Rambling in the rain ...

The weather system bringing Arctic conditions to Weardale brings some heavy, warm rain ... extended breakfast philosophy with Marc and Luc passes the time and focuses Luc, sometime student of philosophy at the university, who decided instead to work it out for himself after two terms ... anyway, he has the free guide to the Via de la Plata, has donated several heavy books to the Pousada de Juventude, and is planning his route to Santiago ...

Since staying indoors all day is not an option, wet weather gear gets an outing to Continente, where Dao wine is to be found and since the palate is poor, choosing by the name of places visited seems as good a filter as any, especially if the name is Dao ... yesterday's choice was Reguengos, a fruity red from the village near Portalegre visited a while ago ... vegan lunch with Luc before he heads to the train ... and the time shared with a German family escaping the rather restricted charms of the Escargot Club lifestyle ... another campervan couple, Gill and Russ from Bingley, are having coffee at Santa Luzia and kindly share their table for more philosophy on the free life ...

Back at the hostel lounge, the television is showing traditional American cultural crap ... lots of shouting and shooting ... the casual violence certainly contributing to a decadent society where psychotic schoolchildren routinely massacre their fellow students, teachers and anyone else in the firing line ... it stays on, since someone is watching it, Belgian senior citizen Gert and our room mate, hopefully immune to playing out such roles and almost certainly without access to guns ... when he goes off leaving the villain full of bullets, the opportunity is taken to switch off ... soon reversed by the incoming viewer. .. interestingly, t.v. etiquette usually includes asking before switching channels, but rarely whether the machine of mass manipulation is to be on at all ... the joys of communal living in the mainstream world of lowest common denominators ...

Thoughts today are with Ulrika and Gerhardt, setting out on the Algarviana from Alcoutim today or tomorrow, with plenty of rain still in the forecast ... and with friends in Weardale and around, up to their knees in snow, all the drama of such extreme events, the opportunity for the helpful side of human nature to come to the fore ...

Updates, appointment and an invitation ...

Sun appears again this morning, some clouds too and warm enough ... pre-breakfast coffee with Marc, German troubadour, free thinker and frequencies align for a while ... he missed check in last night, due to late night singing and guitar playing and spent an uncomfortable night outside ...
Living the free life and considering a donkey to accompany him on his wandering ... and a dog ... tricky in the hostels, but helpful for keeping warm when sleeping out perhaps ... climate, of course, a great boon for living free and the Algarve climate is as benign as can be ...

Gudmund reports that David, Portuguese room mate from last time, has a job locally, whilst Diana reports that Diogo, the young pilgrim planning to walk the East Portugal route, has not yet returned to start ... though he may be camping, of course ... anyway, thoughts are with him, Darren on the Lisbon route and the Fantastic Five or six left near Salamanca as the weather turns cool and wet up there ...

Meanwhile, another Diogo, who can be seen on blogs over the years ... in Coimbra, San Enrique, Gibraltar, sends an invitation to visit him near Coimbra and catch up on his Erasmus adventures ... but first the dentist, on Thursday ...

A trip to the market secures the fruit and veg, to Pingo Doce for beans, chick peas, eggs, cheese and wine and stomach has a treat, without meat or fish ... stores for a few days ... some books from the charity shop for browsing ... laundry done ... rinsing out and drying on the pack sometimes needs back up ...

In the kitchen, Ophelia, Londoner via Essex (where lots of Londoners live as the centre has been taken over by shifty traders) ... a yoga teacher, more recently in Sheffield, living her dream in Tavira ... her own studio ... accommodation harder to find ... Tavira these days very popular with French and German folks ... English too, but we get everywhere ... maybe the story of London playing out here ... but where do the Tavira folks go? Diana, once of England, scathing about the decline of the Portuguese language ... the expectation that English is enough ... maybe French too, since many older Portuguese are fluent, having lived and worked there ... and as for Albufeira, she says it is no longer Portugal ...

A mostly rest day, just a little wandering around town ... a few showers and watching FB feeds from Weardale, very pretty in the snow (as long as you have nowhere to go) ...

