After yesterday's deluge and gratefully received rest day, options for today opened up as the clouds cleared ... legs ready for work and Guimaraes the aim ... the place where it all started ... Portugal that is ... and whilst subsequent information reveals the Caminho Real over the mountain, lack of research or arrows means the main road and its narrow hard shoulder ... dangerous, says Luis at the Tasca do Carregal, every year people die in accidents ... more details required to ascertain whether that is foolhardy walkers, cyclists, motorists ... walking attentively facing the oncoming traffic seems safe enough, if not the most pleasant possibility ... engaging locals along the way in the question, none proposed the mountain route (complicated), except cyclist Luis, who knows the alternatives ... and gives directions to escape the deadly road ... his wife Patricia and her mother, Altanina, pass further info on possiblities ... and all allow photos ... their excellent English enabling communication beyond the previous limited attempts at Portuguese ... after an hour a restaurant for an earlier than usual lunch ... still a few hours from Guimaraes. .. musing on the shift from the known routes and their arrows to a deeper connection with Portugal and its very friendly people ... at the restaurant bacalhau is proposed ... typical Portuguese dish ... hmm, yes and dozens of ways to cook it ... strangely the salted cod is imported from colder water ... a local elder comes to the table hoping for a chat in German ... he worked there for 40 years ... no luck ...maybe a returning French speaker next time ... already Patricia fluent in English after four years in Reading ... and fond memories ... as well as concurring with this self-critical Anglo (Brit works better rhythmically, but upsets Scottish friend) on the ravages we visited on the Algarve and the reluctance to embrace local language and culture amongst many compatriots. ..
After lunch, a brief reunion with yellow arrows and some quiet wandering before returning to the main road and a heavy shower ... a bar for shelter and WiFi for research for tonight's bed ... revealing some options ... though it is the weekend ...
And after rain relented, return to thin hard shoulder into the city ... far enough and late enough after three longish breaks ... at the start of the historic centre, S. Mamede Hotel is first from the considered candidates, though not the cheapest ... ready for the welcome hot bath and shower, a rare treat for the feet ... and incoming vid from Athene via Diogo ... linked to APtB FB or check You Tube for Athene ... fascinating stuff and Diogo's pal, Fabio, is in the team developing the work ...
As for this trip, evening possibilities are always different from the morning ones, and since the weather seems to be picking up, many options are open ... including a walkable town south towards the Douro, Amarante, recommended by Luis ... and moving towards Viseu and the Dao ... maybe ... sorry for photo failure in beautiful Braga ... but there are plenty on the internet, of course ... Guimaraes too ... it has a squiggly accent on the second 'a' ... not easy to pronounce!
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