Amarante to Castelo Branco ...

Well, Amarante was nice ... its youth hostel excellent ... vegetarian cafe a bonus ... today speeds the journey considerably ... bus to Vila Real, connection to Covilha ... wine territory much of the way ... mountains terraced from long ago ... the motorways quite a feat of engineering ... and Artur, the driver, demonstrating not only good English, but also a love of the culture ... our dear queen and all that ... strong opinions on lots of subjects ... his son diagnosed with autism, high functioning ... Arthur critical of special education provision ... and of politicians in general ... rats in a sack, he says ... born in Angola and returned after the revolution, spent some time in Venezuela ... father seeking the standards to which he had become accustomed in the colony .....

At Covilha, under an hour to switch to a train to Castelo Branco ... so lunch skipped ... a hostel found, not the Pousada de Juventude from before, but A Esplanade ... an interesting cross between a hostel, with kitchen to use, and a B&B ... and since a meal is required, a trip to the shops finds spinach, long craved, and other vegetables for a stew ... a bottle of Dao wine, since we crossed the river at speed after Viseu ... diospiros, in season all around ... rather like mangos without the stone ... and cake, of course ... DIY cookery is the best answer to ensure optimimum nutrition ... without bacalhau ...

Communications with Penamacor folks feeding the dogs is tricky ... no phone here, no internet there ... Jan, working in Sussex for a few weeks, mediating ... let's see what tomorrow brings ... a midday bus to Penamacor likely ... a lift possible ...

Amarante to Celorico de Basto and back ...

20+ km along the Ecovia, previously the railway ... running along the valley of the Tamega steadily up into the mountains ... 4 hours steady plodding, without cafes to distract ... just a swift rest halfway ... a few locals walking, four cyclists and that was it ... terraces of grape vines, forests of pine and eucalyptus ... ready for lunch at Celerico ... a choice of Risotto Mariscos ... err, that's it ... no bacalhau? ... filling and tasty ... wine and coffee ... €5 ... a tired and hopeful enquiry to a bus driver establishes an imminent bus to Amarante ... 4 hours was enough, 4 hours back too much!

Return to details of tomorrow's trip south ... not easy to establish timetables for connection to Penamacor ... looking likely that a trip from Covilha to Castelo Branco is on the cards ... connect from there ... meanwhile, Amarante has been fun ... the Pousada de Juventude special ... the weather warm and sunny ... which helps ...

Sunny Amarante

After yesterday's walking adventure and a good night's sleep, legs reluctant to move ... maybe Amarante itself saying: linger longer ... and once the early mist has cleared the town is lovely in warm sunshine ... Porto, Braga and Guimaraes all had their chance to shine, but rain dampened their appearance ... this place is special ... and its delights appear as yesterday's route is retraced ... first the bus station, with morning and afternoon services to Viseu and Covilha ... next tourist info and Elena keen to practise her English ... Pousada de Juventude here, Ecovia to Celerico de Basto here ... hmmm a traffic free walking route sounds fun for tomorrow ... the Youth Hostel has a vegetarian restaurant ... another plus ... wifi without complications ... not in the room, a blessing as subsequent research may reveal ... a €14 bargain with breakfast and free laundry for a 2 bed room, currently without company ... tomorrow booked too, the round trip is 40 km and doable on a direct route ... previously a railway ...and news from Jan near Penamacor ... she is in UK working for a while, but the house is free ... dogs currently being fed by friends with similar community ideas ... Wednesday proposed hook up, leaving tomorrow for walk up the old railway track .. and back for early bus ... maybe ...

Meanwhile in UK, wandering daughter has booked a one way flight to the Philippines. .. why not?
Putting more energy into probability fields of ways to see her before late February flight ... though one field could be seeing her in the Philippines ... more likely a trip to England, more stable daughter still there ... easy enough from Porto, easier still from Faro, which also calls as winter closes in ...

Reporting on the observations from recent rainy days ... how the desire for the cave, shelter, a primal urge, asserts itself ... and how quickly the sun opens up the options ... perhaps one of the attractions of drier climates ... in Portugal that is further south at this time of year ... for now, it is sunny ...

Guimaraes to Amarante ...

Clouds clear for a walking day, though still open as to where after an early breakfast ... Amarante favourite, though tricky, and passing the railway station, where an option to ride back to Porto and pick up the Fatima arrows was considered ... the legs decided to stretch and we picked out an interesting route off main roads all morning ... and maybe added some kilometres to an already long day ... since the terrain is quite populated, with village after village, seeking advice from locals ... tuning in to the language, slowly picking it up ... the halfway town, Felgueiras, arrives by noon, and just before, by a bar, Frederic smiles, asks ... Fatima? He is planning to walk the Northern Way to Santiago in April or May ... existential crisis ... 40, French national, born of Portuguese parents, fluent in English as well as French and Portuguese ... Portugal calling, specifically Fuseta, on the Algarve, where the family have a holiday home .. a warm connection over coffee ... blog shared ... plenty of Camino inspiration there ... he goes off for lunch with the school friend he is visiting ... and approaching the long awaited Felgueiras, a lunch stop, bacalhau declined, cheese omelette with potatoes and rice negotiated ... and chocolate cake ... on through town at 3pm , with 17 km to Amarante, sun shining, legs willing and hotels not appearing ... plenty in Amarante and arriving there before dark unlikely, so head down and hit the main road ... mostly safe enough, though the last hour as sun set, on twisting road and thin hard shoulder a little hairy, even with fluorescent arm band and head torch to preserve the walker territory ...