By bus from Salamanca to Tavira

A good night's sleep in the simply comfortable Hostal and awake in good time for the stroll to the bus station, juice, coffee, churros, croissant. .. only water packed for the trip but a rest for stomach along with other parts is welcome ... tendons connecting feet tenderly remind mind how hard they have worked, how grateful for a proper rest .... not the Achilles which slowed Hannah, but ones at the top ... perhaps ligaments, anyway they are essential to the walker ...

Bus 75 leaves promptly and speeds to motorway awhile before becoming local, along N630 and even more local roads ... calling in at towns missed on the walk as well as some already visited ...after Placencia, a city skipped after Galiteo, it's back to motorway to Caceres ... another view of the high speed train bridge across the Rio Tejo ... that was a long day from Caceres to Canaveral ...

At a nearby seat, Beatrice, a student of English from the ancient university of Salamanca, engages in conversation. .. heading for Caceres and on to her family home near Badajoz, she tolerates some philosophy for a while ...

ALSA likes to keep the bus moving, so drivers change twice and if we want a pee,  we have to be quick ... and best to let the driver know ...

And so, into Seville just five minutes late ... plenty of time for a snack and to buy the EVA ticket ... proper express, direct to Huelva, next stop Vila Real, then Tavira ... and an hour gained crossing the border ... the one lost a couple of weeks ago ...  rain arrives lightly in Seville, heavier by Huelva ... by Tavira it's just damp, though the roads are wet ...

All good for a thirsty Iberia. .. if not for pilgrims or winter short sunshine break Brits ...

At the Pousada de Juventude, Joana is on duty, so a quick catch up ... Gudmund still here, having been robbed on the road ... highly unusual. .. Marina, from Russia, cooking supper, more folks in yet to meet ... porridge, having sat in the pack for over a week, serves as dinner ... plus a trip to the pasteleria for a delicious carob concoction ... and a beer ... it's been a long day sitting down and the feet are grateful for the enforced rest ... good to be back at home from home in Portugal!

Around Salamanca

Well, the ticket was easy enough ... Alsa ticket person speaking good English, 7.45 bus booked arriving 3pm, connecting EVA bus 4.15 ... hopefully at the same bus station ... senior discount applies and €28 seems a bargain for a trip of 500 km and 15 days walking ...

Old city very photogenic in the afternoon sun and near to the Cathedral the Albergue appears, where Ulrika is greeting pilgrims. .. none so far, so time for some philosophy ... including on what it is to be a pilgrim ... tourigrino recognised, though hard to define. .. probably best seen as a continuum from the Juans, Juanmas and Reiners, walking the Ways without money or back up, just trusting the universe, to the bus or car borne visitors to holy places ... in between youngsters testing their physical powers and enjoying a cheap holiday ... some solitude seems necessary here, but that may be special pleading. .. anyway, taking a rain break half way to Santiago is not hard core ... "when the going gets tough ... relax and find an easier way" ... the Via de la Plata Way will be there another day ... meanwhile, a photo of Ulrika and Gerhardt, heading off to their next challenge on the Algarviana from Alcoutim next week  ... and a remarkably easy return to the Hostal, conveniently located near the Bus Station, opposite the Chinese Cafe, where a glass of wine and a small plate of Russian Salad does for supper ... and for you, dear reader, a bonus post, to make up for the irresponsible retreat of next week ...

San Pedro to Salamanca

Later start for the short walk to Salamanca ... breakfast and a photo from Elena, then on the road at 8 ... and having ignored Rafael's advice to add a couple of kilometres for the better route via Morille, discover the long, straight tarmac road, showing no signs of Roman heritage or indeed hand painted yellow arrows ... just the occasional new official route post, though not needed since the city is visible all the way ... a miserly soft shoulder serves the walkers, Sunday sporty cyclists pass in packs, with plenty of "Buen Camino" encouragement ... mind exploring options for coming rain and even snow ... most radical involves retreating to Tavira to rest, await the return of Sun and maybe see Joaquim to sort the teeth, including two fillings removed by almond chocolate bar in Almaden ... no interest in testing wet weather gear for the whole week, and whilst Tavira also has rain forecast, at least it will be warmer rain and there will be shelter and a kitchen to cook vegetarian food for a while ... a retreat for the hard working and uncomplaining stomach ... which is wondering what happened to sweet potatoes, cabbage, sourdough bread, porridge ...

