Santiago to La Caridad by bus and foot ...

Yesterday morning three options were offered: North to Ferrol, North-East cross country to Ribadeo, South towards Santiago ... bus options not considered or researched ...
This morning, organism well rested and awake early for next adventure, option one was bus to Ribadeo, though internet info not entirely clear except to suggest an early bus ... meaning the meander along to the bus station was anxiety free, general direction known, ALSA booth closed until 9 am, nearby machine offers info, sells ticket with reserved seat ... all in English or other languages if you prefer ... hopefully the bus will have a driver, though they are working on that too ...  mass unemployment or liberation from slavery?

All this in the context of the Polish chaps and their latest technology, on their wrists, showing kph, location, route required, distance covered ... even the time (as we took the photo it was 17.17 and the Camino marker showed 17 km to Santiago) ... all very useful, though somehow getting in the way of a more intuitive experience, opportunities to discover serendipity. .. as well equanimity when plans are thwarted ... subject not examined in depth, though perhaps the technology sometimes malfunctions. .. philosophy touched upon, old beliefs considered desirable, Faith that they will reunite us with the infinite in the (our) end ... a lifetime of sins forgiven as long as repentance occurs before the last breath ... perhaps readers more conditioned to this story could elucidate ... anyway, we agree that kindness in this life is key ...

Andres, the day before related interesting information about Arteixo ... the home of the founder of clothing corporation Zara ... sounding like a benevolent capitalist in the Quaker tradition ... certainly Arteixo had a warm energy ...

Into Ribadeo just after noon and soon on the road, over the bridge, out of Galicia, into Asturias, and a quick stop at the Albergue Camino del Norte and a large bowl of soup. .. and a photo of Alicia, serving the pilgrims with her parents. .. then a choice of Ways, Tapia and the coast, or Tol inland ... Tol road chosen, though best avoided next time ... coast has the advantage of closing off the West, National road to the East, leaving a simple corridor of options, including the generous hard shoulder of the main road ... though energy levels lower today and the Albergue at La Caridad enables a shorter day ... maybe 24km ... tomorrow Navia and maybe the train ...

Betanzos to Santiago

Belated research shows yesterday's Camino from Coruna unusual on two counts ... first it is less known than the Ferrol and poorly marked, second, and critically, it never went to Betanzos, but across to Bruma .... 27 km down the Ferrol Way ... still, Betanzos well worth visiting and making a great circular Way from Santiago, to Fisterra, Muxia, Neano, Arteixo, Betanzos and back ...

The official marker leaving town says 64 km to the Cathedral in Santiago ... usually broken into three stages ... crazy mind imagines it in one ... and after 12 + hours on the road it is done ... legs eager and running at 6 kph most of the way ... a 30 minute breakfast stop at 12 km, then more or less non-stop, 4 short breaks ... speed dropped for an hour's chat with Przemek and Jurek from Poland on the way to Sigueiro and a photo of them ... the only pic today ..  and after a late supper at San Martin Pinario, though not a bed since they are full, it's back to nearby second choice for a shower and snore free sleep ... next bed neighbour at Betanzos being rather noisy most of the night ... sorry for lack of creativity in today's post. .. normal service tomorrow perhaps ...

Arteixo to Betanzos

After a good sleep at the special Balneario de Arteixo, options are open, depending on where the energy goes ... no epic treks today ... map suggests 4 days across to Ribadeo ... Caminos Ingles crossing from Coruna and Ferrol for reflex return to yellow arrows ... bus direct from Coruna, an easy couple of hours early morning, suburbs all the way ...

Breakfast bar at 7am busy with young people still awake from Friday night ... a generous portion of tortilla and fresh bread fills the gap from last night's skipped supper ...