Amarente looks a handsome town, even in the dark ... the hotel in the centre, with a small room overlooking the river is a bargain €20 ... the cheese roll stashed from breakfast enough to save leaving the comfortable bed ... no idea about the morning, though a little time exploring Amarante seems a good idea ... the mountain beyond, towards Viseu, has snow on it and anyway looks too long for one day ... some research required ... and there is wifi ...

Guimaraes again ...

A beautiful city, steeped in history, and well worth taking time to wander around in warm sunshine ... although if such weather had appeared no doubt the wandering would have been south to Amarante, over 30 km and needing an early start... the other practical consideration was the need for laundry, since socks and pants need refreshing ... and drying, tricky in the hotels with wall mounted warm or cold air blowers ... so, since the predicted clouds turn out to contain rain, the long walk is postponed for a trudge around and the Pousada de Juventude ... no laundry, but good radiators for drying the clothes hand washed ... a top bunk in a six bed dormitory, to improve the average expenditure, since Amarante looks short of cheap beds ... this is €9 including breakfast, albeit rather late at half past eight ... a question for tomorrow ... for now, after a damp stroll, a dry museum and a couple of churches, it's back to base to write ... then find bar WiFi to send and scroll, since the Youth Hostel offer is consistently useless without a mobile phone ...

And lunch ... the main meal most days and today a chance to mooch, pass an hour or two, maybe find a menu that doesn't offer bacalhau as the only alternative to the flesh of dead mammals or birds ...

Interesting to observe the thought processes on a rainy day, compared to a sunny one ... outdoor options contract ... shelter is priority ... even a shopping centre offers some respite ... a little engagement with captive sales assistants on options for a mobile to hook into the Tab and provide calls ... posters everywhere promoting the latest madness of Mammon ... "Black Friday" ... discounts on more stuff you don't need ... easy to opt out when all stuff has to fit in the rucksack and be carried ... which suggests a phone using the same charger as the Tab ...

Well, since the lunch place has wifi, and since any extraordinary events can be reported tomorrow, here is the news from damp Guimaraes ... bacalhau was declined ... it's a speciality here .... hmmm, any chance of some eggs? The dessert, another speciality, is pudim flan and yummy ... now to explore some more ...

Braga to Guimaraes ...

After yesterday's deluge and gratefully received rest day, options for today opened up as the clouds cleared ... legs ready for work and Guimaraes the aim ... the place where it all started ... Portugal that is ... and whilst subsequent information reveals the Caminho Real over the mountain, lack of research or arrows means the main road and its narrow hard shoulder ... dangerous, says Luis at the Tasca do Carregal, every year people die in accidents ... more details required to ascertain whether that is foolhardy walkers, cyclists, motorists ... walking attentively facing the oncoming traffic seems safe enough, if not the most pleasant possibility ... engaging locals along the way in the question, none proposed the mountain route (complicated), except cyclist Luis, who knows the alternatives ... and gives directions to escape the deadly road ... his wife Patricia and her mother, Altanina, pass further info on possiblities ... and all allow photos ... their excellent English enabling communication beyond the previous limited attempts at Portuguese ... after an hour a restaurant for an earlier than usual lunch ... still a few hours from Guimaraes. .. musing on the shift from the known routes and their arrows to a deeper connection with Portugal and its very friendly people ... at the restaurant bacalhau is proposed ... typical Portuguese dish ... hmm, yes and dozens of ways to cook it ... strangely the salted cod is imported from colder water ... a local elder comes to the table hoping for a chat in German ... he worked there for 40 years  ... no luck ...maybe a returning French speaker next time ... already Patricia fluent in English after four years in Reading ... and fond memories ... as well as concurring with this self-critical Anglo (Brit works better rhythmically, but upsets Scottish friend) on the ravages we visited on the Algarve and the reluctance to embrace local language and culture amongst many compatriots. ..

After lunch, a brief reunion with yellow arrows and some quiet wandering before returning to the main road and a heavy shower ... a bar for shelter and WiFi for research for tonight's bed ... revealing some options ... though it is the weekend ...

And after rain relented, return to thin hard shoulder into the city ... far enough and late enough after three longish breaks ... at the start of the historic centre, S. Mamede Hotel is first from the considered candidates, though not the cheapest ... ready for the welcome hot bath and shower, a rare treat for the feet ... and incoming vid from Athene via Diogo ... linked to APtB FB or check You Tube for Athene ... fascinating stuff and Diogo's pal, Fabio, is in the team developing the work ...

As for this trip, evening possibilities are always different from the morning ones, and since the weather seems to be picking up, many options are open ... including a walkable town south towards the Douro, Amarante, recommended by Luis ... and moving towards Viseu and the Dao ... maybe ...  sorry for photo failure in beautiful Braga ... but there are plenty on the internet, of course ... Guimaraes too ... it has a squiggly accent on the second 'a' ... not easy to pronounce!

Porto to Braga ...

The third man appeared in the room well into deep sleep time .. muttered something, went out ... returned, muttering some more ... clattered about, climbed up to the bunk above, farted loudly, fell asleep ... and was still sleeping as we took a late breakfast ... appearing as David and I were leaving ... we never spoke, though David says he was Polish, had been working at the university, needed a drink last night ...

