Around Santander ...

Thousands on the streets, children playing late while parents chat ... in a back street bar it's quieter. .. empty actually, perfect for a beer and maybe a pincho of tortilla, though that's not forthcoming from the rather morose owner, his mood maybe only attracting similar miserabilists. ...

Tonight's boat comes in and discharges its cargo of cars, campers and lorries ... economy of carrying goods so far at such cost a question, though of a philosophical nature rather than economic ...

Other questions arise .... what's really going on, when the President of the Benighted States plays the role of buffoon and draws derision from millions and admiration from millions too ... while the teenage hero Greta somehow gains access to the highest levels of power in the mundane world and lectures them about the need for action on climate change ... inspiring a related non-violent direct action movement, the Extinction Rebellion, currently disrupting cities ... if all the world is indeed a stage and humans merely players on it, to participate or to abstain, that is the question ... or one of them anyway ... maybe choose a role which resonates as if real, whilst remembering its illusory nature and retreating to review from time to time ... rather like the between lives review described by ancient philosophical systems ...

Meanwhile, Easter Sunday in Santander dawns fine, with light cloud, perfect for a walk around the peninsulas ... the Magdalena Park and Palace, a beautiful resource for the city folks and tourists, though captive sea lions and penguins mar the experience for this sensitive soul ... speaking of which, first coffee overlooking the bay brings out shifty soul seller, avoiding eye contact as he asks €1.30 for the small coffee, previous native Spanish speaker having been asked €1.20 .. 10 cents rather cheap for a fragment of your soul ... next coffee along the coast, young waiter smiles, mentions €1.50, as smile is returned, handful of change offered, price swiftly amended to €1.30, the difference left on the plate ... the outside table a good place to rest and write before resuming tour ... on to Cabo Mayor ... coast path shared with walkers and runners ... 12.30 a little early for lunch, olives offered with the shandy ... a little more resting and writing ... resurrection procession scheduled for 1pm, though Nature preferred ... each to their own, the old story, deeply embedded, embodied, no longer serving, though never strongly held this time round ... older stories more persuasive ... though stories all the same ... is authentic experience without a narrative possible? Why not? Since stories starting as pointers to the Truth seem so often to be mistaken for it, with dire consequences ...

Along the ridge, off the tourist trail, through suburbs with glimpses of the sea on one side, city on the other ... a restaurant without television, Spanish music instead of Britpop,  an early and filling lunch while locals linger on pre-meal drinks ... English not spoken, but somehow a mixed salad plus patatas bravas appear anyway ...

Returning over the hill, procession still going on, drums a little lighter today ... interesting to observe ... Spanish 4 day holiday comes to an end, British one continues another day ... to be spent by this Brit afloat on the Bay of Biscay ...

Oviedo to Santander

Mind quite relaxed yesterday on the very comfortable Alsa Super Service. .... mostly motorway ...  at Aviles a request to the universe for a simple bed near the station in Oviedo ... and wandering along a sign on the Sidreria says Camas and since limited vocabulary includes this word an optimistic enquiry establishes that there is indeed a single room available for just €25 ... booking dot com, having declared the whole city full, clearly not aware of small Pensions ... anyway, thanks are offered and lack of WiFi or fellow sleepers enables a deep sleep ...  morning options do not include the very scenic train ride, since 7 hours is excessive for a trip taking 2 hours 15 minutes on Alsa's Super Service. .. slower, cheaper off motorway bus trip skipped ... this route has been walked and local scenery not required today ... Santander calls, ferries tonight, tomorrow and Monday ... let's see what's free ... Monday best for timely arrival in Portsmouth. ..

Oviedo an interesting mix of trendy, expensive and older, reasonable ... pedestrian friendly streets ... a €10 menu del dia last night, €3.60 coffee and croissant this morning ... both greeted with a smile and interesting to note the woman serving the overpriced breakfast avoided eye contact until the final sarcasm-free farewell Muchas Gracias ...