Coruna comes soon enough and bus station offers few options ... bus to Ribadeo not among them and left field long run to Santander on Paris bus falls down for lack of a seat ... feet, somewhat affronted by bus talk itch for a brisk walk 22 km to Betanzos, on the Camino Ways, though arrows conspicuously absent ... at early lunch tortilla, 12.30, the N-V1 is recommended, the old road to Madrid, which indeed arrives at Betanzos after much hard shouldering and a few breaks, including 7 km out at Bar Centro, where Andres and Sonia offer photo, good English from working in London, and a route to the coast on the way to Ribadeo ...

6.30 in town ... and pilgrim Albergue comfy enough for €6 and decision in the morning which way to go ... and how ...

Neano - Cabana to Arteixo

Up extra early and out in the dark, street lights and pavement assisting the 2km to Ponteceso and coffee .. after which some hard shouldering and adjacent farm tracking sees Pazos soon enough for coffee, then on to Bunio, where road forks ... left for Malpica on peninsula, right for fast road to Coruna ... Middle Way heads straight on, then right, along narrow roads through pine forests until the sea appears at Razo and another coffee and rest for legs ...local information suggests Caoin at 11 km good for lunch, via beach much of the way before strenuous ascent to test legs and lungs. .. Caoin beautiful and rather posh restaurant with fine view of the sea provides simple, filling meal, plus wifi to establish Arteixo, another 10 km on as place to stay ... only 11km from Coruna, but 45 plenty for today, what with all the upping and downing ...

Wandering in town, wondering where Hotel Baleanerio is, old couple with granddaughter take control, enlist three teenagers with mobiles, plus other random locals, locate hotel, provide escort and disappear, service rendered ... wonderful ...

Muxia to Neano - Cabana

Peaceful night and extra early waking brings breakfast in very early opening cafe ... first bus to Santiago providing pilgrim passengers ... plan today is to mostly skip lengthy coast path and faster for cars inland road for Coruna ... instead choosing The Middle Way, slicing off peninsulas, kissing colittorals, where rivers meet the sea, with bridges, hopefully ... meanwhile on a desk in Brussels is a map showing a European Grand Randonee along the coast from Nordcap in Norway to Cabo San Vicentina in Portugal ... however, as is known in philosophy and literally, littorally, the map is not the territory ... yellow arrow temptation teases awhile after Muxia, addiction soon broken and conversation with locals required to interpret rather loose tourist map and slack map reader ... Antonio in Quintan friendly and helpful, despite slightly morose photo ... soon striding along narrow hard shoulder on quiet asphalt road ... serene, lean walking machine keen for new camino, energy no longer for Santiago after Coruna, but Santander and the boat ... whether walking backwards on the Norte or bus and train assisted unclear, though a hola for Lola in San Vicente de la Barquera required  ...

At Ponte do Porto an interesting church and cafe convenient for coffee and writing whilst imagery is fresh ... on towards Laxe for lunch, route unfolding effortlessly ...fast progress along Middle Way, resisting lanes leading left, pleasures and pains of peninsular perigrination ... until Way becomes perilous with hairpin bends and abandoned for Lighthouse Way ... heavenly all the way to Laxe, not to be rhymed with lax or relax but lash, with a little uh at the end ... waves crash into rocks ... high on the ozone and sunshine ... spring flowers, birdsong ... after a good lunch the 12km or so to Ponteceso seems a breeze before 4 pm ... measures trickier off Santiago overmeasured Ways, but looking like a 40+, easy enough with pre-dawn start ... sorry, no pilgrims ... or Albergues. .. hotel room just before Ponteceso perfect after 11 hours on the road (including long lunch) ... dry and sunny ... a third of the way to Coruna, more or less ... later, lovely pic of Rebeca of the Monte Blanco ... and post sunset from bedroom window ...

Fisterra to Muxia

Early up, leaving dorm in darkness, two Canadian peregrinas, one Korean peregrino snoozing ... porridge with banana, apricots and honey fuels the legs for a fast first half, drizzle accelerating the pace, Lires halfway by 10.20 and first coffee stop ... Clement from Germany pointed towards Espiral, Daniel, from Portugal and Viola also ... plus deep conversation on matters philosophical and psychological with Daniel, a psychologist, working with homeless folks in Viana do Castelo ... an invitation to visit. ..