Wandering along the river to the cathedral, picking up arrows, though not for today, finding a coffee and WiFi for your tardy posting ... then the promised rain, quite heavy ... hostel options not clear ... shelter in the nearby station showed an imminent train to Braga ... on the mind awhile, an alternate route for Santiago and Fatima, a Pousada de Juventude without lots of young people attending the European Youth Parliament ... and other options in a city of more manageable scale ... a ticket with 50% discount for being old an amazing €2.05 ... cheaper than the coffee and cake earlier ... a pleasant mobile shelter from the rain, albeit in the opposite direction than previously planned ... and not one of yesterday's probabilities ... though always strongly in the possibility field ...

And so, after 50km in just under an hour, Braga in light rain ... a good lunch ... then heavier rain ... tourist info offer a map and directions to the Youth Hostel ... which is closed ... any other hostels? Try tourist info, end of the street, turn right ... hmm ... at the end of the street an hotel, €30 with breakfast ... warm and dry ... and with WiFi .... later research indicates a pilgrim hostel, but this will do fine ... some comfort out of the rain ... a day to rest the feet ... ponder on the question of contemporary gods and goddesses ... seeing images of the Portuguese hero Cristiano Ronaldo and the other superstars of the 3D world ... and developing the question of protection ... the theme of a separate post ...

As for photos, there are none today ... so here's some graffiti from the French Way ...and the old credential ... there's a new one for Fatima ...

Barcelos to Porto ...

After a very peaceful night and a generous breakfast it was out before 8 and head down for 3 hours, along cobbled lanes, sandy tracks and occasional hard shoulder adventures ... one of which involved another of those pilgrim dogs ... small, bright, silent (unlike the house bound barkers) and trotting along fearlessly in the road, forcing traffic to swerve or wait ... no pics this time, they're not keen ... a good test for equanimity, since there was nothing to be done but trust whatever guardian angel the perrogrino had looking after him ... until finally he disappeared. ...

At the first coffee stop, Lyn and Alan, pensioner pilgrims from Australia are happy to hear the latest theories about what's going on ... keen walkers, they did the French Way two years ago and the Coast to Coast in Northern England ... this time it's Porto to Tui ... and since that's the other way, we part after photos ...

More plodding, cobbles keeping the pace down, but with more life than the dreaded tarmac ... passing a few pilgrims ... and just when the legs are calling for a break and the stomach for a refill, a restaurant appears, full of locals ... a filling meal with a risky glass of wine or two all for €5.50 ...and a very warm chat in a mixture of French, English and Portuguese ...

The mind is fixed on Porto, since it is warm and sunny and rain forecast for tomorrow ... but not walking all the way ... over 50 ...  finding the metro to skip the last 10 or so through the city. .. as the day draws in, a rest and drink in a bar, checking metro location and the bar owner offers to drive me ... a long enough train journey, then an hour along the river to the Youth Hostel, which has a bed for tonight, though not tomorrow ... some big youth event ...

A-musing along the way about the many possibilities ... and the probabilities, the possibilities which are more propitious ... waiting to be brought forth ... the proximity to an international airport offering a surprise trip to neglected daughters, friends and erstwhile neighbours. .. the much improved Fatima signage ... blue arrows now with white background and Fatima written on ... plus intriguing blue spirals ... the route appeals as the default option for now ... then there are buses across to Penamacor, Jan and her friends .... south to Tavira if the weather deteriorates ... let's see what tomorrow brings ... maybe another day in Porto ... another hostel ...

For now, it's late, the Hostel has the complicated WiFi meaning a trip to a bar for your update .... though no bar appears nearby ... and my room mate turns out to be David, last seen in Flora's Bar in Mos ...

Ponte de Lima to Barcelos ...

A long walk, but easy enough, through a well populated part of the north ... houses and small villages dotted all over ... after early breakfast at the Youth Hostel, clothes, shoes and rucksack dry after yesterday's soaking ... out into misty morning ... arrows easy enough for a couple of hours ... then a miss and an off-route wander, adding a kilometre or two ... a good excuse to engage willing locals to point the way ... a couple of Italian pilgrims pass ... later a German ... not much engagement  ... all going towards Santiago ... after another off route wander, this time possibly a short cut along a rather perilous mountain road, a lunch stop at Restaurant 2000, right by an albergue ... too early for that ... vegetable soup and a big plate of fish, chips, rice and salad ... enough to last the whole day ... Paulo, pictured, speaks good English, despite never having visited and offers a lift to Barcelos, where he lives ... leaving in two hours time ... gratefully decline, and sure enough, entering the city, he toots hello ...

Through town, across the river, and a rather nice guest house, Bway ... €20 for a bed (not bunk), with sheets and towel ... en suite bathroom and two other beds ... though no-one has taken them so far ... breakfast included .. and a comfy lounge with logburner and WiFi to write this post ... a day of solitude. .. sunshine ... plenty to see ... a chance to try some Portuguese. .. some theory required to add to the enthusiasm ... tomorrow towards Porto and maybe into the outskirts, with metro assistance to hide in the Youth Hostel for Thursday's predicted heavy rain ... let's see ...

Rubiaes to Ponte de Lima

From a chilly municipal albergue in a place with a name but no obvious centre ... over the mountains on a rain day ... to the very beautiful Ponte de Lima, claiming to be the oldest town in Portugal ... its eponymous bridge over its equally eponymous river of strategic importance for centuries, since it first carried the Via Romana XIX from Braga to Astorga ... indeed the old road pops up all the way along the Camino Portugues ...

