... with the K tribe ...

Five hours on a train to Durham and plenty of time to reflect on two full days at the Krishnamurti Centre ... WiFi curtailed to support peaceful ambience ... Cross Country Trains offer connection, at a price ... maybe later ... meanwhile, some writing, also abandoned since the ferry ... adjacent seat vacant until Oxford ... let's see how that turns out ...

Sunday taxi arrived just in time for warm welcome from Andrea ... no-one else about ... early to bed and not very early to rise the regime ... though no rules or structure, apart from meal times and requests to desist from smoking, drinking alcohol, playing music, radios ... books and films of the teachings available in the library ... the Centre simply beautiful, grounds and especially the Grove in full bloom ... surrounding bluebell woods full of colour and the elusive perfume in the dappled sunshine ...

Monday breakfast time offered first philosophers from the K tribe and a walk to the woods, pictured by a passing walker ... plenty to learn from fellow ramblers ... and an observation that a full day afloat from Santander to Portsmouth, boat full of fellow Brits, found no matching frequencies ... one brief interaction in a food queue, otherwise nothing ... maybe by mutual agreement, though chats with random strangers normally not unknown ... on the pilgrim trails the rucksack invites a cheery Hola, as common language discovered and conversation, brief or longer, often ensues ... being at Brockwood infers frequencies mostly on same wavelength and frequently resonating and matching, new information shared, deepening understanding (or common delusions) ...

Monday afternoon is for a second wander in the warm sunshine ... Shiraya, who helped with the booking and here in a staff role after time as a voluntary helper and next door neighbour during work week last year sharing ideas and converging on Place to Be concept ... timing to be seen, but cooperation and a visit strongly in the probability field ...

Tina, a student at the school, taking advantage of their offer of a retreat at the Centre, shares some insights, youthful energy and inspiration for the old generation ... from China, encouraged by her aunt who knows the teachings, she arrived at the school aged 14, free from fear, she says ... such a gift in a world where fear is promoted daily through mass media ...

Sunset in the Grove shared with Dusicka, from Slovenia, also here as a guest helper last time ... busy translating the films for subtitling ... an invitation to Slovenia ...

Tuesday morning's walk to West Meon is with Bhairavi, here from Toulouse via India, with her daughter, a prospective student at the school ... the afternoon bluebell walk shared with Dusicka and Mariella ... after all the solitary walking, there is company all the time ... and walking pace and distance more like resting ... not to mention a lack of rain ...

And so to the train, a walk to the stop with Shiraya, bus on time and comfortably at the station with 15 minutes to spare ... time for a random chat on the subject of death, the Samaritans poster at the end of the platform reminding the desperate that someone is ready to listen ...

As for Tribe, the concept is challenged ... no easy rides here, they challenge everything. .. some even daring to challenge the teachings ... itself, of course, quite in line with teaching about not accepting authority without question ...

And the mystery train neighbour? No sign, no neighbour to bother, plenty of space to spread out ... until Sheffield, when Chris, a neighbour from Weardale gets on and chats until York ... a journey through England, avoiding London, increasingly seen as a City State, along with other huge cities ... national boundaries in question anyway, since in the economic and therefore ultimate political power sphere, corporations operate globally ...

Two buses from Durham and time for some shopping for supper and the little cottage in Stanhope has survived the winter, no sign or smell of damp, just as it was left three months ago ... grass has grown and likely to be replaced with food plants ... bluebells have appeared and other species ... feeling rather like home ... for now ...

To Brockwood ...

A good night's sleep in the rather dear cabin ... 4 beds for one person rather excessive and pilgrim rate for sharing would help ... though it's not a market of much interest to Brittany Ferries, originally set up by a farmers' cooperative to export to UK ... now catering for tourists with cars and freight on lorries, not to mention the hordes of Brit expats in France, Spain and Portugal ... foot passengers unusual on this boat, which has no reclining chair option ... just the one today, hoping for a speedy exit to arrive at Brockwood before lock up at 9 pm ... though emergency alternative in place ...

The sea route home preferred to flying, which seems too fast somehow ... a perfect sailing day, sunny and smooth ... on board entertainment includes an enthusiastic presentation on whales and dolphins ... from Orca, wildlife charity based in Portsmouth ... interrupted amusingly by a tannoy announcement about nail and other treatments, in English, Spanish and French ... apologies offered by Orca presenter, who explains about the multilingual nature of the ship, with no trace of irony as the talk continues only in English ... still, interesting enough and preferable to earlier television programme from British Bullshit Corporation interviewing politicos with their predictable patter, polarised positions defended, neither offering anything very useful ...

Kit review suggests: Osprey rucksack, lighter than Deuter because without frame, but designed to allow air flow; Cape brighter colour, all black outfit not ideal for walking hard shoulder in rain; shoes, Scarpas fine, though boots needed if walking Primitivo in February; otherwise fine ... two changes of underclothes could be reduced to one, sleeping bags reduced to one silk liner and rely on blankets; however if hammock to increase options outside, warmer bag needed; technology ... maybe smarter phone to improve bed finding and route finding ... though aware of downsides ...

