A wonderful walk ... 40 km almost all off road ... firm sand surfaces appreciated by feet, joints and thighs in particular ... the asphalt jars ... the surrounding nature, mostly cork oak forests, some interloping eucalyptus, occasional arable fields ... and a big lake behind the dam outside Cercal .... but before all that ...
Last night was a great exercise in equanimity. .. conditions set up by the choice of a rather basic hotel ... clean, with a bed in a single room, shared bathrooms not a problem ... en suite rooms a modern luxury and more than enough ... patchy internet ... no heating ... no plug for tablet charging .research suggesting a long stage needed to find a bed ... earlier FB posting pointing out pre-industrial winter sleeping habits often involved early bed times, to conserve coal and candles ... a period of deep sleep, when the body goes on automatic, repairing as necessary, without conscious or sub-conscious thought interfering ... a period of wakefulness, used to maybe chat with bedroom companions, or reflect on the events of the day ... another period of lighter sleep, for dreaming ... time for the sub-conscious to come out to play .... a National Holiday today, meaning late night fun last night ... and so, having exhausted the delights of Santiago, eaten a bread, cheese and tomato supper, it was very early to bed and soon warmed up and asleep ... then the disco started in the restaurant below ... using the sleepless time to read the guide book, reflect and plan ... until sometime well after midnight silence returned and dreamtime with it ... then an early start, soaked oats for fuel, a strong coffee to spark the engine and off on the rehearsed route in a misty dawn, cutting out the interesting ascent to the castle and descent to the route proper ... for four hours to Vale Seco without stopping, or cafe at which to do so ...high, thin cloud and a wan sun all day ... spirits high, energy also and after a coffee and some cakes at this putative first stage end, albeit without a rentable bed in sight, 18 km was easily done before midday and Cercal within reach before dark ... actually around 4 pm on easy tracks.... well signed the whole way, with positive and negative signs ... a nice metaphor for life in general ... no other walkers to be seen ... the first bed place offers an apartment for €40, the next a comfy, warm, en suite room with heater, plug, good WiFi for €20 ...which is where, dear reader, after a supper of bread, cheese and tomato plus fruit, biscuits and chocolate, your update for today is being prepared ... tomorrow, mountains and two stages combined perhaps too much ... anyway, an early start always allows more options ...
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