Hospital to Murias ...

A sunny stroll on the last day of October ... another short day ... plenty of time for a late start and some dawdling along the way ...

But first, last night's supper was preceded by the resident family regaling us with gracious song ... 3 delicious courses, Greg failing to transform the water into wine and experiencing a rare dry day as he and Ed carouse their way along the Way, playing the Irish stereotype and advising this drier and longer walking pilgrim to take it easy ... which advice is accepted these last two days and maybe more to come ... after the food Mincho entertains us with an extended gag about the present moment ...breakfast tomorrow, if there is breakfast ... or tomorrow ... is self-service ... you may find it laid out on the table any time you want it ... or maybe not ... and if you wake up, and there is breakfast, the route is through the back gate, left, right, left, right, straight on ...and follow the arrows ... if you do wake up and find breakfast, feel free to make a donation for supper and breakfast ... whatever you feel ... take some money if you feel that, but do it with love ... after the philosophy, Bea borrows a guitar and sings ... explaining a conversion experience she says she was given the gift and the songs and told to share them ...she sang like an angel ... a pure voice, reminiscent of Joan Baez .... a magical moment in a magical place ...

Starting briskly, two consecutive villages and their bars come too soon ... until an Anonymous Pilgrim offers a discreet seat on which to strip to shorts and t shirt ... mind is focused on Astorga and the camp just before, famous for David, who so impressed Neil, my sceptical friend, on his Camino two years ago ... today taken care of by Luca in David's absence in Barcelona on family business ... and Jem the poet from two days ago turns up to continue the conversation ... and a personal recitation of his latest work ... then solo into the city, declining the €5 hostel on the way in, wandering through the streets busy on market day ... bumping into some of the crew from the Albergue Verde, who suggest one on the route out ... somehow missed ... a light lunch and on towards a suggested one kilometre offer ... closed ... the short day is getting longer and research is lacking ... on hopefully another 4 km to Murias which offers three ... including the small, tranquil and very beautiful Albergue Las Aguedas ... with vegetarian supper ... 

Leon to Hospital de Orbigo ...

An early night and a very early morning after a mostly snoreless sleep ... made even earlier by the clock change ... the Korean woman, Yan, who slept on top of me, is up and ready to walk too ... arrows from cathedral clear all the way and the horizon starts to light up behind, two hours solo along, through the suburbs, under the motorway and onto the path beside the N120 all the way ... a more tranquil alternative has been created and marked, but the traditional route is chosen, traffic screened out, first two coffee stops familiar from before ... the second at midday, the end of some suggested stages ... options now another 7km to lunch and possible albergue ... only 24 to Astorga for a long day like last time ... and at Astorga the Via de la Plata, from Seville and Cadiz ... more pilgrims and the possibility of a switch south towards Portugal ...

Other variables include the wish to visit the museum of the Camino in Astorga (which may be closed on a Monday) ... Santiago notional destination, but never the point of it all ... revisiting Ruitelan and the Pequeno Potala ... nostalgia ...

At Hospital de Orbigo the pilgrim menu at Los Angeles has tempted plenty of pilgrims with its average fare, including the fake frites so convenient for the chef ... and the afternoon walk to Astorga is possible in four hours plodding ...intermediate options open ... the nearby Green Albergue intriguing ... the body is not fooled by the clockturnbackery. .. Sun is still retiring earlier each day for a month or so. .. let's see ...

Sure enough, after lunch with wine, the Albergue Verde appears on the way out of town ... open until tomorrow and already looking like a unique experience ... vegetarian supper from the garden promised ... finally some commonsense resistance to the 50 km challenge ...

Mincho started this place with two friends six years ago and it is really beautifully done ... it was the farm where he grew up and he is so happy finding a contemporary use for it ... in winter he is off to India, his spiritual home ... if you find yourself walking between Leon and Astorga, it's on the way out of town ... very special sort of albergue ...

Meanwhile, body and new rucksack are adjusting to each other ... not yet working as one, but getting there ... the cheaper rejected one a gift for someone at the San Francisco Albergue in Leon ... slowly learning to buy the best rather than the bargains ...

Skipping the yoga ... resting in the sun ...vegetarian supper with home grown veg ... mmm

Mansilla to Leon ...