On contrasts, an angry alsatian with an extended sense of territory appeared the other day, after Olveiroa, requiring a balance of keen awareness and reduced focus, until it moved too close with its teeth when full attention caused it to skid to a halt and resume barking a little further off ... 20 minutes later, another alsatian emerged silently, unseen, came close for a stroke and left ... weird ...

In Santander a visit to the Maritime Station secures a ticket for Monday ... other sailings not keen on foot passengers ... a reclining seat will do for one night's sleep and other locations are often available later ... so, two days in Santander, the sun is shining and the city packed with wandering long weekenders ... day 3 of the holiday, shops re-open, religious tale pauses until tomorrow's happy ending after yesterday's gory story ....

And after a wander to stretch the legs, Marianna's vegan restaurant provides lunch without meaty discussions ... busy today, a sign of the times, changing fast ... vegetarian menus popping up along the Caminos ... even a little dog joining its humans, safe from predators ...

Still early for bed seeking and even booking dot com suggests budget options available ... let's see ... mind wanders momentarily to the Convento at nearby Santillana, though pilgrim persona on hold for now ...

A little fruitless wandering leads to the 2 star Hotel San Glorio, a reasonably priced comfortable and simple room, without view to distract the imagination ... well, tomorrow's price is reasonable, tonight's is an Easter special ... seems rather unfair on slaves, but that's the capitalist market for you ... the price is what the customer will pay ...  anyway, it's a central base, close to the boat ... itself parked more or less in the centre of town ...

The editor writes from France, suggesting the tone of the blog has turned despondent ... maybe his projection, mood here stable enough and quite content with a shorter than usual Camino season ... the Primitivo has been in view for a while and well worth the effort ... as other pilgrims have noted, the whole enterprise becomes crowded towards Santiago, especially in Easter Week ... no ambition to walk in busier seasons or, for now, other routes ... even pilgrimage can become an attachment!

Negreira to Oviedo ...

Organism rested and even a solid six hours sleep between the late night whispering and the first alarm at 6 ... not sure why, since first light is still an hour away ... anyway, a top bunk in a full 50 bed hostel is an experience and lucky enough to find it ... others turned away ... humans being a social species, mostly, groups of locals are using the 4 day break to play pilgrim to Finisterre ... the blessing of extended solitude and trusting the evening bed without reservations maybe for another time ...

Anyway, the extra early start, an early opening bar, enable a peaceful stage almost all the way without delay ... pilgrim groups going the other way ...

After first and last stop 8km out, folks from Santiago pass ... many rather late for a full day, maybe attending religious ceremonies before departing ... approach to Santiago perhaps the best of all the routes, rural, a decent Calvary before the Cathedral appears ... soon at the Hospedaria San Martin to check on pilgrim rooms at 12.30 ... no room at this inn (possibly a different chapter of the story), all rooms reserved ... ah well, it is a special weekend for the Christians ... this sceptical traveller can go elsewhere ... same story at La Salle, which provided last time San Martin was full ... on towards bus station for other options and a death cult procession passes ... sinister hooded characters, a big cross, drums evoking a resistance to the charade, or parade, and swiftly on ... a brief enquiry at a Wellness Hotel, where a single room is available ... €75 a little steep, massage not included ... and so to the bus ... Oviedo tonight, quite late, though known hotel near the bus station ... internet suggests it is full ... so this post had better go now, from the Cafeteria near Santiago Bus Station, in case tonight is spent in Oviedo Bus or Train Station ... anyway, plan for tomorrow is the train to Santander ...

At Santiago Bus Station, Mackie is waiting for the Muxia bus ... a warm reunion ... a nice coincidence ....

Olveiroa to Negreira ....