At 5km before the city a village offers coffee and a fine cycle and walking path, segregated from the cars and very popular with Sunday strollers all the way into the city ... they find tarmac congenial, though surfaces with more life are occasionally available ... N630 and big brother arrive from the east ... on their own way since the pass of Bajar and leaving pilgrims peaceful, if short of options for refreshment and beds ...

Historic centre very impressive and bustling with tourists. .. tourist info kindly dispenses maps and a free guide to the Via de la Plata ... worth a read on the bus, though whether the weight is worth the effort after the rain break, we'll see ... clear directions to the bus station are completely beyond the capability of this country boy, who spends the next few hours engaging locals in conversation to find it ... good practice in Spanish and a fair wander in the sun, until it is located, along with a cafe operated by Chinese folks ... much easier than negotiating meat free options and all the hidden bits of ham, chicken stock and so on ... not to mention the over processed bread ... number 84 it is then (stir fried vegetables), plus boiled rice ... fresh orange juice and a coffee complete lunch for €8 ... wifi shows nearby Hostal for €25 and regular buses to Seville ... 7.45 in the morning is favourite, arriving in plenty of time for a connection to Tavira ... well, that's the plan ... time for some more sightseeing without the pack ... and a ticket to Seville ...

Valdeverde to San Pedro

Last night's warm bar and thoughts of snack turned into another full meal ... with leftovers stashed for today's picnic ... Albergue cold, as expected, but warm enough in bed with sleeping bags under bedclothes, and awake refreshed for an extra early start ... the idea to pick up the stage from Fuenterrobles early enough to make the 28k comfortable ... into the dark at 7.15, alerting local dogs, briskly along the road, legs eager, temperature encouraging speed ... first bar at 4.5km does not slow the pace, being closed ... maybe the lack of coffee increases the pace ... in any case, Fuenterrobles arrives at 9.15, sky is clear, Sun is up, breakfast is served and 10 am departure feels like a new day for a steady sub-30 stage for 2 Albergue options plus a Casa Rural ... and a short stroll into Salamanca tomorrow ...

Roman road much in evidence, with authentic looking pillars marking distance, though whether they are distressed artificially or from being buried for a thousand years and more is not clear ... dropping into centurion mode awhile and marching briskly covers the ground and distract the mind as altitude is gained gradually, then steeply up to the summit of the Pico de Duente, a view of Salamanca and a chat with Rafael, early retired from banking and sometime pilgrim on the Primitivo ... living locally, we share the gradual descent until he turns off ... having encouraged an alternative route into Salamanca in the morning ... and advised of rain in the forecast from Tuesday. ..

Focus on lunch energises the legs for the last hour, since 4pm is getting late, even for Spain ... on the way into town an old chap comments on the pace ... briefly explained ... Albergue and Bar Elena clearly marked and through the door at ten past four ... more or less as planned ... tortilla and salad fills the gap and a full supper is proposed for later .... Albergue very warm and cosy, without bunks and nobody else checked in ...

Another stage picked up from Gronze.com proposed itinerary ... a short Sunday stroll tomorrow and time for sightseeing in Salamanca ... as for San Pedro, nothing much to report, apart from the welcome, warm bed and food at Elena's ... and today's 40+ keeping the average over 30 kpd. ..

Aldeanueva to Valdeverde

A deep and restful sleep and a little later on the road ... literally, since the Roman road has been appropriated by the N630 and off road alternatives are patchy ... hard shoulder rather thin and perilous enough for a major walking route ... fortunately most of the traffic is up on the motorway ... light at 7.30, but Sun lingers longer, hiding behind mountains for a while ... meaning winter hat and gloves employed for the first time since snowy Newcastle ... it seems that Spring is not keeping up with this racing pilgrim ... though slowing down today, despite brief flirtation with a possible 43k ...

Banos de Montemayor and coffee comes soon enough ... a good looking spa town, last in Extremedura (unless you are going south) ... after which some significant investment has meant a reconstructed Roman road to lift us over the pass and into Castile y Leon, where the signage changes its form ... no more marble cubes with plastic plates pointing nowhere ... in design, function comes before form, as regular users of teapots may have observed .... the 8 km to the proposed bed in Calzada de Bajar takes a while in the sunshine as the pace slows, with frequent stops ... a pretty village, with plenty of bed choices (heating being a key factor at this altitude) and only one Bar, which is open and serving lunch ...