After yesterday's effort, the top bunk was rewarded with an epic snorer beneath ... a test for equanimity, even some sleep ... he was still snoring as an early day began ... a coffee and croissant breakfast at last evening's cafe Alonso ... some chat with Jem, poet pilgrim from Camberley, who shared the snoring room .... thundernose he said ... that's how he makes a living on poetry tours across Canada ... plenty of material for next year then ... not really, there's an American poet using the Camino as a subject ... hmmm, yet another world ... in a moment of self-awareness Jem confesses to considering a cheat today ... bus to Leon ... as if you could cheat your own Camino ...

The route is clear enough in the dark, mostly separated from main road ... passing earlier pilgrims, after an hour a meeting with a pair resonating almost perfectly ... Blu and Pace ... neither keen to identify with nationality ... she is from Brazil, he from England ... both having created their names ... living free, seeking community ... creating the more beautiful world by living it ... with land already in central Portugal, but drawn now to Galicia, Asturias ... the uninteresting route through suburbs and into Leon, Leon flew by ... conversation flowing and before the centre, a farewell beer, exchanging photos, contact details (www.blupace.com), before they headed for their accommodation  ... staying a few days ... and this light-weight walker, having crossed the Picos considering the next weight reduction to be the rucksack itself, spotted a likely shop ... which had no bags .. . a local bloke suggested an alternative nearby ... new, blue, light bag bought, the route leads to the €10 albergue, hopefully dodging the mobile party ... and the snorer ... two Catalans, two Germans, a Korean and this Brit fill the room ... as for snoring, you will have to await reports, but thundernose is not here ... hooray!

Off for the menu del dia, the amazing cathedral, more Gaudiness ... a tourist day in Leon, Leon ... warm sunshine, heaving with people ... a short and uplifting walk to arrive here ... tomorrow onwards, though not all the way to Astorga, which was the epic madness from the last time ...

Cistierna to Mansilla de las Mulas ...

Having planted the seed, much of this morning's shortish walk was spent musing on tricking the mind and body with two shortish walks with a longish lunch between ... the route simple enough, on the plain, mountains left behind, main road on the other side of the river, Camino following local road, counting down the kilometres, with occasional excursions ... no bars to delay the trip ... woods ... fields full of maize and sunflowers ready for harvest ... lunch stop out of Gradefes, which has a pilgrim albergue, but no restaurant ... a long day or two short ones ... time to find some pilgrims. ..

And so, an epic journey to rejoin the French Way ends just before 8pm and 46 km, in the very busy albergue ... pilgrims all over the place ... beware what you ask for ... the afternoon a mental exercise, since the body was rested and fuelled ... more back road, through fields, plodding on in the warm sunshine for nearly five hours ... and having found a top bunk and showered it's off out to a quiet bar with attached pasteleria to send off today's meagre offering ... coming down after the mountains, adjusting to plains energy. .. and re-engaging with pilgrims ... tomorrow to Leon ... maybe ...

Riano to Cistierna ...

Eduardo arrives at 8 to serve breakfast ... two shots of strong coffee, toast and jam ... good wishes and a photo for you ... another person taking care of pilgrims as well as other tourists ... many bicycling Brits he says ... over from Santander .. . another free ad for a great value bed and lunch ... breakfast, as in most of Spain, perhaps in need of attention for the active Brit market ...

Mist rising off the reservoir lingers all the way to the dam, 2 hours on ... hard shoulder plodding, headtorch, a gift from Mikhail, at the ready to alert oncoming drivers ... space between white line and crash barrier is mine ... quite adequate, though being two dimensional the line is sometimes transgressed ... the barrier, though 3 dimensional, also shows signs of wandering drivers  ... floral tributes too ... Eduardo said be careful ... more than once ... ears as useful as eyes to receive incoming data ... focus full attention on oncoming driver ... all fine and good progress to the dam, with only brief relief at Horcados ... then a wonderful stretch. ... picking up the Calzada Romana, the ancient Way, on the other side of the river from the road and centuries apart ... the energy of the stones palpable. .. the track marked as Camino Vadiniense, Camino Real and GR1 the ancient Way to Finisterre for a while, until it heads west at Las Salas ... seeing almost nobody ... the track not bothering to divert to bars ... on we go, the traffic on its side, the Esla, released from its lakely lethargy, resuming riverly flowing down, round stubborn outcrops, wearing the rocks remorselessly, the ancient track with steady gradients, following the contours through autumn woods dappled with sunlight ... at 4 hours, a rest, strip off to shorts and t shirt, a doughnut from the pack, and on ... a suicidal meeting of dimensions, road and track swapping sides on a blind bend ... back to sanity ... good progress, fuelled by cheese and chocolate, thoughts of late lunch menu del dia incentivising ... into Cistierna at 4 ... and just in time ... filling late lunch sufficient for the day ... some fruit later ... the Theravadan tradition offers breakfast and lunch only ... medicinal food is allowed later ... and since Theravadans living in cooler climates might need more calories, the abbot at Harnham in Northumberland prescribes cheese and chocolate as medicine ... why not?