Sun appears for second half, though Brazilian peregrinas, Gina and Tania, are still caped up and delayed for warm chat, promise of Espiral tomorrow, staying today in Lires ... and an invitation to Rio de Janeiro ... what with Massachusetts, Tavira for dentist, Fatima insisting on prompt return, it looks like a busy time travelling ... though Stanhope also requires some attention ... and Atlantic maybe a sea too far ... Patty promising to return in summer ...

New Junta markers point in both directions, countdown plates to three decimal places, yet to be fixed, though not required except as souvenirs ... imagine the calculations required for such a pointless task ... graffiti not always admired either, though this one resonates ...

In the middle of nowhere, an hour from Muxia, Anton offers free coffee, home made biscuits and delicious sweet lemonade ... just lemons and mountain spring water ... he takes energy from Sun and a donation for more lemons ... on past three perigrinas from Wisconsin via Porto and in the restaurant for a menu del dia by 2.30 ... which seems quick for 30km ...

An idea for a rucksack with built in helium filled membrane takes form ... research required, though pack light enough today ...

Albergue@Muxia located, Jose from last time remembered, only three other pilgrims in so far ... one Italian, two German ... different vibe after Espiral, though that's only to be expected ...

Into the unknown tomorrow ... well, not unknown but without yellow arrows to follow ... Coruna the target. ..93 kms, longer on coast route ... tourist info offers maps ... options open for three or four day walk to Coruna, maybe Camino Ingles from there ... buses and hitch-hiking also possible ... weather forecast fair for two days before showers return ... cafe has early breakfast for fast start at first light ... let's see ...

Sun setting and rising again ...

Last night was clear enough for a fine show, a little cloud for contrast, a little cold for waiting ... and slipping into pagan mind, pre-dawn waking ensures return of light ... surely some magic at work ...

Italian pilgrims leave early, Argentine ones, Romina and Patricia(maybe Gallega?) appear later with Marvin, adopted from the shelter by Patricia ... lucky boy ... Sara from Anjana Albergue in Negreira sent them here ... connections of the heart ... FB too now ... and deep dive into other dimensions elicits story of near death experience from Romina ... possible link up in Coruna, let's see ...

Today's wander picks up the path from Mar de Fora heading up steeply for wonderful views ... around and up again for an amazing shot of Fisterra, second Sun shining from Espiral or thereabouts ... logical minds might see reflection from shiny surface, but ....

Picnic solo on beach, second successive spartan (and tasty) lunch brings average down to sensible, generous €15, after breathtaking, mouthwatering Sunday lunch with Maria, next on the route, only for coffee this time ...still empty, though season maybe a month away ... coffee just €1 so fresh fish the costly item ... fair enough since someone is out in the sea along the Coast of Death  to bring it in ... tourism folks may consider renaming the coast to be a little less threatening ...

Second stop, on the Muxia route into town finds two Canadian peregrinas without Albergue ... Maria and Helen, who check in for two days ... then head for lighthouse ... Korean man arrives, then three Italian perigrinas, also from Muxia ...

Which is tomorrow's early destination ... fond farewells tonight ... a wonderfully warm week in the Spiral family ...

Hot and cool ...

Two Spanish pilgrims set off early, without joining pizza last night or breakfast this morning (which included pizza) ... the heat of the energy at The Spiral too much perhaps ... certainly it captured the hearts of Ron and Sara, who came for a night and stayed for three ... reluctantly departing today ... Nora entranced also, a special young woman with a gorgeous smile and a heart free from fear ... wandering off to Cee, with plan to meet Ron and Sara there for onward trip to Santiago ...

An offer of summer hospitalero role declined, though certainly in the possibility field and accepted in another world ... quantum entanglement may help explain ... Patty, entangled beyond space and time, writes to enrich blog ... finding it concise to the point of being cryptic ... other readers have observed it ... maybe cryptic is better than precise, since all is provisional and certainty certainly best avoided ...

