Yesterday's walk goes unrecorded, since pilgrim engagement at the Albergue de Bodanaya is full on and also full since its reputation on pilgrim networks means further advertising is not required ... a special experience and one of the factors in returning to the Primitivo ... off-road tracks through forests another reason after the excess tarmac on the Norte. .. popularity of Bodanaya promotes breaking of reservation rule with morning email to David to secure a bed ... early exit from Grado produces Francisco, architect from Valencia, currently living in Belgium, fluent in English, for morning conversation all the way to Salas, where menu del dia without meat is negotiated and huge quantities loaded on the table, now including three more pilgrims ... resisted along with excess alcohol, since another two hours climbing is required after lunch ...and accomplished as light rain falls ... a warm welcome at the Albergue, where hospitality is offered in abundance and money not mentioned at all ... evening meal, wine, laundry, bed, breakfast all without a price attached ... a donations box is there on the wall near the exit, but our attention is not drawn to it and everyone is left to work out their contribution, if anything ... maybe some pay nothing, perhaps sitting somewhere in the conscience ever after ... maybe some are so touched they empty their wallets ... who knows? Anyway, David and Celia have been at it for five years and seem very happy ...
Aussie pilgrims Kylie and Peter offer most attention, their work with young people trekking the Outback inspirational ... in the same subset as Outward Bound in DUK and the French association introducing troubled youngsters to the pilgrim life ... morning connections include Carlos, young pilgrim having walked the Frances and very keen on the pilgrim life ... and Hiroki, volunteer hospitalera keen on Findhorn ...
After all the conviviality today's walk returns to blessed solitude, the pace fast enough to cover the ground, slow enough to appreciate Nature ... Campiello, putative destination, comes early and after early, alcohol-free, lunch of Vegan Stew, it is decided to push on 12kms to Pola on the low road option ... high road has no intermediate options and time is tight to get over in daylight and tomorrow looks wet, meaning restricted views ... anyway, that was done in April and the Pola alternative is also beautiful, reaching town before 6pm. .. options open and hotel arrives before Albergue ... luxury of 2 star en-suite with treat for feet, legs and shoulders of a bath with a working plug ... a wait for supper snack since the kitchen opens at 8pm. .. time to catch up here and see a little tv ... Spain playing Montengro at football ... then two Spanish pilgrims from Grado arrive, also moving fast and far ... hotel cheap enough at €25, similar offer on the coast a few days ago was €10 more ... yesterday's priceless experience not to be shared or compared on here ... and supper tonight still an unknown price ... though not Donativo for sure!
Tomorrow maybe 40km to Grandas, let's see ...
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