There is a pilgrim albergue here, but suspecting no pilgrims or easily opened albergue, enjoying some simple luxuries before the mainstream route at Mansilla the day after tomorrow, and wanting good WiFi to connect with Emily for her birthday tomorrow ... and frankly being tired after a long walk, it's the very comfortable €30 Hostal Cruce ... breakfast reports to come, but plans afoot to soak some oats in juice  ready for the morning ... an easier day proposed ... 23 km leaving another 23 to the French Way next day ... of course 46 is doable ... hmmm

Portilla to Riano ...

The luxury albergue at Portilla provided a comfortable sleep, adequate lunch, meagre breakfast ... left in lobby overnight, since Alejandro seems to be coping single handed and skips early morning duties ... good enough, substance maybe sacrificed for style somewhat ... €39 swallows most of the cash, leaving supper to cheese and chocolate ... a few coins for the halfway coffee before cash points in Riano ... which arrives after a few interesting hours along the arrowless road, main Potes to Mansilla route having joined at Portilla ... early diversionary adventure over a footbridge to a promising path off the asphalt so disliked by Nils and other pilgrims for its unforgiving surface, proximity to traffic and insidious camber ... ends with a precipitous ascent past low overhanging branches and an uncharacteristic retreat ... giving Sun a chance to illuminate the road, albeit indirectly, since this steep-sided valley is heading south and he is late rising in the east ...

After two promising villages, with three arrows indicating off road alternative, no bar appears ... at the third there is one ... closed ... a little early says a local, though the sun is up and it is gone 11 am ... at the fourth a rather morose owner serves coffee and WiFi ... recklessly attempting to elicit a smile, a solo with a dash of local firewater is requested ... which works ... let's hope €3.60 is enough !

Deogracias agrees to a photo, without the smile ... and the last coins are put on the counter ... no change required, though there is some ... a sincere farewell, resisting a clumsy pun on his name ... his eyes show sadness and compassion and the smiles were real enough ... feels good to go to Riano with zero cash ... the card will hopefully replenish reserves ...

The handsome town comes soon enough, back on the main road ... newly constructed in 1985 to replace the original, drowned by the reservoir ... itself sitting beautifully in the landscape ... the engineers providing water for the thirsty plain and its big city, Leon ...

Begòňa is taking care of the restaurant and hostel and puts her heart and soul into the job ... delighted when two random English folks, Ben and Sian from Wimbledon are enticed to the table with their coffees for some walker chat ... also retired, their trip via Bilbao and hire car has included Fuente De yesterday, walking the Picos. .. on to Leon this evening  ... wonderful menu del dia with added chips ... delicious tart with chocolate ...a photo from Begona, who puts on a clean pinny for the occasion ... now to check the scenery and the clothes drying on a bench in the sun ... whilst another bench is signposted the Most Beautiful Bench of Leon ... referring to the view, not the bench, of course ...

Tomorrow suggests a longish 37 km to Cistierna in warm sunshine ... intermediate possibilities available ... legs, feet, energy all fine and ready for a 8 hour walk ... steadily down towards the plain ...

Espinama to Portilla de la Reina ...

The Albergue Briz, with its very friendly Jose and Veronica, deserves a special mention in the free ad section of the blog ... if you fancy a good value walking holiday, this is the place to go ... boat to Santander, then walk or bus to Potes. .. hire car helpful ... or bring your own ...

