Out at eight after breakfast with peregrinos and hospitalero ... and a swift return having remembered the donativo principle a few minutes late ... bed and food all offered freely and the donation is freely offered ... a great way to subvert the traditional economy and enabling those few pure pilgrims travelling without money to eat and sleep ... the donations of the others has to balance it in the end and forgetful pilgrims may spoil the game ... anyway, for sure if this pilgrim had not returned the omission would have lurked in the mind for the rest of this life at least ...
The pace is fast, Anna and Helmut abandoned to relax into their native tongue, and the dirt roads are fine for the morning ... the short Gronze stage of 18 km completed before midday ... a tortilla snack and onwards, negotiating diversions round a new high speed railway line, onto more mucky roads then back to the reliable N630 for a mediocre 3pm menu del dia with a risky red wine ... after which it's hard shoulder all the way to Granja, spits and spots of rain, some Sun, a cool breeze and the 40k is done by 5 pm .. a friendly local taking care of locating the Casa Rural selected for the night ... municipal Albergue available, but unlikely to meet Zamora standard or to have pilgrims or resident hospitaleros ...
No people pics to post today, just the signs for the junction of the Via de la Plata in Granja ... the decision is for tomorrow, but Astorga still favourite ...
At the bar, cheese and tomato bocadillo filling enough for supper, whilst on the tv several young men in fancy dress torture a bull and finally kill it ... the few folks in the bar take little interest and the bull ring is almost empty ... the cruel charade is taking a while to die, but it will ... Spain very much a civilised country these days and such barbarism doesn't sit well ...
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