Muxia to Neano - Cabana

Peaceful night and extra early waking brings breakfast in very early opening cafe ... first bus to Santiago providing pilgrim passengers ... plan today is to mostly skip lengthy coast path and faster for cars inland road for Coruna ... instead choosing The Middle Way, slicing off peninsulas, kissing colittorals, where rivers meet the sea, with bridges, hopefully ... meanwhile on a desk in Brussels is a map showing a European Grand Randonee along the coast from Nordcap in Norway to Cabo San Vicentina in Portugal ... however, as is known in philosophy and literally, littorally, the map is not the territory ... yellow arrow temptation teases awhile after Muxia, addiction soon broken and conversation with locals required to interpret rather loose tourist map and slack map reader ... Antonio in Quintan friendly and helpful, despite slightly morose photo ... soon striding along narrow hard shoulder on quiet asphalt road ... serene, lean walking machine keen for new camino, energy no longer for Santiago after Coruna, but Santander and the boat ... whether walking backwards on the Norte or bus and train assisted unclear, though a hola for Lola in San Vicente de la Barquera required  ...

At Ponte do Porto an interesting church and cafe convenient for coffee and writing whilst imagery is fresh ... on towards Laxe for lunch, route unfolding effortlessly ...fast progress along Middle Way, resisting lanes leading left, pleasures and pains of peninsular perigrination ... until Way becomes perilous with hairpin bends and abandoned for Lighthouse Way ... heavenly all the way to Laxe, not to be rhymed with lax or relax but lash, with a little uh at the end ... waves crash into rocks ... high on the ozone and sunshine ... spring flowers, birdsong ... after a good lunch the 12km or so to Ponteceso seems a breeze before 4 pm ... measures trickier off Santiago overmeasured Ways, but looking like a 40+, easy enough with pre-dawn start ... sorry, no pilgrims ... or Albergues. .. hotel room just before Ponteceso perfect after 11 hours on the road (including long lunch) ... dry and sunny ... a third of the way to Coruna, more or less ... later, lovely pic of Rebeca of the Monte Blanco ... and post sunset from bedroom window ...