Jose serves a big breakfast, with enough for the pack ...Portilla being the next feeding station, 7 hours over the mountains ... then off into drizzly pre-dawn, soon giving way to dry high cloud ... following yellow arrows all the way, the main 3D support today, since the valley road gives up at Fuente De and map reading skills being poor, plus absence of map critical, let's see where pilgrims past have been ... in Islam they say, first tether your camel, then trust the Lord ... already priorities and naming ... and camels ... heading up the mountain with a heart full of confidence, maybe Just Trust, All is Well, is better ... and don't be stupid ...

The first few kilometres heads straight for a very big wall ... impressive ... in Switzerland they would call in the engineers and start boring ... possibly the reason for the national stereotype, though experience here suggests otherwise: Carl Jung, one of the most interesting people I never met; Corrine, elf and lover from Lausanne, via Findhorn; Bernard met at Brockwood and with an invitation to his new K inspired place in the Alps www.riversong.ch ; the fascinating Anne ... pronounced Anna by her German speaking father ...  as for the engineer stereotype, dear friend Penny defies that, first by being female, then by pitching in with the integrated transport project, and afterwards as a founding member of a renewable energy company ...

At Fuente De, the engineers boldly sent a cable car up the wall ... which doesn't help this morning because it's not open and in any case lands on the wrong side for Leon ... 

The arrows are clear enough and lead to a track suitable in gradient and surface for four wheel drive cars and off-road bikes, though none are seen today ... perfect for a pilgrim with a high and long walk ahead ... which makes for one of those days ... solitude, altitude, some sun, awe inspiring views ... and spontaneous laughter bursting out ... not least at the summit, when, after an early and brief refreshment break, the track continues on, descending gently round the contours, revealing new views at every turn ... out of Cantabria now ... still following arrows, though fewer, until we meet the local road, 10 km from Portilla ... a steady 2 hours with hardly any traffic ... and a slightly posher albergue, as previously proposed ... a bed without another above it ... sheets, towels. .. simple luxuries ... a menu del dia and info that the ski season is expected soon ... good timing ... though reports of snow imagined from San Vicente some days ago were premature ... quite Spring- like up here, with what look like Spring flowers come 6 months too soon ... i.d and corrections welcome!

Human companions between Jose at Espinama and Alejandro here in Portilla absent ... canine ones in the shape of large sheepdogs appear ... the first time in the early dawn, warning me off, though not aggressively. .. the second in the afternoon sun quite friendly, albeit focused on their task ... the last, Sua, at the albergue ... very friendly ... on the track after Fuente De, a cow with the first signs of her calf ... a leg sticking out ... she didn't seem distressed ... and on the top, a herd of very shy grazing deer take off into the distance  ... wonderful ...

Tomorrow a short 20km to Riano ... the n is like nya. ..

Potes to Espinama

19 km on the road, following the River Deva upstream ... the pilgrim path is 6 or 7 further, mostly well marked with the familiar yellow arrow, lifting us up away from the cars, along mountain tracks, through pretty villages. ... down again, then steeply up and finally the famous Mogrovejo with evidence of tourist development, friendly dogs and a cafe with wifi ... closed ... they have gone to the market at Potes. . .

Before that, reflection on yesterday's commentary on the albergue, which provided comfortable accommodation for two nights at a nominal €5 a night ... some gratitude required to balance the critique ... micro-wave breakfast porridge notwithstanding ... Thank You!

Dropping back to the quiet road, ascending more gradually, more reflection ... on high roads and low roads ... being by nature rather lazy, the temptation is to stick with the cars and the river ... the views reward the effort ... balance perhaps the key ... let's see ... anyway, the hostel by the road comes soon enough at the halfway mark, 3 hours into the walk ...

The next path up is almost perfect ... not too steep ... through woodland with amazing autumnal views ... a track for farmers grazing cows ... then into Trevino ... a rest next to its 17th century locked church ... and at 5.5 km to Espinama by road, the arrows propose upping again ... the info is not entirely clear, but a finger post offering 4 hours diversion is not amusing at this stage, so it's on the hard shoulder for an hour ... the private hostel soon located, beautifully situated, homely and friendly ... Jose lights the log burner ... the only customer so far, though this is open to all and climbers and walkers are about ... probably booked ahead elsewhere ... the editor will have to wait for more pilgrim profiles ... a rare menu del dia. .. vegetarian option ... and an even rarer salad ingredient of banana, which works well ...four restaurants to choose from ... the first advertised
that English was spoken, indicating English speaking tourists about ... the menu more important than that, the second one had the veggie menu so that was it ...

