Engaging ...

Early brisk walk through woods displaying yellows and browns in preparation for stripping back to the bark ... morning engagement with Peter, fellow philosopher and regular blog reader, one of a select band of four or five and always encouraging the effort ...

Afternoon wander to the village co-op reveals long lost friends heading soon for new life in Portugal, then Gillian, local Angel of the community ... on the street another community activist, Jean for a few words before a visit to Marjorie, elder friend having small crisis and a visit from paramedic prescribing antibiotics and statins  to ward off chest infection ... and under the care of Geraldine, another community volunteer, a retired nurse ... all of which affirms the sense of home, albeit 500 miles north of the childhood one ...

Temperature outside takes noticeably chilly turn, inside heating system keeps it cosy and house feeling very homely for now ... no thoughts of flying south just yet ...

Home ...

After 3 days travelling from home at La Espiral to home in Stanhope, three weeks away a shorter trip than usual, the cottage on Railway Terrace feels welcoming and a fire in the multi-fuel burner soon warms the place up ...

Rather surreal in the B&B, alone in the breakfast room, set for 15 folks looking forward to cereal and juice, fry up of eggs, sausages, bacon, beans and tomatoes plus toast and marmalade, tea or coffee ... Maureen has left muesli and juice out as requested and coffee was taken in the room ... off to the station in good time for the 7.25 only to discover it cancelled due to high tides and strong winds threatening the track at Dawlish ... London bound Great Western is advised to Exeter, where the Cross Country services are commencing ... already an hour late and a different train, quite crowded, but a seat is found and the trip to Durham passes easily enough, arriving only a few minutes late ... plus the hour, which looks like a bargain trip under the scheme to pay passengers for delays ... brief conversations with fellow passengers, but mostly absorbed by Jon Ronson's book ... its many implications, including the thing most of us may already have worked out: that many business leaders and politicians are psychopaths ...

A run from the station to bus station rewarded by timely bus to Crook, then a chance to call into the newly opened Aldi for provisions before the last leg to Stanhope ... 3 weeks and a day away, General Election fever competing with Halloween tomorrow, Guy Fawkes night next week, poppy emotional blackmail well underway, Christmas shopping fever ... all of which will be held lightly if at all ...

Plymouth

Biscay calm enough last night for sound sleep, increasingly rough in the morning, leading the Captain to bar access to outside decks for our own safety ... quite right too, it was very bracing out there, early walk round having preceded Captain's warning ...

Full engagement with other passengers avoided and Jon Ronson's "The Psychopath Test" entertains, informs and educates, along with the Observer to catch up on goings on in the last 3 weeks ... nothing much to report as EU hokey-cokey continues and Rugby Tournament is still not finished ...

Arrival in Plymouth only 30 minutes late due to storm and traditional B&B located near Hoe for evening stroll as Sun sets over harbour and full english breakfast before train north ... in another reality. .. in this one it's raining and breakfast is served too late for early train ... picnic supper in warm, dry and comfy room suffices after good lunch afloat ...

Camino season done for the year, two Primitivos plus Finisterre ... organism satisfied and ready for winter retreat in Stanhope ...

By Bla Bla car to the boat ...

As is often explored and explained, conceptual knowledge is not real until embodied, experienced ... and so with this liftsharing platform from France, now in regular use by young people in Spain, Portugal, Italy and elsewhere ... patience and perseverance sets up the 9 am pick up by the bus stop, Nicola right on time and ahead of schedule with 14.35 arrival at Torrelavega, including pick-up of second passenger en-route ... Susanna, on her way to Bilbao ... Nicola heads for San Sebastian today, Milan tomorrow, with a French couple to collect in Pau and drop in Monaco ... meaning his fuel and toll costs are covered, plus he has some company on the long drive ... favourite FEVE train station right by drop off speeds into Santander by 15.15 and boarding pass secured before stretch for legs around town ... warm and sunny 20° unlike rainy Finisterre this morning ...