Skipping breakfast, the first stop comes after 2 hours and off route ... and shortly after, having rejoined the arrows, a second stop to chat with Janneke, from Holland, walking to Santiago ... maybe as far as the Albergue Estrada Romana today ... a brief break in the clouds and rain, with added hail, and some Sun to warm us ... further on, along a woodland trail, Camila appears ... her first sight of a strange man approaching produces a broad smile ... this young Italian, Santiago bound, has something special about her ... she left Ponte de Lima late to avoid the rain ... an hour on and it starts again ... though maybe not where she is ... the feet are soaked now, not from shoe failure, it's getting in via the socks ...

Brief research has identified a local albergue without heating and a Pousada de Juventude, which usually have it ... first stop in town, at 1245, before crossing the bridge, is a pilgrim lunch for a great value €6 ... then over to the main part of town and along the plane tree avenue to the very modern youth hostel ... €8 with pilgrim discount ... heating and breakfast included ... WiFi more complicated, but that can be found in any bar nearby ...

Meanwhile, musing on research, planning and even walker satnav. .. the odd slip-up is a small price to pay for the uncertainty ... failing to bring a guide book or map was not a perverse decision, it just didn't occur ... there is gronze.com the day before and info from other pilgrims, hospitaleros, bar folks and locals of course, always happy to put you right ... indeed a couple in a car this morning stopped to check that Ponte de Lima was indeed intended and not the more usual Santiago ...

Having dried out, it's off to explore the town ... find WiFi for your update at the library ... some info from very friendly tourist folks on Fatima route ... still rather vague, but blue arrows to follow anyway ... fruity supper at the warm hostel and drier tomorrow ... hopefully ...

Valenca to Rubiaes

A very good night's sleep in the simple room with sheets, towels, peace and quiet ... awake early, adjusting to clockbackery ... and early breakfast is followed by rain check ... the possible double stage recedes whilst it eases ... recalling story of Portuguese facility with English partly due to their television sub-titling English language programmes, rather than dubbing as in Spain (which itself an art form, leads to some fascinating western, known US actors speaking fluent Spanish, albeit with mouth movements strangely out of sync) ... a few moments of US low culture seems a high price for learning Portuguese and football highlights tempt a switch ... until rain settles to drizzle, and waterproofed it's on the road and south ... a brief arrow error reinforces the slowing down, a local provides an escort to the Fatima Way, a friendly chat in Spanish, since he is from there and wanders back occasionally ...

Rain stops and an interesting albergue plus cafe appears .. timely for removing sweaty waterproof trousers ...the Quinta Estrada Romana and volunteer Michael, from Denmark ... adopted as a baby and speaking no Korean, feeling completely Danish ... and like most Danes of his generation with a better command of English than most native Brits ... an energy worker, he passes interesting information on energy, dimensions and more ...

Jeff, the Canadian owner, with his partner Lesley, on leave in Canada ... Camino walkers, seeking community, the farm competing with the albergue for attention ... tempting to stay a night, but it's early and frequencies not entirely aligning ... on into brightening skies ... and a little dog joins in ... at first taking a walk from its territory .. it happens ... this one keeps going for an hour ... has no collar .. crosses roads fearlessly ... declines the offer of friendly young German pilgrims to return north with them ... another spirit perrogrina ... at the bar before Rubiaes, finding lunch stop, she disappears as if into thin air .... seems to be a Camino Portugues thing ...

At the municipal albergue it's self-service ... Catherine from Korea, currently working and studying in London ... who makes tea ... and is trying to stretch soup to meet the number of pilgrims ... now including Jindra and Denes and a Dutch woman, yet to appear from her bed ... head into the internet ... Rubiaes appears to be less a town than a collection of scattered houses ... a couple of bars, incuding Contantino's, where a good lunch has met today's needs ... tomorrow, some more rain and a short stage to Ponte de Lima ...

Mos to Valenca ... Portugal ...

Despite dire snoring warnings from David, the night passed peacefully after stories in the bar from Neilly, Australian who ran a cafe in her small town near Melbourne for four years ... time consuming work ... sold it for a new adventure on the Camino ... met a German, Florian, and is flying to see him after Santiago ... David's early adventure, in the US army based in Okinawa, on leave travelled around Asia with a friend ... not Vietnam though ... now semi-retired from a career in administration, specifically wages, in Atlanta, Georgia, he is loving the adventure ...

On the road at 8 and soon at Porrino for coffee. .. through town, then head down for the dreaded industrial estate, straight for two kilometres ... missing the scenic alternative, but finding the wide green verge and mindless marching fine training ... shandy at Laguna and yesterday's update, then relaxing wander to Tui, passing a few pilgrims with cheery greetings ... through this last Spanish town, over the bridge and, after 7 months in Spain, Portugal again ... and thanks to more clockbackery, an extra hour to locate lunch before the rain sets in ... a rather posh restaurant in the old fort serves a decent pilgrim menu ... WiFi enables research for a bed ... a €25 hotel, with breakfast, appears ... some comfort after 3 dormitories ... and a bath, with plug, to soak the joints ...bearing up well, but worthy of care and attention ... Ernest, passing German pilgrim this morning is nursing a dodgy knee ... spotting steep descents and calling a taxi ... determined to keep walking ... worth remembering when contemplating challenges ... like tomorrow's 18 ... looking a little light ... maybe a double, making 35 ?

Pontevedra to Mos ...

Well, yesterday's WiFi was insufficient for the task ... this is the update 10 km from Tui and the border with Portugal ... if Bar Laguna has the power ..

A decent stage yesterday and a convivial evening with Santiago bound Maria, Jose, David and Neilly, plus Porto bound Denes ... hosted by Flora, whose culinary skills are stronger than her WiFi, and who also takes care of the municipal albergue across the road ... today's post to come later ... meanwhile here are some pilgrims!