For readers who like the details, this current route is called the Camino Vadiniense, from San Vicente to Mansilla de las Mulas, incorporating the Camino Lebaniego, which runs from San Vicente to Santo Toribio ... tomorrow it is over the watershed at Fuente De and down into Castille y Leon at Portilla de la Reina ...

Sunday heresies ....

Having done two hard days walking up from the coast, today is reserved for Santo Toribio and Potes ... a leisurely breakfast, with a new challenge ... making porridge in a microwave ... an abomination for one who previously avoided such new-fangled contraptions ... the first heresy of the day ... and it's ok ... anyway, there is no conventional cooker in this strange kitchen, with lots of empty cupboards, one plate, no spoons ... a washing machine to freely use ... empty refrigerator ... the whole albergue showing familiar signs of a facility designed by bureaucrats and funded with external capital and local revenue ... meaning that without a pilgrim hospitalero such as Mikhail, there is no soul or commonsense simplicity ... Sandra and her colleague at the very helpful pilgrim centre and tourist office regretfully decline the photo opportunity ... rules ... and efficiently book in pilgrims between 10 am and 2pm, 4pm and 7pm ... and pass on the info for the three stages to Riano ... a good chance to improve the Spanish... the hostel itself centrally located beneath the main square  ... 70 beds in eight dormitories ... only one pilgrim so far today ...

Light rain lingers long enough for a rainbow before we set off up to Santo Toribio ... easy for seasoned climbers ... silently and mostly separately ...

Two coachloads already at the monastery provide a busy background ... in the church the holy relic ... a splinter of the cross, embedded into a golden treasure, protected by iron bars ... maybe more sophisticated technology too ... no resonance for this heretical pilgrim, pondering the provenance of this elaborate story ... a long climb up to hermitage sites, with awe inspiring views, resonates more ... down to the restored hermitage of San Miguel, with a small wooden statue of the warrior saint ... locked ... on a Sunday ... never mind, it's a good spot for a picnic in warm sunshine ... sympathetic Spaniard suggests some people have lost respect for the one true faith and its forms ... it took a while ... considering the history of torture, burnings, war ... violence in the name of Love ... feeling lucky to be heretical in the modern age ... safer ...

David is on the bus ... having shared an afternoon table in the pretty, busy, Potes  ... he expresses atheism, yet models love ... babies being thrown out with the bathwater ...

La Fuente to Potes. ..

Having agreed breakfast at 7.30 and sleeping until 8, the table is laid with bowls of muesli and fresh fruit and a guttering candle ... dawn beginning over the mountain ... no sign of Mikhail throughout, his door closed ... meditating, sleeping, sulking? We may never know, but he has eaten his muesli ... coffee has to wait until Cicera, an hour or so over the pass ... tacking steeply uphill, over and down along a track to the beautiful village and its open bar ... a coffee and loaf from yesterday. .. it is old, Marcelo says ... better than nothing ... mejor que nada ... these mountains have plenty of Nature, not much commerce. ..

David arrives for coffee and I take another ... then on to the 4km diversion to the mirador recommended by Mikhail ... amazing and worth the effort ... back to Cicera to pick up the path over the mountain ... three options ... high, lower and the middle way ... which is high enough and with red arrows all the way. .. proper mountain walking through autumn woods, steeply up hairpin paths and wonderful all the way to Liebana ... a moment of awe before the massive mountain face above the village ... another interesting up and over proposed to avoid dangerous mountain road, usurped by cars at the expense of the pilgrims ... lunch of old bread, watered and dressed with honey, chocolate from yesterday's supplies ...road to Potes 8km for cars, pilgrim path 15 with climbing ... enough is enough and the road is chosen ... cliff on one side, drop to river on the other ... hyper-aware of oncoming traffic and survive unscathed ... soon at a bar before Potes for refreshment and rest ... into the very busy Saturday night town ... tourist info issuing keys to central albergue with lots of beds ... only David and me so far ... though the advertised hostel at Santo Toribio, 3 km on and up is closed ... that is the destination tomorrow ... a gentle day, there and back, time to take in the history ... then assess onward route for Monday. .. David goes back to Madrid in the early evening ... a good companion. .. both having improved our language skills ... his brief biog ... 30, working as security for RENFE ... studying psychology ... wanting to work with children ... his rapport with little Claudia in San Vicente augurs  well for such a career ...

