Morning arrives with revised rain predictions ...later in the day ... and since we can't afford streams deeper than ankles, not to mention sticky tracks, it's another hard shoulder day all the way ... at 28km a little shorter than the current marked Way and much faster in the conditions .. Helmut concurs and the company compensates for the severity of asphalt and the road to the horizon .. following wind pushes us on and brings a few squally showers ... a short coffee stop elicits a friendly exchange with the owner, delighted with the compliment for her coffee and disclosing that she is Portuguese, like her coffee, which is, of course, the best in the world ...
A second stop at Morales is just 6km from Zamora, where the Albergue is easily found, along with hospitalero voluntario Luis and colleague Rafa, both seasoned pilgrims ... Anna arrived earlier having broken the stage from Cubo at the intermediate Albergue on the official route ... being a native German speaker, she offers some relief to Helmut, gamely switching between Spanish and English ...
After lunch with Anna and Helmut, a wander is in order, to establish the morning route and create an appetite for the communal supper at the albergue ... plenty of signs, so no problem, though a Portuguese alternative is to be avoided ... unless that is seen as an option, of course ... current plan is for Astorga and the French Way, where 40km stages are easier to arrange, with plenty of options for sleeping and eating .... more pilgrims too, though they are building up as Spring arrives .... before the main junction of the Via de la Plata, the Sanabres via Ourense, favoured by Helmut, or the French Way via Astorga, there are two short stages, or one long one ... and since the long one is a little over 40km, that's tomorrow's target today ... in the morning, as always, things are clearer ...
Communal supper convivial in Spanish, some understood ... anyway the pilgrim communication operates beyond words ... a special kind of Albergue and reputed to be the finest on the Via de la Plata ...
Stephen! Have you heard about The Remaining Three from Rafa&Louis at the albergue in Zamora? We were there on their first night as hospitalero. We made it to Santiago on March 16th. Buen Camino. Giulia.
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