Manuel offers to take the photo by the marker showing progress in the first fortnight ... making the Way while the Sun shines, and already stage 16 on Gronze.com ... rest days maybe reserved for rain, though body is not demanding respite so far ...

At the bar, Charo serves a lovely lunch, then Jimmy arrives on his bike, with updates from yesterday's Fantastic Five progress ... Super Seven apparently, with Gustavo and Jimmy joining the walkers, while Hannah takes Jimmy's bike onto their off route destination ... teamwork!

Jimmy heads off, another 20 plus in mind, while research locally reveals intended Casa Rural beds fully booked ... Albergue shunned and Valdeverde, 8km further, the destination ... en route Tomas stops in his truck for a chat and reveals Reiki skills, demonstrated by diagnosing the right big toe injury and applying healing ... feedback on results in future blogs ...

Into Valdeverde at 5.15 and the first person encountered reveals she has the key to the Albergue ... no other pilgrims about, no heating or WiFi, but comfortable enough, with hot shower ... bar has wifi, though weak ... let's see whether the plentiful pics arrive, or wait for another day ..,

Galisteo to Aldeanueva

Yesterday afternoon's adventure set a special challenge today ... 38k day having an extra 10 ... though on the plus side, it enabled the photo of the Fantastic Five, some more conversation with them, plus Gustavo, and the useful information that when a herd of 30 + curious cows charge towards an intruder in their field, one tactic is to walk confidently towards them, calling Hola or Hello, the lingo less important than the tone ... causing them to turn round and run away ... family and friends will doubtless find such goings on familiar and amusing, another plus point!

The trick today was to treat the 10k tarmac stage left over from yesterday as a preamble to the main event and Las Emigrantes' 7am breakfast meant most of that was done before the Sun showed his face. Second breakfast in Carcaboso plus bocadillo for the picnic set up the 38k day nicely ... off before 10, 5 kph for 8 hours, short lunch break and in for beer and tapa by 6.30 ...

After a steep climb, it was sandy tracks and paths through cork oak forests for hours on end ... no tarmac, no pilgrims or other humans, warm Sun, cool breeze. .. occasional short rests and wondering how the Fantastic Five, or is it Six now, have managed today ... having carelessly set off on the extra long stage, who knows when we will meet again? Perhaps Pasqual will update us all ...

Tomorrow, a shorter day, climbing out of Extremedura ( named maybe for summers, these days in early Spring have been extremely pleasant), into Castila y Leon and on towards Salamanca ...

A good supper, a couple of glasses of wine and a comfortable bed awaiting ... no people pics, for obvious reasons, though the Roman Arch is impressive at Capperra ...

Canaveral to Galisteo

Breakfast at the Albergue being rather late, at 8, and a longish stage planned to enable tomorrow's obligatory 38k without intermediate services ... the idea is take breakfast at Grimaldo, 8k away and Gronze.com's proposed starting point for tomorrow ... Michel the only other pilgrim up and waiting for the light ... so, out and up steeply into pine woods on sandy paths as the horizon all around wakes up ... a short diversion to Grimaldo to find nothing open, a short return to the route for a makeshift banana and honey pastry breakfast from the pack, and swiftly on through scrubland and past an intriguing set of security cameras on tall towers, behind high fences ... who lives there? Next, an arrow war at a junction, with a big sign suggesting an alternative Way via Riolobos ... arrows all over the place but what to choose? Imagining the shorter and official way was left, having fewer arrows and guessing the interlopers were pressing their case, that's the choice and less than an hour later happily surprised to arrive at the imagined lunch stop of  Galisteo before 12 .... after hooking onto WiFi at the bar, enjoying a a shandy with generous tortilla tapa ... realised it was Riolobos on the alternative route ... hey ho, on we go, 2 hours on tarmac of quiet minor roads and in Galisteo in good time for lunch after wandering through the impressive walled town ... Maria offers rice in seafood sauce, followed by cod with chocolate tart for dessert ... and her photo in front of the mural along with a cheery "see you soon" ... if only she knew ... plenty of time for the 11k to Carcaboso, leaving a long enough 38k for tomorrow ... however ...