San Vicente to La Fuente

Forecast for full sun ... out before 9 ... Karina and Remi in charge now ... climbing, south, east, west ... not north, that's the sea ... along with Santiago route to Munorrodero, feet fine, legs glad to be moving ... bar declined in favour of church with sunny seat to air the feet ... some chocolate from rations .. on in search of red cross of Camino Liebana route ... not found, so roadside briskly upwards ... lunch stop with pinchos and coffee at Camijanes and very friendly owner ... only an hour to Cades and proposed first day albergue ... slowing down ... enjoying the sun, the mountains ...
Cades comes quickly ... too soon really, but municipal albergue looks good and friendly local points to nearby house as place to find the key ... not the next door bar, he says, significantly .... at the house the two old ladies have no key and my poor Spanish gets me no further ... along to the bar for a rest and coffee before pushing on to next possibility ... rather miserable chap serves small coffee and asks 1.10 euros ... overpriced for here, especially since the large coffee and 6 pinchos at the previous bar were an underpriced 2 euros ...

Climbing steadily along the quiet road, following the river up, bars and beds thin on the ground ... finally La Fuente ... suggested by Lola ... at 39 km already 5 km from the end of proposed second day ... a pretty little church ... modern municipal albergue ... Hilario carving clogs points to it, says the hospitalero will return soon, but it is open, so go in and take a shower ... which has the simple qualities required ... hose, hot and cold water, good pressure ... perfect ... Mikhail arrives, checks me in ... declines to identify his nationality, saying it separates us ... Russian is my guess ... deep ... proposing evening meal, bed and breakfast for 11 euros ... all vegetarian ... delicious ...

David, from Madrid, last seen leaving the albergue at San Vicente a good hour before me, arrives ... making me think I took a short cut somewhere ... or maybe he stopped for lunch ... his English is about as good as my Spanish ...  no wifi but essential info for tomorrow from the enigmatic Mikhail...

Being a hospitalero ...

Yesterday Luis, the fast fading father of current boss of the albergue, asked if I was staying ... and perhaps we could run things together when Lola, her mum and daughter, take their week off at the end of the month ... a family power struggle as things change from the glory days of ten years ago ... I am itching to move, so not an option anyway ... nice compliment though ... still tuned in to the pilgrim life ... Lola adamant about closure. .. wresting control ... happy for me to walk up the Picos and pick up the post on 7th November .... let's see ... more likely push on over to Astorga ....

Just under a week here and everyone so friendly ... happy to have been here ... content to let it go ... some lessons learnt ... pilgrim life perceived from another side ... and, like Groundhog Day, wandering along the beach, then back to the hostel with rucksack, albeit lighter, as if coming into town fresh each day ...

Warm farewell from lovely Lola last night ... and invite to return sometime .... this morning pilgrim porridge again, with Karina up to help, incoming hospitalero Remi being more of an evening person ... anyway, breakfast and checkout can run self-service ... these days have been a bonus for pilgrims and the porridge loving temporary hospitalero ... one week in the role, now onwards and upwards to the mountains!

Posher Pilgrims ...

After yesterday's slightly caustic comment on pilgrims preferring a little more comfort after walking all day ... and having the resources to pay between 15 and 50 euros instead of donativo to 12 found in the basic albergues ... a timely reminder  from Thay, via Stanhope friend Norton's post on FB on the discriminating mind ... not to mention the judgemental one ... and of course the practical provided by Robert, a Brit with Canadian accent, seeking the route, hearing his story of losing wallet and phone at Heathrow, spending time hopping back and forth to Bilbao to arrange new cash card, staying in places other than our more than simple albergue ... joining up just outside town with regular walking partners, also skipping our home comforts .... the snorers, farters, mumblers and soap dodgers ... yes, another opportunity to discern or judge yesterday's pilgrim, shocked at 10 euros, accepting the free bed and breakfast ... though not washing his plate; finding resources for cigarettes and beer (to be fair, he offered some coins for that) ... interesting to observe that the self-service breakfast, having been temporarily subverted by table service plus porridge (a hit again, especially with delighted Germans), sets up an expectation that washing-up will also be taken care of ... with some exceptions ... all material for social psychology investigation part of this chapter of the Camino ...