Before this very efficient trip, another rather snory night in the dorm means tonight's tiny solo cabin looks like a real haven and ensuite toilet eases any nocturnal incontinence ... a very warm embrace from Coline (ed. please note previous misspelling) and Bernard, and a short trip to the bus stop means legs are wondering what's going on, while feet are quietly grateful for a complete rest .... the philosophy has gone very deep with Coline, in the zone after 2 months on the Way without smartphone or other technology ... the increase of techgadgetry over the last 5 years is noticeable and intrusive ... perhaps a reflection of the dilution of the purpose of pilgrimage along with the ever increasing numbers. .. especially from Tui, Sarria and other Compostela earning short trips ... taxis advertise pick ups of tired pilgrims as well as onward baggage to lighten the load ... taxigrinos ... others more focused on the holiday aspect known as turigrinos ... all of which holier than thouness begs the question of what a pilgrim is ... maybe best to discern case by case, without judgement ... if indeed even discernment is required ... walking always in groups, navigating by smartphones, plugged in to music or whatsapp chatter diminishing pilgrimness ... Coline exemplifying the possibilities ... others too ... never mind, the Compostela may or may not get you into heaven, but it seems quite helpful on cvs when employers are seeking character reference beyond academic qualifications ...

Pont Aven provides simple needs, including great veggie early supper to make up for skipped lunch .. a book and yesterday's newspaper for a day afloat and another by train ... time on-board is UK time, another hour back meaning bed is calling, this time without snoring ...

Deeper in Fisterra. ..

A snory night with sufficient sleep ... other floors experiencing similar situations and morning, later since clocks went backwards when we weren't looking, reveals consequent mini dramas ... Colline having rewarded Nicola's late, noisy night with an early light ... in the private room resident Italian has music playing loud enough to disturb Bernard next door ... in middle dorm 3 Swiss women, having arrived late and spending inordinate amounts of time in bathroom and snoring most of the night, request extra day ... equanimity holds despite the prospect of another noisy night ....

At breakfast philosophy ensues with Colline who reveals Protestant loyalties, though unclear about what she is protesting ... Once True Faith perhaps ... nevertheless and Jesus notwithstanding, common ground is found beyond the words ...

Wandering in search of non-existent Sunday opening supermarket, Fatima appears to say Michele is cooking later ... leaving morning clear for solo meander to the faro and up to the sacred stones on a still, warm, sunny day ... perfect for reflecting on this morning's conversation ... musing on book gestating ready for winter writing perhaps ....

Return to La Espiral reveals Michele's plan for late lunch at 3 ... so, to La Galeria and vino with tapa and writing by window overlooking marina. ..

Community Sunday lunch goes convivially, Fatima assists sorting Blabla Car, ferry booked for tomorrow, Plymouth Tuesday evening ... enough reservations for one day ...

Lunch in Lires ...

Blablacar continues to occupy time, as possible driver with Fisterra address inspires search in the real world rather than the tricky virtual one ... though address seems not to exist ... anyway, as patience is exercised with another full day to book the ride and no boat or train depending on the first step, two more nights are booked at La Espiral and the Monday evening boat will return on Wednesday if alternative transport is required.

A stroll out with options  open uncovers Audrey setting off for Lires and an interesting conversation ensues ... her life as daughter of US secret agent in Japan and Indonesia, as police officer investigating child abuse, now early retired at 55 and enjoying the Way slowly ...

At Lires she heads for hostel ... menu del dia sets up 12 km return via coast and a steady day's walking in dry, sometimes sunny weather ...

Back at the hostel a new batch of pilgrims arrive, including Colline from France,  who left Le Puy two months ago ....

More home cooking from yesterday's shopping appreciated by incoming pilgrims and Bernard, French hospitalero ...

Clocks change tonight ... no pressing engagements to demand attention to that ... just Blablacar to sort, or bus alternatives for Wednesday's sailing ....

to the faro ...

Late enough start and lazy breakfast, researching options for return ... no longer including  Brockwood, since long weekend after this one fully booked ... brand new option opens with Bla bla car, known conceptually but not so far experienced ...  choices from here all the way without troubling the buses ...

As Simone and Bernard prepare to clean the place it's off to see the Faro at the end of the earth again ... dry, gentle walk up from town, an encounter with Audrey from Colorado, previously seen trudging wetly in sandals yesterday morning and now talking of two day stroll to Muxia ... up and along to the Sacred Stones (pagan version of the Cathedral in Santiago) and back down to establish catering options for today, including an offer to cook this evening, though Artem, arriving from Russia via the Primitivo and last seen in Ferreira claims experience as a professional chef and the job is gladly handed over ...  an interesting and earnest briefing on modern Russia claims Moscow as one of the best cities in the world, whilst some issues are noted in regions ... anyway Artem now works in public relations for charities and the centrist party headed by V. Putin ... an interesting idea justified by the presence of communist and fascist parties in parliament ...