm, connecting EVA bus 4.15 ... hopefully at the same bus station ... senior discount applies and €28 seems a bargain for a trip of 500 km and 15 days walking ...

Old city very photogenic in the afternoon sun and near to the Cathedral the Albergue appears, where Ulrika is greeting pilgrims. .. none so far, so time for some philosophy ... including on what it is to be a pilgrim ... tourigrino recognised, though hard to define. .. probably best seen as a continuum from the Juans, Juanmas and Reiners, walking the Ways without money or back up, just trusting the universe, to the bus or car borne visitors to holy places ... in between youngsters testing their physical powers and enjoying a cheap holiday ... some solitude seems necessary here, but that may be special pleading. .. anyway, taking a rain break half way to Santiago is not hard core ... "when the going gets tough ... relax and find an easier way" ... the Via de la Plata Way will be there another day ... meanwhile, a photo of Ulrika and Gerhardt, heading off to their next challenge on the Algarviana from Alcoutim next week  ... and a remarkably easy return to the Hostal, conveniently located near the Bus Station, opposite the Chinese Cafe, where a glass of wine and a small plate of Russian Salad does for supper ... and for you, dear reader, a bonus post, to make up for the irresponsible retreat of next week ...

San Pedro to Salamanca

Later start for the short walk to Salamanca ... breakfast and a photo from Elena, then on the road at 8 ... and having ignored Rafael's advice to add a couple of kilometres for the better route via Morille, discover the long, straight tarmac road, showing no signs of Roman heritage or indeed hand painted yellow arrows ... just the occasional new official route post, though not needed since the city is visible all the way ... a miserly soft shoulder serves the walkers, Sunday sporty cyclists pass in packs, with plenty of "Buen Camino" encouragement ... mind exploring options for coming rain and even snow ... most radical involves retreating to Tavira to rest, await the return of Sun and maybe see Joaquim to sort the teeth, including two fillings removed by almond chocolate bar in Almaden ... no interest in testing wet weather gear for the whole week, and whilst Tavira also has rain forecast, at least it will be warmer rain and there will be shelter and a kitchen to cook vegetarian food for a while ... a retreat for the hard working and uncomplaining stomach ... which is wondering what happened to sweet potatoes, cabbage, sourdough bread, porridge ...

At 5km before the city a village offers coffee and a fine cycle and walking path, segregated from the cars and very popular with Sunday strollers all the way into the city ... they find tarmac congenial, though surfaces with more life are occasionally available ... N630 and big brother arrive from the east ... on their own way since the pass of Bajar and leaving pilgrims peaceful, if short of options for refreshment and beds ...

Historic centre very impressive and bustling with tourists. .. tourist info kindly dispenses maps and a free guide to the Via de la Plata ... worth a read on the bus, though whether the weight is worth the effort after the rain break, we'll see ... clear directions to the bus station are completely beyond the capability of this country boy, who spends the next few hours engaging locals in conversation to find it ... good practice in Spanish and a fair wander in the sun, until it is located, along with a cafe operated by Chinese folks ... much easier than negotiating meat free options and all the hidden bits of ham, chicken stock and so on ... not to mention the over processed bread ... number 84 it is then (stir fried vegetables), plus boiled rice ... fresh orange juice and a coffee complete lunch for €8 ... wifi shows nearby Hostal for €25 and regular buses to Seville ... 7.45 in the morning is favourite, arriving in plenty of time for a connection to Tavira ... well, that's the plan ... time for some more sightseeing without the pack ... and a ticket to Seville ...

Valdeverde to San Pedro

Last night's warm bar and thoughts of snack turned into another full meal ... with leftovers stashed for today's picnic ... Albergue cold, as expected, but warm enough in bed with sleeping bags under bedclothes, and awake refreshed for an extra early start ... the idea to pick up the stage from Fuenterrobles early enough to make the 28k comfortable ... into the dark at 7.15, alerting local dogs, briskly along the road, legs eager, temperature encouraging speed ... first bar at 4.5km does not slow the pace, being closed ... maybe the lack of coffee increases the pace ... in any case, Fuenterrobles arrives at 9.15, sky is clear, Sun is up, breakfast is served and 10 am departure feels like a new day for a steady sub-30 stage for 2 Albergue options plus a Casa Rural ... and a short stroll into Salamanca tomorrow ...

Roman road much in evidence, with authentic looking pillars marking distance, though whether they are distressed artificially or from being buried for a thousand years and more is not clear ... dropping into centurion mode awhile and marching briskly covers the ground and distract the mind as altitude is gained gradually, then steeply up to the summit of the Pico de Duente, a view of Salamanca and a chat with Rafael, early retired from banking and sometime pilgrim on the Primitivo ... living locally, we share the gradual descent until he turns off ... having encouraged an alternative route into Salamanca in the morning ... and advised of rain in the forecast from Tuesday. ..

Focus on lunch energises the legs for the last hour, since 4pm is getting late, even for Spain ... on the way into town an old chap comments on the pace ... briefly explained ... Albergue and Bar Elena clearly marked and through the door at ten past four ... more or less as planned ... tortilla and salad fills the gap and a full supper is proposed for later .... Albergue very warm and cosy, without bunks and nobody else checked in ...

Another stage picked up from Gronze.com proposed itinerary ... a short Sunday stroll tomorrow and time for sightseeing in Salamanca ... as for San Pedro, nothing much to report, apart from the welcome, warm bed and food at Elena's ... and today's 40+ keeping the average over 30 kpd. ..

Aldeanueva to Valdeverde

A deep and restful sleep and a little later on the road ... literally, since the Roman road has been appropriated by the N630 and off road alternatives are patchy ... hard shoulder rather thin and perilous enough for a major walking route ... fortunately most of the traffic is up on the motorway ... light at 7.30, but Sun lingers longer, hiding behind mountains for a while ... meaning winter hat and gloves employed for the first time since snowy Newcastle ... it seems that Spring is not keeping up with this racing pilgrim ... though slowing down today, despite brief flirtation with a possible 43k ...

Banos de Montemayor and coffee comes soon enough ... a good looking spa town, last in Extremedura (unless you are going south) ... after which some significant investment has meant a reconstructed Roman road to lift us over the pass and into Castile y Leon, where the signage changes its form ... no more marble cubes with plastic plates pointing nowhere ... in design, function comes before form, as regular users of teapots may have observed .... the 8 km to the proposed bed in Calzada de Bajar takes a while in the sunshine as the pace slows, with frequent stops ... a pretty village, with plenty of bed choices (heating being a key factor at this altitude) and only one Bar, which is open and serving lunch ...

Manuel offers to take the photo by the marker showing progress in the first fortnight ... making the Way while the Sun shines, and already stage 16 on Gronze.com ... rest days maybe reserved for rain, though body is not demanding respite so far ...

At the bar, Charo serves a lovely lunch, then Jimmy arrives on his bike, with updates from yesterday's Fantastic Five progress ... Super Seven apparently, with Gustavo and Jimmy joining the walkers, while Hannah takes Jimmy's bike onto their off route destination ... teamwork!

Jimmy heads off, another 20 plus in mind, while research locally reveals intended Casa Rural beds fully booked ... Albergue shunned and Valdeverde, 8km further, the destination ... en route Tomas stops in his truck for a chat and reveals Reiki skills, demonstrated by diagnosing the right big toe injury and applying healing ... feedback on results in future blogs ...

Into Valdeverde at 5.15 and the first person encountered reveals she has the key to the Albergue ... no other pilgrims about, no heating or WiFi, but comfortable enough, with hot shower ... bar has wifi, though weak ... let's see whether the plentiful pics arrive, or wait for another day ..,