A message from the editor, back in England after Ciblat summer, to suggest more detail on the lives of pilgrims, less on the landscape ... the first opportunity, at the cafe, Roque or maybe Rocky, craggy peregrino from Tenerife, limited by my poor Spanish and his wish to walk ... next, two peregrinas, maybe Dutch, at bus station for Santander bus and shopping for sandals after foot damage from tight shoes ... or wide feet, depending on perspective ... no time there either ... feet treatment in surf a little chilly and the call for relief hospitalero to enable Picos crossing before snow arrives at lower levels ... results in first pilgrim, Remi, cycling Frenchman, accepting the mission ... then Karina, French woman, retiring from Camino due to injury, wanting to stay three days before flying home ... and would have taken the job too ... anyway, the coast is clear for mountain hike in the morning ... and if the forecast is right, the hills will be without cloud too ...

Michael, from Germany, arrives, then French reinforcements from Clemence and Wissal.... on one of these wonderful programmes to offer teenagers a different way of life and us some rap culture on the commandeered computer ... early morning routine more gentle Ave Maria and Om Mani Padme Hung ... Philipp from Austria, Rachel from Barcelona, David from Madrid, Corinne from France, Lao from Manchuria make ten for breakfast ... porridge training for Remi ... then on the Way again ...

The middle way of hostel living is appealing, the options are open anyway ... having saved sufficient from the pension during these periods of mutuality ...

In depth interviews not pursued today, French folks off out together ... the suggestion has been accepted and put into the universe for action ...

Cantabrian Tales, Pilgrims' Porridge ....

Asturias begins just along the coast, but this stay in San Vicente postpones a visit ... depending on the route after SantoToribio, maybe for quite a while ... let's see ... meanwhile Pilgrims' Porridge is prepared, proving very popular ... catering for twelve, with only Norbert passing ... at the end of breakfast, with Alina raving about it and taking seconds, Andres, tasting for the first time and coming back for more, there is just enough ... added apple, banana and cinammon the secret ingredients .... enjoying the role of serving the pilgrims ...

Last evening's conversation with Anne was wonderful ... beautiful energy and common ground ... a connection made maybe  for Portugal project sometime ...

As the pilgrims set off, it became clear that one had gone without the rucksack ... quite unusual behaviour ... Rolf returned 40 minutes later claiming distraction from walking partners ... he and partner Giselle have teamed up with Alina ... Brigitte, Carlo and Andres also a group ... the human urge to be social ...

This morning's beach walk was to include Uma, who is usually keen ... seeing the rucksack she seemed to think she was going to Santiago like the others ... and adamantly declined ... the feet happy with the soaking and recovering ready for these Picos in the distance ....

Diego from Cordoba first arrival ... impecunious and offered free bed by compassionate Luis and Lola ... next Veronique from France ... Juan, Encasua and their son Alejandro ... all waiters from Murcia and keen Barcelona fans seeking late pass to watch the match tonight ... Gerhard from Germany, heading up to Santo Toribio, having arrived from Muxia, Finisterre, by bus, after completing the Seville route, the Via del Plata  ... Montserrat from Mexico ... a late rush ... Comillas still closed ... Germany, Italy, Canada, Korea ... Alfonso from Pamplona ... 13 so far ... plus a dog ...to the bar for WiFi ... and a glass of wine ...

The Camino is seen as a parallel universe, where humans practise being the best they can be ... living simply ... differences of status, wealth not projected (though there are pickier pilgrims staying in hotels ... gaining in comfort, losing in conviviality) ... compassion the norm, sharing food, information, stories ... the whole thing a meditation, Anne suggested ...

Meron Playa

Two late arrivals, Julia and Victor, from Germany, made 14 last night ... and a convivial breakfast this morning ... late departers too ... testing Luisa by requesting a service wash .... a good connection last night and this morning ... common ground philosophically ... a Krishnamurti connection too .... suggesting "the late pilgrims", Victor picked up the unintended double entendre ... his Rumanian family moved to Germany when he was four ...

Last evening's rain having cleared, it was time for a walk east to Oyambre and a great view for miles along the coast in both directions ... and to the Picos, high peaks snow covered ... the route goes round them ... cycling pilgrim from yesterday spoke of route to Astorga from Santa Toribio ... an option for another day ... return barefoot in the surf, soothing the bruise ... musing on patterns in sand as waves wash in, then out again ... surfers finding good breakers ...