Caldas to Pontevedra ...

The hospitalera was nowhere to be seen last night or this morning ... which meant stamping the credential, essential for the next albergue ... and deciding whether to leave some money on the desk or accept the gift ... out early as the church bells rang 8 ... dawn coming, moon lingering ... coffee and complimentary cake nearby, then picking up backward yellow, forward blue arrows for 21 km of mostly off road walking ... passing four surprisingly early incoming elderly English speaking pilgrims from Pontevedra ... having shortened the stage with the help of a taxi driver ... on through woodland and another coffee and cake halfway ... on again, mostly beside the railway, some pilgrims, though few enough, indicating plenty of room at the Pontevedra hostel ... at the start of Pontevedra, a big town or small city, another coffee and 2 cakes, one for the pack ... caked out and craving fruit ... wandering through the pleasant city centre, recalling the albergue, bus and train stations are all on the far side ... and after a fruitless, somewhat fishy lunch, with wine, options abound at 2 pm on a sunny afternoon ... less than three hours over the hill to Arcade and the next hostel or 2 hours bashing the tarmac ... check into the albergue for an early finish and maybe some pilgrim stories for the demanding editor (perhaps catching up with Hungarian Danush and his Czech mate, also heading south) ... and having lunched at the Train Station Cafeteria, take a look at where the trains go and when ... buses not so tempting ...

Later, at the albergue, showered, most of the clothes in the wash, relaxing in the ambience, awaiting pilgrims to hijack ... train line runs to Vigo via Redondela, a short day's walk away ... tomorrow ... maybe past ... though not Portugal ... another day for that ... last night the feet were revolting, the soles threatening to erupt if further tarmac excesses attempted ... the off road routes are kinder, having energy ... soft shoulders of grass, plantain, leaves ... tarmac, like concrete, mostly inert ... two years ago the Tui to Pontevedra 50km was too much ... the challenge is always tempting to the mind ... now the feet are asserting their rights ...

Later still, fresh clothes packed, out in search of fruit for this evening and WiFi for you, since the albergue strangely require a sign up via phone ... errm, no phone ... shrug ... the beer in the bar with wifi serves crisps as a contemporary nod to tapas ... and a counterpoint to planned fruity supper ...

As for pilgrim tales, none yet ... maybe later ... and no new photos either ...

Rain in the forecast, after several warm sunny days ... unusual for Galicia at this time of year, they say .... let's see ...

Santiago to Caldas de Reis ...

Deep sleep until 5 am ... second, dreaming sleep until past 8 ... ready for breakfast after skipping lunch and dinner ... brain and body reset and ready to go ... blue arrows elusive at first, so head south, along the road to Padron ... pleasant off road track appears ... blue arrows for Fatima, yellow for Santiago ... winding along, adding a few kilometres to the hard shoulder option ... no rush ... Padron easy enough today at less than 25 km ... passing incoming Camino Portugues pilgrims ... almost there!

A brief and pleasant interlude with John, from Scotland via Cornwall amongst other places ...public school "education" mentioned significantly, though there is no time to continue, standing on the side of the road, he going to Santiago and Fisterra ... the only pic on a camera shy day ... he tells of an alternative route over the mountains from Padron ... and his discovery of pilgrimming as an antidote to depression ... back at base, when it returns, he walks again ...

Padron arrives rather soon on a warm sunny day ... after lunch it still seems early at 2.30 ... and since lunch includes veggie soup, with an assurance it is meat free, an unexpected meaty appearance and texture arrives with the main course chips ... Spanish improving in time for the switch to Portuguese, but far from passable ... it is eaten anyway, possibly once a chicken, which clinches the onward walk, not as penance, the mind deals with that, but to burn off the heavy energy. .. of course, once the challenge is down the target soon becomes Caldas, to make a 40 km day ... the afternoon on the hard shoulder ... gruelling but doable ... indeed Caldas was the last albergue before Santiago on the walk up from Porto ... albeit with an early, pre-dawn start ...

The albergue is welcome to a very tired pilgrim ... warmish shower with trigger happy auto off button notwithstanding. .. plenty of space ... a lower bed with top free for clothes ... arriving at 6.45 means residents are out dining and further reports seem unlikely ...

Tomorrow is a short 20 to Pontevedra, then let's see from there ... anyway Portugal is just two or three days away ....

Fisterra to Santiago ...

Last evening's sunset from the top of the mountain was fine ... camera even managed a fiery shot ... supermoon a while later, from further down ... the scenic spot a little perilous to descend in the dark ... reflecting on the resurgence of pagan forms, born of awe at the power, beauty and mystery of the movement of the celestial entities ... after a long and often violent debate with Christian powers, the daily disappearance of Sun,  falling off the edge of the earth, only to show up later on the other side, commonsense once the spherical form of planets and stars was accepted ... makes this pilgrim still awed, but surely less so, processing the images through apparatus accepting contemporary science ... and still preferring the formless to Pagan, Christian or other structures, started to help explain the Mystery, inevitably evolving to keep power hungry people in control ... usually blokes ... as Taoism says: The Tao which can be explained is not the immortal Tao .... and yet we keep trying ... even Taoists ...

