Clocks go forward an hour, though Sun is up only a little earlier ... breakfast at Albergue, coffee, juice, bread and jam a wise choice, since first open cafe on the road arrives 3 hours later after a coastal track, some woods, a little road ... shorts on as Sun comes up and gorgeous all the way to Casa Raul near Navas for fresh orange juice and good coffee though no meat-free pinchos to be found ... never mind, Sun brings energy directly and almost half the stage is done by 11 ... an hour later Nueves appears with lots of cafe choices including tortilla ... after that it's a steady plod mostly on dirt tracks all the way to Ribadesela by 3 and a filling menu del dia before looking for a bed ... which turns up in a 2 star pension for a little comfort after yesterday's austere delights alone in a 6 bed dormitory with heating spared and three blankets to keep warm ... proper sleeping bag skipped for sake of weight and volume in the pack ... possibly a problem in busy hostels, but they seem very quiet now ... no pilgrims seen all day ... perhaps things will pick up for Easter ...
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