Ron balances heat of compassion with cool intelligence, a good combination to avoid the suffering often accompanying the identification with the suffering in the world, the feeling of impotence to affect it in any major way ... insight, also cool, perceives the infinite as also infinitisimal, avoiding the trap of psychosis, seeing every act of kindness resounding across the universe(s) ...

Late morning walk to lighthouse, filling bottle at Spring of Cabanas, brings coffee, WiFi and warm smile ... space for correspondence and blog ... walk past sacred stones and down to Mar de Fora beach, discreet enough for full skin exposure to hot Sun, as prescribed by Dr Paco ... cool breeze helps for a while, though burning a danger, along with drowning, a common occurrence on this side of the Coast of Death ... both resisted for retreat to cool Biblioteque Bar and earlier than usual writing ...

Cakey lunch suffices after fruit and bread from pack, then down to small, safe beach for swim ... cold enough and soon out ... back home to meet Bepe and Osvaldo from Italy, via St Jean and the French Way ...   Max and Katerina from Germany, who walked to Santiago from Porto and arrived here today by bus ...

Ute, also from Germany, joins team for tonight's supper, hopefully ready by 8 in time for sunset trip by 9 ... whilst two Argentine perigrinas and their little dog have headed to the Sacred Stones for sunset show and may eat later ... pic tomorrow maybe ...

Energy building for Muxia, but not just yet ... stuck in the spiral of Love for another day at least ...

Multiple personas ...

Sun temporarily obscured by early morning mist, still hanging around past the lighthouse and up to the Sacred Stones, creating a mystical ambience for meditation and reflection on the question of roles, personas, conscious, sub-conscious, generational ... those played through current incarnations, other incarnations, maybe other discarnate dimensions ...

First hand experience limited, though sense of no-self seen and reports from Patty suggest ghost realm and transcendent moment with her brought forth a Native American persona most beautifully ... previous pilgrim persona tuned into over a week of walking, subsequent NewYork persona, born of anxiety turned up at the end ... her call for the part of her left behind in Spain to be sent home (wherever that may be) hinting at this morning's exploration ...

Modern science, with its own disintegrated tendency, loves to label, the better to utilise substances to suppress symptoms ... in this case Multiple Personality Disorder, describing the phenomenon above, though pain pulls in the psychiatric intervention ... more accepting philosophical approaches may address root causes, often traumatic experiences in one or more of the personas ... trauma, of course has its own label and treatments ... Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. .. seen as past events recalled as if happening in the present, memories lodged or processed in the ancient parts of the brain, where nuance is not known ... only fight or flight, adrenalin rush producing fuel for chosen action, helpful in cases of attack by lions, but toxic in the system when not required ... Human Givens approach invites rewind of each event until memory is shifted to pre-frontal cortex and possibility of post traumatic order ... they say it works, though whether other life events are included requires further research ... a childhood of hundreds or thousands of traumatic events clearly a long process ... single or scores more amenable, in battle for example ... in another narrative war itself is examined, "Thou Shalt Not Kill" the question ... old English spelling of "souldier" a clue ...

Between these worlds, lives, incarnations, disincarnations, a veil is suggested by mystics ... "Going home without my burden, going home behind the curtain", sung by Leonard Cohen, sometime Zen Buddhist monk, amongst other personas, mostly held together, though a tendency to depression points to the challenge of the task ... David Bohm, Professor of Experimental Physics, with his own interpretation outside of Copenhagen and friend of K, also tending that way ... holding it all lightly the key ... the possibility of co-creating an incarnation in a heaven realm, proposed and practised by Fatima and friends ... and transcending all of it in the zero point field, the ground of being, the Unity, Quantum Soup or whatever you call it ... better still, rest in the mystery ... after the naming comes the describing and the fragmentation ... missing the mark, the original sin ...