After last night's carb loading, the organism is fired up for the day ... the plate of potatoes cocida too much to finish, but since Lola had them prepared specially, it seemed rude not to eat them all ... which meant a little digestive discomfort in the night and a light, early breakfast fine for the 30 plus km to Negreira, with an epic Santiago in the possibility field ... still there past first stop at Santa Marina, 15km, second stop at Vilaserio, 26 km and another bar before Negreira where some time is passed with Chris, from Kettering, happy to share his rather unhappy story of Asperger's, depression, planned escape to Ecuador, where his wife and son live now ... and on, pondering his story, missing the arrows, finding an arrow free alternative, rather further on the other side of the mountain ... arriving tired and without further interest in Santiago today, at Negreira, and the Cafe Imperial and David, who suggests Albergue Anjana is closed ... more conversation in English, since he started life there , many years ago ... holiday today and tomorrow ... most of town closed, but his place full of folks ... a good menu del dia at 3.30. ... walking group of 18 arrive at four for food, since their hotel isn't serving food today ...

At the Albergue San Jose only upper bunk beds available, underneath a snoozing youngster, hopefully not preparing for a late night of fun ... anyway, after the single room luxury last night, it's all experience ... a basic shower, though towel provided ... sheets too ... 4 hours to Santiago tomorrow, carrying the cross ... represented by the rucksack, of course ... this one light enough ... as for morning coffee, it could take a while ... maybe all the way to Santiago ... and the temptation once there is to skip through on a bus to Oviedo, en route to Santander ... though nothing booked and Algarve still there in the possibility field  ...

Muxia to Oliveiroa ...

Rose from Albergue Delfin predicts a rain free day, though after 20 minutes a few drops bring her forecasting skills into question ... the afternoon persistent rain confirms she should stick to running the excellent albergue ... she also tells of a new route being developed, the Via Mariana, from Braga to Muxia, with blue and green arrows ... maybe another time ... meanwhile, following the Camino Santiago route towards Santiago proves tricky, since the official markers are pointing the wrong way ... or maybe  .... anyway, there is a relaxed approach, with options at 20, 25 and 30 ... and plenty of pilgrims walking the wrong way, or the right way if you're following the markers ... a chance to engage folks with a little conversation ... pilgrims and bar owners ... and the Italian couple last seen in Berducedo ... a very warm and unexpected brief reunion ...

On the Mariana theme, news comes through about a fire at Notre Dame, a big church in Paris, named after Our Lady, though a cause of dissension, since the other Mary in the Jesus story was his wife and written out of history in that role, since sex was shrouded in shame and celibacy elevated to a point of principle ... with all the ensuing problems of suppressed sexual energy which we don't need to go into here ... well, it's a pity about the fire, but nobody died and in the end all these redundant forms decay, their purpose long since lost ...

Recent observation and reflection suggests a relationship between the weight of the rucksack and the weight of the thoughts in the head, or wherever they hang around ... not so strange really, since the relationship between possessions and peace of mind has long been accepted ... more is less, less is more ... everything is nothing, nothing everything ...

Semana Santa is well underway, lots of Spanish pilgrims on the road, though at Casa Loncho, there is space in the albergue and private rooms too ... the decision still in the balance whilst waiting patiently at the bar, with passports ready ... a tired and assertive peregrina arrives to jump the queue ... checks in to the albergue and makes the decision to choose a private room for a little peace ... and radiators to dry the clothes soaked during the walk as well as socks washed in the shower .... playing a stereotypical role, the peregrina turns out to be from the Benighted States of America, and later manages to miss the late arriving tired and wet peregrina and jump in front of her too ...

Feet feeling fine after morning dressing with lip balm and pads from Nil ... stomach griping a little last night after supper of beer, banana and a bar of chocolate ... complaint confirmed by this morning's evacuation ... needs of the temple, which is whole organism, demanding more attention ... oats for breakfast, soup for lunch, lentil soup and salad with boiled potatoes fits the bill ...  feedback tomorrow, though feeling rather full .... still, it's early enough yet, time to digest before bedtime ... tomorrow Negreira, maybe more ...

Fisterra to Muxia ...

After a few day's rest and yesterday's wander up to the lighthouse, along to the sacred stones and back home, the feet are fit for some more work and the weather looks fair for a walk along to Muxia ... the cast at the Espiral changes as the Italian folks take the bus to Santiago, Nil prepares supper, Mark arrives from Santiago via Cee  and Northern Ireland .... Hans Christian from Santa Marina via Denmark, having done the Santiago walk in two days, hence his rather knackered state ...

