Santa Marina to Fisterra

The question of whether Santiago to Fisterra can be walked in two days is answered experientially ... in theory, of course, 89 km is doable in two days, even with lots of upping and downing and research will doubtless discover plenty who did it ... guide books suggest three or four days, but that is for more sensible pilgrims ...

Last night's dorm was full enough and we all enjoyed a serious snorer .... not an average regular kind of snore, but periods of calm, enabling a quick nap before a dramatic episode sounding like our snorer was being throttled ... possibly this was considered in the dorm, but equanimity held here and an early morning assisted the 45 km needed, plus a dearth of pilgrims and attendant photos to delay the day ... leaving Santa Marina before dawn meant a good climb captured the sunrise and the first coffee was only found at Olveiroa, yesterday's target, 13 km on ... a good breakfast of fresh juice,  tostadas with tomato pulp and olive oil, plus coffee, topped up the tank after last night's skipped supper ...

After which one of the best stages on all the Ways unfolds, up past the reservoir, a little hard shouldering to the Muxia junction, taken last time, then off road all the way to Cee and the sea ... two Uruguayan pilgrims briefly energising legs, then three Portuguese. .. all moving slower ... into town passing a Canadian family ... onto Corcubion, less than 15 km from home and a huge salad to scour the bowel, after town Joana, Polish volunteer Hospitalera tempts customers with conversation, offers of tea and news that her fellow host is a professional chef, before more upping and downing to Fisterra around 6 pm ... plenty early at this time of year, though last 2.5 km to the lighthouse barely considered ...

Simone does check in ... only one in dorm so far, bed reserved for three days ... weather set fair for a while ... after that, let's see ...