Grandas ...

Early rain encourages full waterproofing, though morning turns out mostly dry, if windy ... wonderful walk across sierra and low route still quite high ... mostly off road again and solitude appreciated as various pilgrims overtaken right into Berducedo for first coffee since breakfast at 12.30 and two Spanish pilgrims popping up at each stage this time without packs ... taxis taking the strain ... spiritual pride absent but some residual pride in physical performance noted ... all work in progress ... onto La Mesa for lunch at 1.30 and an hour to convince the legs that the 15km afternoon upping, downing and upping again to Grandas de Selime is another day ... energy levels fine and last hour assisted by human engagement ... Daniel, from Czech Republic shares some energy up to the town with a dark secret ... learned from a woman born here, moved away to Gijon for work, then to London ... encountered at the K Centre in spring ... Grandas was the summer home of General Franco ... known as the usurper of the democratically elected government or saviour of Spain from the anti-christ, supported by the Vatican, Hitler and Mussolini, depending on your point of view ... anyway, a €20 room in a Pension is soon found, restaurant attached offers second menu del dia, only fair to the organism since we covered 40km over the mountains, normally two stages, in one long day ... body in shape for some long legs on the way to Santiago, though tomorrow looks shorter ... tricky to break stages up and 50 probably too much as we climb out of Asturias into Galicia ...