Porto to Barcelos

Conditions conspire to create a 55k day ... rain free, breakfast free, mostly flat, firm surfaces and last night's outlier, Barcelos wasn't written or spoken of ... Thomas meeting a friend flying in and aiming at Sao Pedro de Rates, Manuel starting at 6.30 and nursing sore feet the 27km to Vilarinho ... leaving him dressing blisters, out at 6.30, street lights sufficient to see arrows and light arrives before the conurbation ends around Maia ... where an arrowing dispute is evident ... painted arrows pointing right, official posts left ... local cyclists at cafe say they converge after a kilometre or so ... and that Barcelos is now just 40 km ... at 9 am that's surely doable, giving more accommodation options and a mental leap to break the 50 barrier ...

Corrine, from Le Havre, is soon collected and congratulated since she was at the albergue last night ... she took the metro to Maia, something known here, though the suburbs not dodged this time  ... and cities worth experiencing at 5 kph too ... Greater Porto, crossed south to north over two days, takes 5 hours in total ... the Way in worse than the Way out ... a diversion is proposed before Vilarinho, official signs offer the direct way, which is dangerous, and a safer but longer alternative ... an experience not to be repeated as hard shoulder goes missing on blind bends ... a fatality or two needed to persuade officials the dangerous historic route needs pilgrim protection or remove the unsafe option altogether ... at Vilarinho, Corrine pushes on and info is found at a bar ... Sao Pedro de Rates ( the a is short) about 8 km and since it is 11.15, perfect ... Rates for lunch ... though the next safety diversion is sensibly selected, the 8 possibly optimistic and Sao Mamede arrives at 12.30, with Rates still nearly 7 away ... at a bar, two Belgian pilgrims, with trolleys for baggage (sorry no pics) discuss options and bar owner helpfully points out proper posh lunch place nearby ... gladly accepted, an hour to rest the legs, fill the stomach, including the best chocolate mousse tasted for years, a risky red wine, three courses plus coffee €6.50 ... and reset for second half, now maybe 20 to Barcelos ...

At Arcos, a perfect photo op as Leah, law student from Heidelberg rests on the church steps ... she is nearly done, stopping at Rates tonight, while Paul from Amsterdam arrives with a light pack, having sent luggage forward ... he is staying in Arcos, so has finished already .... meanwhile, some of us still have 4 hours to walk, so they are left enjoying the Sun ... Rates soon comes and goes ... a pair of German peregrinas pass on bikes calling Buen Camino, when a chain breaks ... and a bike push to Barcelos ahead ... next come Peter and Barbara, from Port Elisabeth ... nearly at their hotel and knackered after their first day ... then Hannah and Jill from Scotland, college friends and young mums having a break while the fathers take the strain ... they are going to Barcelos and ending the walk at the Spanish border ... lending some energy for the last 10 k into Barcelos, or, to be precise, Barcelinos, before the river and BWay, visited before ... not cheap but welcome luxury after a long and sunny day ... tomorrow normal service resumes, with clouds followed by rain predicted ... 7.30 breakfast, 34 km to Ponte de Lima and the Pousada de Juventude. .. a shorter day ...