A fond farewell with Fatima last night ... Michele this morning ... and out early to walk, without a plan ...towards Cee, 16 km on a fine sunny morning  ... mostly coastly. .. a group of pilgrims with packs at the bus station looking uncomfortable, almost guilty ...passing oncoming pilgrims ... the beautiful Julia, 23, from Lithuania, with her handsome home made staff .... walked from Lisbon and loved it ... mostly alone on the Lisbon to Porto stretch ... a gentle soul .... next Lisa, last seen in San Vicente de la Barquera, where we dined together ... moving slower, still smiling .. and so to Cee. .. for the first coffee since La Espiral, 3 hours and the next stage is the bus to Santiago, a night there, the Fatima Way south ... blue arrows to follow ... walking backwards on the Portuguese Camino more tricky, though surely common ground to cover ... and if another sign is helpful, why not the synchronicity of Fatima the place and Fatima the goddess?

The bus to Muros follows the coastline ... a small one with local old folks going home with their shopping ... halfway, a happy verbal play ... we can see Cee across the sea ... though Spanish speakers will have spotted the C is neither soft nor hard but lisped as in think ... never mind it was fun to try ... the walking route goes up and over here ... two or three days over the mountains  ... beautiful small towns at every bay, still with tourists, but not pilgrims ... at Muros the big bus from Fisterra is waiting ... plenty of pilgrims aboard ... more word play approaching Noia, but the joke breaks down ... and the brain is weary ... maybe the high energy of excited pilgrims, reverting to more familiar sleeping patterns ... conversations more traditional too ... less space between the stories ... perhaps the old energy from the sacred stones sat upon last night ... two nights broken sleep .... let's see what a simple single room at the Hospedaria San Martin Pinario can do ...

Info on the Fatima Way not so easy to find ... the usual suspects say it is not a Santiago Camino ... just happens to start at the cathedral ... Porto tourist info more helpful, printing out proposed stages and open albergues ... anyway it looks like it is basically the Portuguese Way walked backward as far as the border at Tui ... buses also available, though there was never a taboo ... all is allowed ... including another €23 peaceful room in the eaves of the old seminary ... including buffet breakfast. .. and a photo of the never-ending restoration work ... a job for life if you have a head for heights and the requisite skills ... reflecting on the scaffolding, wondering how they built it in the first place ... possibly pre-fabricated in a parallel universe and dropped onto the foundations by space ship ...

Julia passed info and Anna, 26 year old German also ... she walked from Porto before ... this time it was the Frances from Pamplona ... sorry, no pic ... and since the WiFi is weak at the Hospedaria, taking advantage of the friendly US evangelists ... Jose still there, a good base while he resets ... and strong WiFi in the bedroom at La Espiral maybe another factor in the brain energy malfunction ... another bonus for tonight, along with single bed, linen, generous bath towel ... the afternoon nap was good and an early night appealing ... maybe rest the stomach and fill up in the morning ... reset the system as well as the walk ... no more fellow travellers so far, though Lisa's lazy wander shows there may yet be more ... not to mention the wonderful Muxia-Fisterra extension. .. and the excellent scenic bus tour round the coast of Galicia ... after posting, Nuria arrives off the later bus, with two staffs ... the first was given to her by an old man who asked her to pray for him and his family ... the second from an Irishman, unable to carry it on the plane home ... she signs in at the Hospedaria ... some philosophy ensues over a beer ... finished her studies in Literature and Gardening ... hoping for an epiphany on the Way ... what to do next .... nothing came, so she will find a job in Barcelona, maybe receptionist which she has done before ... train home the day after tomorrow ... after much male energy today has been a treat, with four beautiful young perigrinas ... the future ...

To the end of the earth ...

Adjusting the rhythm a little ... not so much walking here ... folks celebrating their Caminos ... headphones with Ohm Mani Padme Hung mask the noise ... rising later, after porridge, a pack free walk up the mountain on the, ancient unmarked path ... the cape tapering towards the lighthouse down the zigzag made road ... symbols of journey's end ... burnt clothing, a lone boot ... a sticker suggesting Jerusalem shows the pilgrimage never ends ... the destination shared by the three Abrahamic, monotheistic faiths ... Jehovah, God, Allah ... their prophets, Moses, Jesus, Mohammed ... their followers living in this powerful place in peace and harmony ... one day in a parallel universe perhaps ... meanwhile, Islam has its own pilgrimage, Mecca ... unbelievers not permitted ... though some confusion here what the belief is, since an all powerful separate divine entity appears a commonality ...

Warm and sunny at the bar by the lighthouse ... the sun over Portugal ... reflecting on the twin poles pulling my heart ... England, particularly Stanhope, children, friends in touch today ... Portugal, project wanting to manifest in the marginal lands. .. anyway, winter encourages southward for now ... and whilst walking is preferred, faster modes are available ...

Michele makes lunch ... pasta with a spicy sauce, salad ... this evening the sunset and rising super moon ... leaving soon, since the daylight is shorter again ... clear skies ... pics maybe not so great with the trusty Tab camera ...

Meanwhile, as promised, here's the beautiful Fatima ... some seascapes and some watercolours by the very talented Joan ...

Protection

Apparently the Milky Way somehow mirrors the Camino Frances,  cosmically ... angelic protection is available along the Way, spiritually ... the Knights Templar took care of the Pilgrims, historically ...and in the temporal realms these days, secular support is all around, not least from the police, who monitor albergue registers, put plain clothes officers posing as pilgrims on the road ... and come down very hard on transgressors ... all of which makes the pilgrimage safe for solo walkers ... cities the odd exception ... but that's cities for you ...