This morning porridge is made, Pietro prepares for Muxia with a plateful and we set off late enough, just before 9 ... his plan is to follow the lighthouse way, considerably more strenuous and scenic than the marked Way ... and since philosophy is on the agenda it's upping and downing, sometimes almost vertically along the cliffs to Lirres, the halfway point and parting of the ways ... menu del dia and rest ... he heads on to lie in nature, eat a picnic, maybe sleep outside later ... a beautiful soul ...

Afternoon 15 is inland, off road, through woodland ... feet and legs happy enough ... Albergue Delfin calls, run by Rose, a pilgrim from Hungary ... only two tonight,  Dieter on the early bus to Santiago ... an option, though a wander back via Dumbria more likely ... the morning will decide, but the energy is moving towards a Santander crossing next Monday and a few days at Brockwood Park, before returning to the neglected house on Railway Terrace and the bookshelves required to release the library from its boxes ...

A quick trip to the restaurant at the end of the universe ...

Late night supper leads to latest morning for quite a while ... and rain ... never mind, the organism is settled and feet ready for first reunion with their walking shoes since Santiago ... and laced in without complaint for the post-breakfast wander the few kilometres to the lighthouse ... and the restaurant at the end of the universe ... or bar at the end of the westward Ways anyway ... North  lies Muxia, with its own energy and a decent day's walk for tomorrow perhaps. .. meanwhile more philosophy at breakfast with the very deep duo hospitalero, Pietro and Simone ... plus Nil and new peregrina Nina, from Germany ... temptation to discover nationality persisting, though the dangers of identification with such arbitrary boundaries acknowledged ...

French duo, Antoine and Nathan, prepare for Santiago and debriefing on results of first month of amazing programme to reprogramme young people away from a life of crime ...  seems to be working for 16 year old Nathan, already planning his next Camino, though more work at a centre in Andalusia is required next ... these projects run by a voluntary sector association an inspiration for other nations and their justice departments, too often driven by outdated notions of punishment ... troubled youngsters so often demonised as a problem for society, rather than the more enlightened view ... a young person produced by a dysfunctional society ... so, dear readers, here's our choice, shall we punish the child for failing to fit in to a world of violence, coercion, fear, greed .... batter them into shape to become a broken, obedient slave for the decaying system? Or ... open their hearts to love and the More Beautiful World Our Hearts Know is Possible ... which, if you wonder about the capitalisation, is also the title of a book by Charles Eisenstein, available via Hive, your ethical alternative to the tax avoiding, people exploiting, high street destroying behemoth whose name need not be mentioned ... attention being energy and without judgement of good or bad ... which is why this traveller through the parallel universe(s) of the Camino(s) de Santiago chooses to clear out decades, maybe lifetimes, of conditioning and coercion to old stories, keep all the illusions, including persistent parables of consensus reality, in awareness, while focusing on the new world we create with our energies of love ... the immortal role models of Lao Tse, Buddha, Jesus, J.Krishnamurti, Ramana Maharshi, Martin Luther King, John Lennon and others, joined by new inspirations ... like Greta Thunberg ... Nathan ... 

If any of these ramblings offend sensibilities, especially in Semana Santa when the myth of suffering, crucifixion and resurrection is so strong, then ... sorry! As seen and described before on these pages, the separation is the fundamental problem, or error, or original sin (sin actually only being an error covered with layers of judgement) ... and once the numinous is experienced and seen as not separate we fall into the ancient heresy, for which many were burned, crucified, shot or otherwise martyred ... ah, well ... truth is truth and better spoken than suppressed ... blocking our divine nature never turns out well in the end ... the end being only a phrase of limited use in a cosmos of beginingless and endless universes ... as suggested by contemporary scientist Jude Currivan, prophets through the ages, systems in Buddhist and Hindu cosmology and so on ...