A short enough stage, but enough nevertheless ... tough ascents, testing lungs and legs, tougher descents testing joints and tendons ... the cause of ankle knacking last time and care required ... Nadia struggles uphill, lungs burnt by radio therapy ... skips down ... trusting the stones, her familiar work material ...
Between the ups and downs, wonderful wandering with glimpses of sea to the right, mountains to the left, through woods and fields ... time for early coffee at Zumai, another at a remote bar on the hill outside, a little politics with the young owner ... before Deba, tapas and cervesa (being coffeed out), with Nadia, who left early ... both enjoying the solo walking this morning ...
A beautiful leisurely drop into town ... a municipal albergue above the railway station ... tourist information issues a key, takes 5 euros ... closes for lunch from 2-5, which causes later arrivals difficulties ... lots of pilgrims ... including the two lovely English folks, Holly and Chris, heavily laden and diverting to the French route tomorrow ... the ups and downs being rather too steep ... a great connection to be cemented before they go. . .
The volunteer hospitalera, Oni, retired US military officer, logistics specialist, has her training put to the test when the tourist info folks stay closed for the day ...
No sign of Nadia, who maybe pushed on, but Jacobien and Roxanne arrive, having chosen the even steeper ups and downs of the coastal alternative ... tomorrow inland towards Guernica and Bilbao ...
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