Another safety issue is one not faced by the ancient pilgrims ... traffic ... a thorough researcher would offer statistics at this stage ... clearly there is conflict between purist rote planners, marking the historical routes and authorities responsible for preventing collisions between pedestrians and motor vehicles ... on the approach to Santiago on the French Way, underpasses have been incorporated into the footpaths ... another surface for the graffitists to express their profound and profane feelings in artistic form ... in other places notices advise that the route is shared and you take your chances on the hard shoulder, with some very interesting road crossing required ...

Then there are the joints ... lots of folks walking with two poles, others with a staff ... which historically may have also served as a weapon against dogs or bandits ... some favour boots to protect against wet feet and to support ankles ... which is maybe an over-protection of a joint which flexes in many directions and if constrained  for lateral movement could cause a fall ... and weaken the tendons and ligaments ...

Developing this theme of over-protection ... commonsense is not always as sensible as it first appears ... take the question of risk ... a researcher, following a hunch, set up an experiment with a car driver, driving a measured route, once with a seat belt on and once without (the illegality of the second run is not addressed, though a real road with real hazards is part of the experiment) ... with the seat belt, the driver increased his sense of risk by driving faster and closer to the car in front ... confirming the Paul Daniels insightful quip, that the best road safety feature would be a spike in the middle of the steering wheel ... keep the driver focused ...

In another counter-intuitive statistic, it seems people who know how to swim are more likely to drown ... because they are more likely to be in deep water in the first place ...

Protection from invisible dangers is harder to find ... WiFi is ubiquitous, its dangers not yet established ... similarly the mobile signals from masts ... the devices themselves ... Faraday Cages exist for electronic pollution free zones ... soon B&Q will stock them ...

Well, this topic has gone on long enough ... time to share ... and hear what you think, dear reader ...

Muxia to Fisterra ...

If Santiago is the end of the Christian pilgrimage, this is the end of the pagan one ... a different energy and a very big full moon ....

For clarification, Fisterra is the local name for Finisterre ....the end of the earth and long, wrongly, considered the westernmost point of the European mainland ... that turns out to be closer to Muxia...

Reflecting along the solo walk, how in child psychology it is known that ignoring unwanted behaviour and rewarding good behaviour works ... yet the idea that this works at other levels is less well understood or applied ... it is attention energy at every level ... how easily parents get drawn into dramas with naughty children ... how easily we all get drawn into dramas of politicians ...

Early on the road, rested, belly full of porridge with honey and banana, carbs loaded yesterday too, so it's 30+ km, 15 without stopping until the first bar at the halfway mark ... Begonia serving with a smile ... Thaddeus, Colorado cowboy, takes a separate table ... says before the camino he never talked to strangers ... raised Lutheran, now wants to rise above those Christian differences .... and other traditions ... Buddhist, Hindu, Muslim? Don't get me started, we'll be here all day ... luckily for him we are going in opposite directions ... a Korean young woman, last seen in Leon, goes past towards Muxia ...

At a donativo space Jesus, friends with the San Martin Monastery crew, suggests the Albergue Espiral, run by his friend Fatima ... which takes a little finding, but well worth the effort ... a pagan setting sun-full moon ceremony proposed for tomorrow ... Joan and Matthieu, last seen on the del Norte, are off to the lighthouse tonight ...  after 30km a hot shower, a rest and a few words for you, dear readers, are the priorities ... and a wander to the beach to see the moon over the bay ... Elena, from Carolina, last seen with Jem, the poet, at Astorga, arrives with friends ...

Photos of the lovely Fatima tomorrow maybe ... a local, she opened the hostel after walking the Camino, wanting to do it with love ... Michele, also lovely, hospitaleiro from Italy checks us in, offers food ... and love, of course ...

Rainy rest day in Muxia ...

After deciding to take a rest day, more for the sake of knees and ankles than tiredness ... the rhythm of daily walking with the pack is in balance with the energy flow ... occasional challenging 40s, steady 20s themselves a rest ... and today's rain reinforces resting, preventing local wandering ... albergue a convivial shelter ... with wifi ... noting also the shoes, tightly laced to prevent blister causing movement, put pressure on the foot, still slightly bruised from the San Vicente fall ...

Yesterday's shopping trip enables home cooking and more stores than can be sensibly carried ... maybe another day's worth for tomorrow ... a drier albeit cloudy day, before the return of the Sun for the walk to Finisterre. .. if the forecast is correct, of course ... anyway, bypassing Santiago and walking directly to Pontevedra looks possible ...

Musing on the mechanisms of fear ... individual, familial, societal, national, international ... how have we travelled so far from Love at all levels? Wisdom traditions suggest: As above, so below ... where to start? In evolutionary time humans become increasingly complex on the journey from single cell to billions of cells co-operating sub-consciously along with symbiotic fellow travellers ... raising the much derided and excellent question as to why there are still life forms at other levels ... forcing us to acknowledge that evolution is an on-going process ... other forms maybe usurping the homo-sapien role since we seem to have developed a strand of homo-stupido somewhere during the step change of consciousness ... not only thinking, but also thinking about our thinking ... a process blocked by everyday entertainments and painkillers like alcohol, drugs, television and social media ... the good news perhaps that in a unity of infinite parallel universes, focusing on a 3D one that no longer serves only energises it, whether we think it good or bad .. better hold it all in awareness and focus fully on the more beautiful world our hearts know is possible ... indeed at the individual level it already exists. .. and since others concur along the Camino and elsewhere transcending nationality, internationally too ...

In local news, in 2002, an oil tanker, the Prestige, hit rocks and created an ecocidal disaster for local sea life ... along with beaches from Portugal to France, and the humans depending on a clean sea and beautiful beaches ... compensation helps, though not the deceased marine life ...

