Oviedo to Grado ...

April showers all the way, heavy enough to test the raingear ... which survives and dries in sunny interludes ...

Oats soaked in water plus banana in the room provides fuel for the day, orange juice and cafe solo in hotel bar the spark and place to wait until heavy rain desists ...

Oviedo reluctant to say goodbye, directions from the Cathedral tricky, conches set in the pavement considered more aesthetically pleasing than yellow arrows ... meaning a meander around engaging the locals in route finding, a second coffee while very friendly young bar person explains the way ... keen to speak English and taking classes ... soon leading to third coffee at bar where arrows start ... to pee and deploy cape to combat heavy shower ... after which two bars appear after two hours, both closed and another an hour later, this one helpfully pointing 200 metres off route, and more accurately at the bar itself informing wet, tired, thirsty, hungry, possibly bursting for relief, a particular problem for female pilgrims especially in wet weather, that between January and May they only open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. ..

Meanwhile, on the pilgrim front, things are looking up, especially with a later start and fast pace ... an international selection encountered from Sweden, Ukraine, Italy, Spain and Korea ... mostly older, except Bomi the Korean woman ... the only one detained for much conversation, Annelille from Gothenburg, Camino veteran having already walked the Primitivo amongst others ... retired from teaching in Steiner schools and resonating philosophically ... eventually abandoned as rain persists ... on and on until 3km from Grado, at 1.45, a restaurant and menu del dia ... potato salad with grated carrot, onions, hard boiled egg, for first course, egg and chips second ... vegetarian options rather limited ... rice pudding for dessert, red wine and coffee all for a filling bargain €10 ... and welcome rest for feet and legs ...

In Grado, Albergue Quintana located with more local help ... Lorena opened it last year ... municipal albergue resisted though likely destination for other pilgrims ... chocolate and churros plus language practice, avocado and banana from supermarket make healthyish evening snack ... weather looking drier tomorrow, though unsettled for a while ... and in Stanhope, snow ...