Four for supper, friendly pilgrims failing to find a common language ... except Dietmar and Erwin ... Marianna with Italian and Milo mostly speaking canine, composed of imploring other guests to feed him ... only one in the 22 bed dormitory which made the €10 a bargain and a sound night's sleep ... awaiting the 7.30 breakfast meant a late start, but eager legs suggest a long day, if we get cracking ... non-stop to Rabanal, except a photo of possible albergue and removing too warm clothing ... after coffee and rested legs it's still only 11 am and Ponferrada is possible ... let's see ...
Sitting post-prandially outside the Casa del Peregrinos in El Acebo as the Camino economy offers more and more options, the third glass of wine has ruled out the Ponferrada craziness ... the other Casa del Peregrinos previously advertised is replaced since Ana, who stole my heart with her kindness two years ago, is now three kilometres away with her own restaurant ... and albergue ... and well rested, fed and watered or rather, wined, the legs surely have that left, if not the 15 required for Ponferrada .... which in any case is a big city, with big city energy and a big municipal albergue, albeit beautifully organised ... two years ago ...
Meanwhile, after Rabanal, an encounter with Carlos, from Madrid via Barcelona and speaking excellent English ... falling into his pace and enjoying philosophical conversation, with references to K and TNH with whom he is familiar ... this idea that humanity's next evolutionary leap may be to resonate together at finer frequencies and become a superorganism .... onwards as Carlos takes a rest ... more progress, past the famous iron cross where the pious place a stone ... maybe representing a sin or burden ... plenty there on this public holiday, though it's not resonating here ... on again and alongside Felix, Swiss, from Zurich, speaking excellent English, with a deep and moving story about falling into depression, for no obvious reason ... declining chemical intervention, and insurance company insisting on it as a requirement for continuing support, he struggled on ... now he is finding the Camino to be an answer ... and loving the stories of surrender and this early blessing, knowing that something was crazy in the world ... and it wasn't me ... a few years ago, he said, I would have disagreed, now I know you're right ... the parallel universe of the Camino shows what we can be ... the mainstream normality to which we are invited, conditioned, is not tolerable ... and since an infinite number of possible worlds are available, why settle for one so banal, violent, cruel ...? At El Acebo, Felix, having booked his hotel in Molinaseca, 10 km on, eats one course and heads off ... while the blogger, under pressure from the editor for more pilgrim stories, asks for a photo from Karen and Megan, mother and daughter from USA via Korean heritage ... more philosophy and relaxing in good company before heading off to find Ana ... and trying to pay the bill, discover that Felix has paid ... touching ... the magic of the Camino ...
Ana, pictured with Paco, her lucky husband, is at her restaurant and insists on taking her car back to the Albergue, passed on the way into the village ... Isa, from Ponferrada, just 12 km away, via Colombia, is booking pilgrims in ... two Brazilian blokes, a Lithuanian and a French woman, two more not yet identified ... no wifi here, so it's off to the bar after a very good day's walk, some wonderful encounters ... and slightly weird too, which is nice ...
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