Finding exit arrows absent, an optimistic confidence in intuitive route finding leads along tracks towards Carcaboso, visible in the distance ... tracks lead to fields, cows, and the river, on the other side of which lies the road required ... common sense finally prevails and two hours after leaving Galisteo, it's back again to find Michel having a beer, followed some time later by Franziska, Pasqual, Julia and Hannah, who have arrived barefoot much to the amusement of local folks ... solidarity with the suffering Hannah, with aching achilles tendons ...

Meanwhile, Gustavo has arrived and is staying at the Hostal, the others at the Albergue, along with Jimmy, cycling German ... this rather tired "tourigrino" takes the soft option at the Hostal ... breakfast is at 7, leaving time enough for an extra long stage in the morning ... other options are available, as always, but starting on the right side of the river ( or the left side, to be precise), will ease progress as well as following arrows and packing some food for a picnic ... let's see!

Caceres to Canaveral

Awake early and quite clear that a rest day was not required ... brief research suggested a long day required instead, without services, so after an orange and a banana in the room, it was out onto rehearsed route, easy enough and coffee and churros found along the way ... today's cultural offer the chance to watch churro chef squeeze a spiral of thick batter into a vat of hot fat and produce the doughnuts ready for snipping with scissors ... from then it was four stages of around 11k each to the night's bed ... first 11, hard shoulder and track to Casar de Caseras, a handsome town offering an Albergue, several bars and a briefly considered bus back for history, leaving shorter stage for tomorrow ... coffee and cake then the second 11, maybe a bit more, is wonderful, climbing gradually into cow country, dry stone walls and fences containing the cows and the Way ... clear blue sky, N630 far to the left, A66 motorway far right ... the middle Way elevated and peaceful ... picnic of avocado and oats in water and honey (not wanting to carry too much food), with a view of the lake created by the damming of the Rio Tajo, or Tagus as it becomes across the border ... third 11, certainly less, but seemed like more around a diversion to avoid construction works on the new Madrid high speed train track ... including a stretch beside the reservoir on the hard shoulder of the reappeared N630 ... to the closed lakeside Albergue for a rest for the last 11 to Canaveral ... up a track to discover the Fantastic Five Pilgrims having their picnic ... you don't see one for three days, then there are five! Names still being learnt, but it is a combination of German speaking Swiss and Austrian, Italian speaking Italian and French speaking Frenchman ... all of whom speak English, of course ... final 11 tough going along the Via Romana, legs tired and energy lagging ... maybe 45k too much without adequate food ... still, it's done, Albergue pleasant, Fantastic Five arrive ... restaurant opens 7.30 ... so, a late night and ready for bed ... tomorrow maybe a 30 is enough ...

Las Herrerias to Caceres

Mind set on 40k day ... early breakfast of fresh orange juice, coffee and churros and out before 7.30 ... and since the start is off the Way after yesterday's relocation, it's hard shoulder in the dark for an hour ... making good time on the quiet N630, familiar companion since Seville and for some time yet ... its big brother takes the strain these days and it looks like the motorway is toll free since most of the traffic is there ... both roads, of course, follow the old Roman road north, as does the Camino ... though we are often far enough away to find peace ... the ubiquitous marble cubes have yellow for Santiago, green for Calzada Romana and both colours where the roads coincide ... engineers may have observed the markers are only cubes on the surface ... an equal amount is underground for stability .. other uses are as seats and stepping stones ... though sitters must beware the carved motifs, since they hold water after rain, as has been discovered ... and a source of employment in making and installing them, a key economic benefit from EU Camino investment, as also seen in the roadside signs ... the more helpful arrows, actually showing the direction to take at key points, are left to the volunteers of the local pilgrim association ...

Another route, marked with red posts, runs from Caceres to Badajoz, and distant mountains are in Portugal, not so far from our route ... FB kindly sends a reminder of the Eastern Portugal walk three years ago ... abandoned further south, due to long hard shoulder stages without services or pilgrims ... plenty of services here, though pilgrims again gone missing ... at early lunch stop in Valdesalor, Victor enquires how many are on the road ... next month maybe numbers will pick up ...

