An early night and a very early morning after a mostly snoreless sleep ... made even earlier by the clock change ... the Korean woman, Yan, who slept on top of me, is up and ready to walk too ... arrows from cathedral clear all the way and the horizon starts to light up behind, two hours solo along, through the suburbs, under the motorway and onto the path beside the N120 all the way ... a more tranquil alternative has been created and marked, but the traditional route is chosen, traffic screened out, first two coffee stops familiar from before ... the second at midday, the end of some suggested stages ... options now another 7km to lunch and possible albergue ... only 24 to Astorga for a long day like last time ... and at Astorga the Via de la Plata, from Seville and Cadiz ... more pilgrims and the possibility of a switch south towards Portugal ...
Other variables include the wish to visit the museum of the Camino in Astorga (which may be closed on a Monday) ... Santiago notional destination, but never the point of it all ... revisiting Ruitelan and the Pequeno Potala ... nostalgia ...
At Hospital de Orbigo the pilgrim menu at Los Angeles has tempted plenty of pilgrims with its average fare, including the fake frites so convenient for the chef ... and the afternoon walk to Astorga is possible in four hours plodding ...intermediate options open ... the nearby Green Albergue intriguing ... the body is not fooled by the clockturnbackery. .. Sun is still retiring earlier each day for a month or so. .. let's see ...
Sure enough, after lunch with wine, the Albergue Verde appears on the way out of town ... open until tomorrow and already looking like a unique experience ... vegetarian supper from the garden promised ... finally some commonsense resistance to the 50 km challenge ...
Mincho started this place with two friends six years ago and it is really beautifully done ... it was the farm where he grew up and he is so happy finding a contemporary use for it ... in winter he is off to India, his spiritual home ... if you find yourself walking between Leon and Astorga, it's on the way out of town ... very special sort of albergue ...
Meanwhile, body and new rucksack are adjusting to each other ... not yet working as one, but getting there ... the cheaper rejected one a gift for someone at the San Francisco Albergue in Leon ... slowly learning to buy the best rather than the bargains ...
Skipping the yoga ... resting in the sun ...vegetarian supper with home grown veg ... mmm
Looking well, Mr Day and yes, in the main, you get what you pay for...
ReplyDelete