From a chilly municipal albergue in a place with a name but no obvious centre ... over the mountains on a rain day ... to the very beautiful Ponte de Lima, claiming to be the oldest town in Portugal ... its eponymous bridge over its equally eponymous river of strategic importance for centuries, since it first carried the Via Romana XIX from Braga to Astorga ... indeed the old road pops up all the way along the Camino Portugues ...
Skipping breakfast, the first stop comes after 2 hours and off route ... and shortly after, having rejoined the arrows, a second stop to chat with Janneke, from Holland, walking to Santiago ... maybe as far as the Albergue Estrada Romana today ... a brief break in the clouds and rain, with added hail, and some Sun to warm us ... further on, along a woodland trail, Camila appears ... her first sight of a strange man approaching produces a broad smile ... this young Italian, Santiago bound, has something special about her ... she left Ponte de Lima late to avoid the rain ... an hour on and it starts again ... though maybe not where she is ... the feet are soaked now, not from shoe failure, it's getting in via the socks ...
Brief research has identified a local albergue without heating and a Pousada de Juventude, which usually have it ... first stop in town, at 1245, before crossing the bridge, is a pilgrim lunch for a great value €6 ... then over to the main part of town and along the plane tree avenue to the very modern youth hostel ... €8 with pilgrim discount ... heating and breakfast included ... WiFi more complicated, but that can be found in any bar nearby ...
Meanwhile, musing on research, planning and even walker satnav. .. the odd slip-up is a small price to pay for the uncertainty ... failing to bring a guide book or map was not a perverse decision, it just didn't occur ... there is gronze.com the day before and info from other pilgrims, hospitaleros, bar folks and locals of course, always happy to put you right ... indeed a couple in a car this morning stopped to check that Ponte de Lima was indeed intended and not the more usual Santiago ...
Having dried out, it's off to explore the town ... find WiFi for your update at the library ... some info from very friendly tourist folks on Fatima route ... still rather vague, but blue arrows to follow anyway ... fruity supper at the warm hostel and drier tomorrow ... hopefully ...
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