Caceres arrives soon enough, mind having accepted 40, early, persistent and swift morning left afternoon 12 k easy enough ... and the 40 was more like 38 according to Gronze. .. and that's without hard shoulder short cuts ...

The historic centre is not in the centre, but up on a hill, like many strategic towns and yellow arrows show the Way ... though the later rehearsal for exiting revealed no arrows at all ... not at the Church of Santiago, nor at the municipal Albergue ...which had no pilgrims though the adjacent campervan park had plenty from the Escargot Club ... anyway, by this time the Residencial Zurbaran had appeared (showing he is famous here as well as Fuente de Cantos and Bishop Auckland) ... and for €18 offered a single room, bed, sheets but no towels, nearby bathroom and WiFi for your daily delight ... a map from tourist info, some enquiries and a long walk, revealed the route out, though still arrowless. .. whether the escape is tomorrow or the day after will be decided in the morning ... the city has plenty of culture and history to explore and Alejandro at tourist info seemed very surprised at the lack of enthusiasm for the treasures on offer ...

Checking the body parts working hardest, feet are happy enough, legs too ... shoulders are wondering why we are carrying so much wet weather gear when it has barely rained ... overall the organism is operating well on 20 to 40 k per day and loving the Sun ... still, a rest day is in order and a nearby vegetarian restaurant, closed this evening, may offer some relief to stomach, which has coped stoically with excess white bread and occasional meat mistakes ...

Let's see what the morning brings ...

Aljucan to Alcuescar

Sunday lie in, porridge at the simple Albergue, no Hospitalera but back door open ... into the bar for coffee and on the road by 8.15 for traffic free wander through nature reserve ... sporadic gunfire suggesting Sunday sport but mostly peaceful in the Sun ... last night's light reading left half read, since what is not offered is not to be taken, as the Buddhist precept has it ... taken to ritualistic extreme at Theravadan Harnham, where the cook has to literally offer the food to the monks ... a small faux pas when this blogger and sometime cook was not briefed on the ritual, though all was forgiven ... anyway, light reading or not, the book is too heavy for the pack ...

The 20 km seems long towards the end and the first Albergue opportunity arrives swiftly, at the Slaves of the Poor monastery ... friendly Hospitalero explains check-in is 4.30, so time to find wifi, beer, tapa looking optimistically like mushrooms on bread, but turn out to be kidneys ...then explore other options, including the brand new cubist edifice on the hill, with amazing views through huge windows .... well worth a visit when it opens, which is not today ...the other option, without plodding on several kilometres, is the Casa Rural, with price to be determined on arrival ... Gronze.com and Booking.com differ ... let's see! 

First, lunch ... omelette, salad and chips turn out meat free, though proper ethical eaters will note eggs, not currently on the proscribed list ... the refuelling lifts the energy and interesting wander uncovers Casa Rural, but nobody home ... just phone numbers to ring, which is not much help if you don't have a phone ... of course the monastery is a safety net, and vaguely interesting as a cultural experience, but, being neither poor nor slave, nor Christian and as the doors are locked at 9pm and only opened at 8 am, making an early exit to enable nearly 40k day to Caceres tomorrow tricky, the option is rejected once a sign for the Olivos, 3km west and on the Way for the morning is spotted, it seems simple enough to hit the hard shoulder for half an hour ... and indeed the Olivos offers a simple single room with bed linen, towels, shower and sink, bar and restaurant and WiFi for €18 ... the monastery is donativo but €10 would be fair ... anyway money is not an issue, as long as comfort doesn't decline into decadence ...

Torremejia to Aljucan

Early orange and banana breakfast in room, coffee downstairs and out into misty dawn ... for three hours to Merida and Spanish breakfast of tostada with tomato, plus orange juice and coffee, then over the Roman Bridge, crossing the Guidiana, last seen at the border at Vila Real, picking up arrows, skipping town and passing open albergue with friendly hospitalero ... too early to stop and Roman history not tempting ... they came to Newcastle too ... built a wall across to Carlisle to keep the Scots out, without success, though the wall still serves as a tourist attraction and route for walkers ... current US plans for similar barrier along border with Mexico probably as useful, though source of much work for Mexican folks no doubt ...