Back in 3D land, a wander east for pilgrims finds Gigas, from Lithuania, thinking and drinking after his camino from St Jean ... still seeking the question let alone the answer ... in vino veritas perhaps, though unlikely ... more often damping the pain ... at the terrace bar for more writing, a discount on regular coffee, third visit in three days rewarded ... though half of draft post disappears ... north in search of quieter beach and Muxia route intercepted by Fatima and Michele returning from shopping in Cee in the car ... lift to beach declined, warning of dangerous currents noted ... aimless wander uncovers Ruta de los Faros, alternative Fisterra-Muxia route and quiet for Sunday lunch restaurant ... Maria, from Madeira, serves wonderful main course, mouthwateringly fresh fish, followed by two home made desserts ... lots of people come here, she says ... the season clearly not yet under way, afternoon warm sunshine notwithstanding ... Sol the cute dog watches hopefully ... a little off piste (though never piste off) wandering along the cliffs, then back home along the main beach path ... a chat with local bloke, retired sailor, his many travels ... at La Espiral pizza underway, new guests ... Manuel from Toledo, the other to be found later ...  sky clear for sunset show ... 

Proper pilgrims ...

Last night's supper was delicious, filling and proper Spanish late ... though staying up past bedtime is optional and overeating also ... nevertheless a late awakening and some digestive discomfort were the not unexpected consequences ... breakfast served by Michele at 8 was just us and earlyish walk to lighthouse rewarded by peace for brief meditation, sending Patty's portion of Spain across the ocean for re-integration ... a plaque commemorating Stephen Hawking, the quote not his most profound ... bottle filled at the magic mountain spring ...  Guillame and Delphine on the way up, having arrived yesterday ... and home to find the water is off ...all over town ...

Leo offers Fatima some ayurvedic massage ... fascinating and full on conversation at supper revealed background as functionary in wealthy monastery, existential crisis, discovery of dangerous heresy (that we are not separate) ... some old stories integrated into higher truth ...

Out for fishing pilgrims coming in from Cee ... coffee and juice at yesterday's terrace, already recognised as firm friend ... warm encounter with English man, Spanish wife, gorgeous twin boys .. have holiday home here and based in Marbella ...

Two sets of German pilgrims already have reservations, raising topic for today of what we mean by proper pilgrims ... please allow the exploration, it is free from judgement ... maybe best drop the proper for a start ... and bear in mind personal experience now includes reservations, onward baggage, comfy bedrooms, buses ... and never reached the freedom of wandering without money ... perhaps the purest state, though not without problems ... applying discernment,  recognising perception as always subjective, feelings of fakery sometimes arise.... dear Richard, recently deceased, had sharp analysis of freeloading as contrasted with freeliving ... he owned that role in past hippy life ... coming from some place of lack, accompanied often by addictions ... and adoption of other strays, human and canine ... sentient attention essential for validation, of course. .. authenticity maybe subjective, but often its opposite emanating from the frequencies of the entity ... anyway, dear readers, you may recall Juan, Argentine Peace Pilgrim and Juanma, part-time hospitalero, perceived here as pure ... others perhaps playing the game less convincingly ...

Santiago itself full of pilgrims of course ... by plane, bus, car, bike, horse, foot ... starting from Le Puy, Vezelay or beyond ... carrying belongings in rucksack or sending ahead each day ... seeking austere Albergues donativo, cheapo, a little more for more comfort. .. sleeping out, with or without tent ... level of assistance dependent on physical and sometimes mental capacity ... starting points also, and sometimes taken in stages according to holiday time from slavery ...