Anyway, all that's for another time, meanwhile a few days at the Krishnamurti Centre before a train to Durham on Wednesday and two buses to Stanhope ... see how the deserted cottage has fared over the rather harsh winter ...

And next month, a special visitor, reconnecting from the days on the Portugues, Santiago, Fisterra ...

Santander to the sea ...

Simplicity, one of the three treasures of the Tao, is seriously challenged in this transition from pilgrim in Iberia to whatever in Stanhope. .. wandering around for three months, two known Caminos into Santiago plus the final circular route via Fisterra, Muxia, Coruna, Betanzos and the Ingles, resting between in Tavira ... all seemed simplicity, embracing the challenges step by step ... going inside deeply in solitude, practising interbeing for 8 great days ... solitude, it seems, an essential but temporary stage in this human incarnation ... leading to experience of the interconnectedness of everything eventually, then up a level to the joys of sharing time and space with another ... and others at La Espiral of love ... an encounter at the Cathedral, just after writing this, with a Brazilian couple, together more than 40 years, thinking of walking the Way, or part of one ... resisting solitude and opening an idea that couples living together so long may be considered a superorganism ... a so-called individual anyway also a superorganism of cooperating cells and alien entities working symbiotically ... a sense of self, as seen and mentioned before, illusory ...

Patience, the treasure most challenging, is tested as the logistics of boats, connections to the next bed, some days with the K folk, all prove tricky ... equanimity, not named as a treasure, but linked to patience perhaps, is sustained ... though tomorrow is another day ... boat booked, taxi at Portsmouth also ...

Australian family on the Norte at the Pension last night raised questions about authentic pilgrimming ... this time in the context of full Albergues ... bus assisted early arrival seen as cheating ... the numbers on the Ways are picking up now May is under way ... plenty passed going the other way yesterday ... confirming the decision to walk from February ... lots of rain, but plenty of space to stay ... numbers increase every year ... bed spaces increase too as private albergues spot the opportunity, albeit seasonally ...

Which takes us back to the ongoing question of what it is to be a pilgrim ... Simplicity, Patience and Compassion are part of it for sure, and unpacking the details, embedding the lessons, the opportunity ... Compassion, the other treasure, comes into play, perhaps, when invited to judge others on the Ways ... pilgrims, turigrinos, hospitaleros , bar and restaurant folks ... discernment and judgement being closely related, but not the same ... and as observed before, you really can't cheat your own Camino, a part of us knows we will do it better next time the lesson arises ... listening to listen, resisting glib advice, we help each other examine the learning ...

And since there is all day to explore this beautiful city and the Sun is shining, a wanton wander around the peninsula, no longer cutting them off to save time and distance, but embracing their power ... sharing the paths with locals and tourists on Saturday exercise and relaxation ... reaching rather upmarket parts, where resto bar appears less than delighted to see the rucksack ... or maybe the plugging in of the charger to keep communication alive ... as for simplicity, the coffee is over milky and over priced, the decor busy and arty farty ... simplicity gone missing again ... nearby a hungry beggar gratefully accepts a banana, regretfully declines a cake, since he doesn't ingest sugar ...

Strolling back to the ferry port, a vegan restaurant appears in time for wonderful menu del dia ...simplifying the challenges of corpse dodging ... not there is any judgement on chosen diet, of course ... as a "vague 'un" flexibility is the key, especially to surviving along the Caminos. .. Marianne, running the restaurant, previously looked after the pilgrims at the Albergue in Serdio, near San Vicente de la Barquera and loved it .. still has the conch shell ...

Ready for a night and a day afloat. .. sea calm enough for Bay of Biscay ...

Santillana to Santander

Since the road is known, a hard shoulder short cut sets up Santander for today and a strange route marking at Mogros Station suggests taking the train a couple of stops to avoid a perilous stretch of road ... a longer route possible, but not desired ... and once on the train, pilgrim sensitivities are suspended and the final 15kms are covered in comfort ... an early lunch and some research uncovers a bed for the night, a boat for tomorrow and some questions about the consequent late arrival in Portsmouth ... left to ripen, since that issue is for Sunday evening ...

Tomorrow mooching around Santander, maybe some touristic activity ... taking a while to change roles after all the pilgrimming ...

Comillas to Santillana

Hotel comfy enough, though breakfast very late for pilgrimming ... still, it's included in the price and Santillana is easy enough, Cobreces easier still ... plenty of options with preferred sailing from Santander on Monday ... early wander produces some sunrise images, including lesser known Gaudiness ... Comillas beautiful and internet full of photos if you want more ... Andy and Natalie share some philosophy and decline photo, not for usual reasons of shyness or fear of losing part of their soul, but concern about recent data pillaging from FB ... hmm, not sure about that, or the perfectly reasonable suspicion that we are simply doing the work of security agencies by sharing our images, ideas, friends and other details ... imagining that social media is a social service in a capitalist world maybe naive. .. if we are using it for free, then it is also using us ...