Giselle and Rolf, from Germany, and Alina, from Denmark, first in at opening time .... then Ricardo from Italy ... Mathieu, mysteriously appears after travelling with Pierre as far as San Sebastian ... escapes to the next albergue after saying hello and filling water bottles ... a longish break before Marie arrives, on a new route ... Porto to Santiago, back on the Primitivo, over to the Liebanese ...another pause before Brigitte, last seen in San Sebastian arrives with two men in tow ... Carlo from Italy, Andreas from Spain ... then Casuela and Marianne then Norberto from Germany ... Anne from Switzerland ... who appears to be not only on the same wavelength, but also buzzing on the same frequency ...

Birthday Monday

Departing pilgrims in no rush ... full moon obscured by cloud ... clearing later for morning stroll in the surf ...sun hot reflecting off shallow sea ... musing on these days in San Vicente ... not known for popular tourism from Britain, retired Welsh cycling and campervan couple notwithstanding ... glad to escape lifetime careers in the NHS ... or National Illness Business as it has become .... people profile evidenced by newspapers on display ... here the only English language ones are New York Herald Tribune and  FT ...some balance  for often wild conspiracy theories on FB feed .... between them it seems the insatiable military-industrial monster led by the USA is preparing yet another war, this time a big one ... resource rich Russia, meddling in US business in the Middle East, the target ... how to transcend the madness of it all? Surely not by buying into the decadent myths of capitalism ... or to be practical, not buying all the stuff they sell .... conspicuous consumption being a root cause of so much misery ...

Pilgrims arrive slowly ... three having escaped earlier, going on to next hostel ... Denmark, Spain, Germany ... 12 in all ... one on bike over the Picos ... which are calling, though best when free of cloud cover ... toe recovering, no sign of replacement hospitalero ... or dentist for failing filling ...

It's Luisa's birthday ... and thanks to my rubbish command of Spanish, I wish her Happy Christmas ... an easy mistake to make ... and there is cake!

Sunday in San Vicente

Some heavy snoring last night ... hospitalero protected in the small room in the corner ... big cupboard really, but all is relative and gratitude essential ...

A convivial breakfast with a table full of pilgrims ... Luisa in early to help ... two cyclists and fifteen walkers having departed, two of them up to the Picos, time for some exercise ... round to the lighthouse, a sign asking you not to kill yourself ... after that you are on your own, without barriers at the end ... elfin safety combined with taking responsibility ... another sign advising that collecting shellfish is prohibited to the public ... protecting the livelihood of this fishing town ...and a church packed with Sunday Christians ... a sole beggar waits outside, casting an eye over possible competition ....

Lola is tired ... looking forward to a week off at the end of the month ... this place was buzzing once, her mother and father running things, with Lola and Claudia's departed father helping ... now she has them to care for as well  as four year old Claudia ... and the pilgrims, seven days a week ... Luisa supports, plus random volunteers, but the responsibility is hers and it is too much ...

Surfers out early, like seals in the distance ... some decent waves ....cloudy start .... warm enough though ... a coffee and mid-morning blogging at now regular cafe ... small glass of coffee and pain au chocolate regular order ... routine re-establishing ...

Family meal, Lola's mum and dad, brother, sister-in-law, nephew ... later sister and brother-in-law arrive ... more family than pilgrims so far ...

Candele from Argentina arrives, then Nils, last seen in San Sebastian ... after late lunch, stretching the legs and find Donna from Derry ... that's just three ... quiet after last night ...

Saturday in San Vicente de la Barquera ...

After breakfast, seeing the pilgrims off towards Asturias ... Luisa arrives to clean ... Achille and I continue our conversation on the route ... until the next village ... up the hill to the little locked church, to find Marita. .. Julian joins, then the Korean mother and daughter last seen in Castro ... this part-time peregrino turns round ... big toe on right foot rather tender after yesterday's fall ... salt water bath prescribed ... after a coffee in town, to the beach and a lovely long plodge ... the five German women plus Victor guiding pass, with him hobbling ... sore Achilles tendon, bag sent on to next albergue ... though not this one, so far ... seventeen pilgrims ... Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Poland, Czech Republic represented .... Poles going up to Santa Toribio ... where the Christians stashed the holy relics when the Moors came calling ...