Nadia appeared, then Pierre, Jacobien and Adam ... interesting to see how groups form so quickly ... a full albergue, with tents in the garden for overflow ... a warm chat with Carlos, not identifying as a pilgrim, suffering with unemployment, a reminder of traditional enmity between Spain and Britain ... long past my time or historical memory ...
Early out again ... before 7 and an hour before a glimmer of dawn ... arrows mostly in place after some searching ... 2 hours on and a little lost on the cliffs, returning to the road, Jose stops, a local since relocating from his birthplace, Bilbao, 7 years ago ... seeking a quieter home for his young family ... he is off fishing, takes me to the bar, where we tussle over who is paying for the coffee and tapas ... he insists ... gives directions for Laredo ... advising the road ... marked mountain way adding distance and time ... quiet enough, with motorway taking serious traffic and after 4 plus hours, just before Liendo, a beautiful, peaceful hermitage and arboretum ... board indicating this was indeed the ancient Way ... early lunch of good gallego bread with honey and banana ... some writing ... just setting off and there is Nadia, starting her picnic ... a catch-up on the morning walk, then off again, onto the road ... at a restaurant, Pierre is eating mussels ... try one, then back on the road for the last hour, over the final pass to Laredo ... Sunday lunch time and it's heaving ... a long beach calls, a treat for the feet, the route to the ferry is barefoot in the water for a kilometre or more ... the small boat, with loud folk music is soon across the river to the still busy but gentler Santona and its municipal albergue on the edge of town ... 10 euros for the bed and breakfast, another 5 for supper, served at 9 pm ... too late for this early to bed early to rise peregrino ... a wander into town to see what may be found between Spanish lunch and supper times ...
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