Topic to be continued ... evening meal to be prepared, teamwork with Nora, the answer to Simone's prayer yesterday, though he is late returning ... group photo of very convivial and slightly earlier supper for you ... sunset ceremony planned, but clouds intervene ... maybe tomorrow ...

be here now

After yesterday's post in the rather writery bar overlooking the harbour, La Espiral is buzzing  ... Fatima has arrived and offers her usual warm embrace ... her daughter Eva, having inherited and acquired her mother's ways  ... Michele basking in the beauty of it all ... Simone smiling and translating ... customers for the private room, Ron and Sara, from Israel ... soup for supper cooked and served by Simone ... Pierre arrives in perfect timing, a proper pilgrim (concept to be further examined) from St Malo ... dorm mate for the night and fortunately snore free ... philosophy goes deep with Ron, not identifying as pilgrim but challenging everything ... apparently rejecting religion in any form as dangerous ... along with ongoing conciousness ... baby and bathwater issue here, but much to be discussed, including the question of what is consciousness anyway ... continued this morning at breakfast as all sorts of questions are examined ... title of today's blog points to shared understanding of importance of living fully in the present moment where we are ...

At the bus stop Vitor, Judith and Ana await the Santiago bus, en route to Valenca and Viana do Castelo ...

After laundry off for vitamin D top up, mission to find some pilgrims arriving from Cee. .. Simone requests a beautiful female, though why he feels the need for a go-between, given his youthful good looks, many languages, massage skills and sociability is another question ... shared with him upon return ... at posh bar with view of sea and Way, two tourists approach via terrace, raced via side entrance where cheery Buenos Dias  is ignored by barman fully focused on other customers ... unoffended blogger takes adjacent table, begins your post patiently while their order is taken, served, amended to add ice to white wine, change cola to zero sugar (as if that may be less toxic) ... request for coffee given and received with smile, relationship later cemented with compliment on ambience ... beautiful young pilgrim offered La Espiral card, though not handsome Italian ... she doesn't show ...

Back for lunch with the family, joined by Leopold from Vienna and Olivier from France ... Pierre too, though he checks out later ... out again to closer ambush spot, though pilgrims fewer ... back along beach for feet treat in the sea, then Billy, Moya and Darragh appear, offer beer ... arrived today and heading for lighthouse later...some philosophy before they return to Hotel Miramar ... home for deep discourse with Fatima on love, life, death, parallel universes, our opportunity to create them ... all in the context of her smoking, her father's serious illness, her test of equanimity in challenging circumstances ... out for more writing, first draft disappears hmmm ... home for supper, prepared by Sara ...no young female pilgrims for Simone ... just three old men so far ... 

As for Muxia, Coruna, Camino Ingles ... all other universes ... here and now it's La Espiral, a world of love dreamed up by Fatima and friends ...

Santa Marina to Fisterra

The question of whether Santiago to Fisterra can be walked in two days is answered experientially ... in theory, of course, 89 km is doable in two days, even with lots of upping and downing and research will doubtless discover plenty who did it ... guide books suggest three or four days, but that is for more sensible pilgrims ...

Last night's dorm was full enough and we all enjoyed a serious snorer .... not an average regular kind of snore, but periods of calm, enabling a quick nap before a dramatic episode sounding like our snorer was being throttled ... possibly this was considered in the dorm, but equanimity held here and an early morning assisted the 45 km needed, plus a dearth of pilgrims and attendant photos to delay the day ... leaving Santa Marina before dawn meant a good climb captured the sunrise and the first coffee was only found at Olveiroa, yesterday's target, 13 km on ... a good breakfast of fresh juice,  tostadas with tomato pulp and olive oil, plus coffee, topped up the tank after last night's skipped supper ...

After which one of the best stages on all the Ways unfolds, up past the reservoir, a little hard shouldering to the Muxia junction, taken last time, then off road all the way to Cee and the sea ... two Uruguayan pilgrims briefly energising legs, then three Portuguese. .. all moving slower ... into town passing a Canadian family ... onto Corcubion, less than 15 km from home and a huge salad to scour the bowel, after town Joana, Polish volunteer Hospitalera tempts customers with conversation, offers of tea and news that her fellow host is a professional chef, before more upping and downing to Fisterra around 6 pm ... plenty early at this time of year, though last 2.5 km to the lighthouse barely considered ...

Simone does check in ... only one in dorm so far, bed reserved for three days ... weather set fair for a while ... after that, let's see ...