Yesterday's reference to Camino Angels is further reflected upon ... the day before Andrew said he had recently heard the term and recognised the phenomenon. .. today's Angel appears on the track just about to be missed outside town, posing as a pilgrim ... later, at another junction unclear to backward walking pilgrims, Henry appears to point to the one true path ... appropriately enough, since he is a confirmed Catholic, with rosary, crucifix and conch, as well as mobile device with each step of the Way online ... Californian, studying religion in Washington, he smiles kindly at the heresies proposed in a brief exchange ... next year he's studying philosophy, who knows how that may turn out?

Woodland route very peaceful and easy enough, though Cobreces somehow bypassed in favour of earlyish menu del dia a few kms on and just 12 from Santillana ... a risky red wine seems reasonable and ambience authentic and relaxed ... after which arrows are missed or mistaken, including before lunch, which was off route ... sometimes stepping off the path pays off ... Santillana is hard to miss though, with sea to the left and main roads to the right ... and after some upping and downing it's into town by 4.30 ... long enough for 22 km ... a brief chat with friendly German couple from supper last night, car borne tourists enjoying the afternoon Sun ... to tourist info, where the Convent Albergue is identified as favourite ... two beds to each nun's cell, shared bathrooms for €12 ...  breakfast optional at €3.50 ...

Peter and Kia, from Germany, started their Way in Santander and made the 37 km today ... no ambitions for that ... halfway will be fine tomorrow, but first the pilgrim blessing ... this is a convent after all ...

Oviedo to Comillas by bus and foot

This morning's early rain confirmed the decision to postpone the Primitivo for a while and yesterday's wander round town sated any desire for further sightseeing ... so, the 8.45 bus to San Vicente de la Barquera it is ... scenic route through mountains, glimpses of the sea, Camino arrows and after two hours, at the bus station in San Vicente, Camino Angel, Luisa, is sitting at the cafe having a drink ... calls "peregrino" for lack of other name ... blog recalls her name though and she is delighted ... though sad, since the Albergue at which we both worked has closed, for reasons beyond the limits of Spanish comprehension ... a lesson in Impermanence and Equanimity ... plenty of time for a couple of hours walking the easy and beautiful coast road to Comillas ... with warm embraces it's off towards Santander, now quite close ... two or three days of easy walking ...

Comillas is expensive and the excellent menu del dia is 50% more than Oviedo and accommodation likewise, except the €5 Albergue, curiously not calling ... Andy, from Yorkshire and Natalie from Germany have spotted an alternative ... they are sharing, the solo traveller pays €40, including breakfast, the owner, Gilberto, simpatico, this pilgrim morphing into tourist mode ... plenty to see in this very quaint town and Santillana, tomorrow's short walk, even quainter. ..

La Caridad to Oviedo, by foot and train

Last night's Albergue full of Santiago bound pilgrims and news from James, from Ireland, that lots of Spanish pilgrims are taking advantage of today's public holiday (Happy May Day dear readers, or comrades if you prefer) ... making a 5 day weekend for a stage of the Norte ... indeed at early breakfast stop at Las Camelias 30 or so pilgrims from Avila are preparing for Ribadeo, while another 60 from the group headed home yesterday ... making quite a group, table companion wistfully noting the joys of the solitary Way ... meanwhile the crammed Albergue was surprisingly quiet, barely a snore to be heard and a deep sleep until 7.15, by which time the single men's toilet was in great demand and ablutions postponed until the Camelias ...

The day is fine for walking, but the mind has gone to San Vicente and backwards walking not appealing ... nor hard shouldering more than necessary ... train from Navia known from before and station finds Andrew from Tasmania skipping a few kms to La Caridad before walking to Ribadeo ... the Gijon train is a couple of hours later, so after a good chat he heads off on the train. .. bar at bus station nearby offers refreshment and bus advice (public holiday making bus option a little later) and walking postponed in favour of writing, relaxing and eating ... food intake sometimes neglected on long stages ...

Train runs sedately along coast, though tunnels, touching the Camino along the way, before swinging south to Oviedo, where a risky and unnecessary 5 minutes is offered to change trains for San Vicente. .. 3 hours is enough training today, Oviedo at 3.30 perfect for lunch, hotel at same location perfect for bed, including en suite bathroom, for €28 ...7th floor with excellent view ...station nearby for the morning ... bus station also, ALSA offering early, midday, evening departures ... let's see what the morning brings, maybe some city sightseeing first ...

Oviedo, of course, is the start of the Primitivo, signs and shells found by Cathedral ... though that's for another time ...