In regional news, the EU funded municipal albergue up the hill, modernist concrete devoid of soul, never mind utensils to make the kitchen useful, undercuts the locally owned hostels at €6, struggling for a living at €11 a bed ... Jose also notes the donativo beds at the monastery undercut and pay no taxes ... anyway he is not bitter, just observing with a wry smile ...

In meteorological news, this morning's drenching passes over to a dull day, but ok for a stroll round town and down to the restaurant ... where Virginia arrives ... from Hertfordshire via Costa Rica ... having walked the Way, assessing life with an independently minded mother not always able to manage nor willing to admit it ... drawn to co-housing models of intentional community living ... good connection over another good meal ... Jose says the family also own three boats, so the fish is fresh ...

Nori, Japanese refugee from the soulless and washing machine and drierless municipal albergue, the only new arrival so far ... making four with Friedhelm (Fred) and Ahn. .. four other Koreans having taken the bus to Santiago ... tomorrow ... let's see ... feet already grateful and ready for the 30km to Fisterra ...

Dumbria to Muxia ...

Stopping for a second coffee, at 11.11 on 11.11. (16) is noted ... and after the previous large cafe con leche for €2 the cafe solo with a dash of aguadente plus a biscuit and tortilla for €1 comes as a surprise ... winding back, this morning's early dream time has a lightly held tale of the journey from Paradise, the evolution of consciousness, the exploration of separation, the consequent descent into the madness of violence, war ... increasingly surreal scenarios in politics, ethics, religion, economics ...and parallel possibilities of progress, peace ... the return to Love ... discovering that we already are what we were seeking at the deepest level ... and all is well ... todo bien ...

Antonio comes out from the bar to practice his English ... Molly and Dylan pass by, then Phil ... travelling together since St Jean ... later Dylan, at 20 experiencing existential angst from a traditional Sunday Christian upbringing, discovering Buddhism and a way out of suffering, developed on the Camino over 30+ days walking ...

At San Martin an old monastery, given to a group of pilgrims many years ago developing a community without religious form ... restoring the ancient buildings ... planting crops in spirals, crafts, music ... tea, coffee, food, accommodation all offered donativo ... Ricardo gives the guided tour ... most of the elements are present, the wavelength works ... the frequency not quite aligned ... reflecting along the way whether the old energy of Christian form, the meat eating, smoking are blocking ... and no need to understand ... just resonate, recognise it ... down the road a wandering monastery resident hears the reservations, a flash of reaction, then a considered response ... to each their own ...

After wandering wooded tracks, up and down, all at once ... the sea!

And so to Muxia in perfect time for a menu del dia ... a tureen of soup with squid and veg, a large plate of today's catch from this fishing town, red wine ... then Gary, last seen at Portomarin ... a catch up, some philosophy. .. a recommendation for an albergue ... which already looks like home for a day or so ... hospitalero owner Jose, full of heart ... laundry washing and drying ... 5 Koreans, one doing the Camino on a unicycle ... of course ... and Fred, motorcycling German who arrived a few weeks ago and hasn't left ... time to treat the legs and feet ... enjoy the very special energy of this beautiful seaside town in winter ...

Vilaserio to Dumbria ...

Since Sun is late arriving and bar is 8 for opening, first sleep until 6 goes through second, dreaming sleep until just before 8 ... some judged bread from yesterday, dampened with spring water, sweetened with honey tastes delicious and guilt free ... coffee and cake at the bar is curtailed when Paul loses his money + passport pack, usually clipped to his trousers ... he says he is shaking with fear ... after all, it is only those objects that really count ... somehow they have briefly popped into a parallel universe for us to explore a drama ... returning together to the dormitory, he goes through everything again ... while this guilt free co-habitee prepares to unpack his sack ... then he finds it, relief follows fear and I open the unspoken judgement of where else it could be ... shame and guilt ensue for poor Paul ... that's a lot of emotions so early in the morning ... offers a 20 as penance, 10 as repayment for earlier gift to cover breakfast ...

Paul's story is poignant. .. early experiments with psychotropic substances revealed deeper realities ... more sensible ones intervened with working and breeding ... a career in research and development in the aircraft industry ... as children left, his wife developed early onset Alzheimer's and in line with her decline, late stage capitalism dropped R&D in pursuit of short term shareholder gain ... after ten years nursing his wife and increasingly disenchanted with work, she was ready for a nursing home, Paul retired, set off walking ... and fell in love on the Camino ... also exploring those deeper realities from his youth ...

At the first bar Paco serves coffee and briefing for albergue ahead ... elicits info about pilgrims on the road ... thinning out now ... even though many are coming back this way, since the route is only circular at the end ... this pilgrim considers options for today and ahead ... walk or bus back to Santiago, rest and reset for Portugal ... find a coast path south to Vigo and the Portuguese route ... which thought makes the alternate route west today, Muxia then Fisterra, more helpful ... anyway a good early lunch at Oliveiroa sets up some possibilities, since stopping now, with fuel in the stomach and willing legs, far too soon ...at the junction, after a fine climb, it is 11 to Cee, 4 to Dumbria. .. which feels not only enough, but also on the right trajectory ... north-west first, then south ... tomorrow a shorter day after today's 30+ ...

Passing the large municipal albergue on the way into town, it takes a while to find the pension Argentino .... €25 for room, sheets and towels and hopefully some heat in the radiators to dry the clothes still wet from yesterday ... though the log fire in the bar is compensation ... clothes can wait for a service wash and dry in a day or two ... maybe a rest day overdue too ...