Anyway, impressive aqueduct catches the eye on the way out and even more impressive dam at Proserpina, now serving as recreational facility with beaches around the lake ... by which time, around hour four, mist lifts and Sun breaks through ... along quiet road, sandy track, past grazing sheep to brand new Albergue and dining room at the otherwise service free village of El Carrascalejoa ... doubtless very welcome to tired and hungry pilgrims when it actually opens ... hey ho, on we go into hour six and graffiti promoting donativo Albergue at Aljucen (with the true sentiments of the Camino )... before which, another albergue closed until March... at the cafe by the church, food and a bed (at the donativo Albergue)... suggesting a local feud ... though the historical Way always had an economic aspect ... "no meat thanks" elicits mixed salad without the usual tuna, plus green beans with scrambled egg, laced with suspicious looking pink bits ... oh, just ham hmm, like the chick peas, it doesn't count as meat when it's so small ... egg and chips it is then!

At the Albergue, no other pilgrims appear ... basic facilities, not including wifi, so it's back to the bar to send today's entertainment ... for later, a little light reading is found by Sue Townsend  ... well, not found by her, obviously, but written by her ... as for the pilgrims, three left Merida this morning, presumably gone on to the next town ... as usual, this solitary soul self-sabotages social opportunities by wandering aimlessly and trusting the universe to provide ... and indeed the food and bed are gratefully received after a long stage ... as are warm words from readers ...

... then, just after posting, Jaya, from Korea via Los Angeles, arrives, having walked from Merida ... taking it slowly ...

Villafranca to Torremejia

Pre-dawn departure enables wonderful first hour with enough wispy clouds to enhance sunrise ... 5 more hours through flat wine country, along farm road with only occasional workers' cars and small tractors with harrows. .. today's task to combine raking up pruning into piles for burning and cleaning ground of weeds ... birdsong suggesting not too much chemicality ...

At hour three, a sit down and airing for feet, which grumbled a little when shoes went on first thing ... though soon settled down to the job ... after snack, Gennaro wanders by, talking to himself and pulling shopping trolley, containing an empty bucket and a small bottle of water ...a friendly interlude ensues, though little Spanish is understood ... maybe an invitation to the Caritas place in off route Almendralejo ... bed, food, laundry ... not tempted and offer of €1 for a coffee is met with equanimity ... he tosses the coin to decide whether to accept or not ... no photo ... it seemed disrespectful to ask ... 

On and on in full Sun, though probably under 20 degrees ... in summer this shade and refreshment free stage hits 40 plus ... arrive at 1pm and this one horse town offers two albergues ... the Red-Silver which is missed despite signs, and the municipal in beautifully converted church building, closed at 1.30 after coffee stop ... still closed at 4.30 after late lunch, with local red wine ... though hostal with €20 single room is open ... simple comfort ... 

Tomorrow a short stage to Merida, capital of Extremedura ... lots of culture to explore ... or maybe push on, since 16k is hardly a day's walk ... let's see! 

Zafra to Villafranca de los Barros

A first outing for sleeping bags (silk liner, lightweight outer) plus blankets mostly warm and comfortable and handy kitchen for porridge making ... out before light and through town swiftly, thanks to rehearsal ... climbing dirt road over the hill to Maimones in less than an hour for first coffee, though early bars closed ... Churreria cabin comes to rescue with average coffee, small churro (think thin doughnut) and brief rest on nearby bench ... then on ... and on ... and on for three hours through fields on farm track ... mental work and hard enough for last hour as Villafranca takes a while after crossing railway and main road and under motorway ... proposed double stage less attractive at 11.50 arrival in bar for orange juice and coffee plus first draft of today's offer ... too soon to stop for the day, but next stage of 27k rather daunting ... nothing in between without diverting off Way and then only hotels ...

Raimundo spoke of the trap of the photographer, seeing everything in a photo frame and blocking deeper reality ... creating narratives whilst walking is another trap, though extended days sometimes allow thinking to relax and let go of the story ... anyway this pilgrim takes writer role seriously, since readers feed attention, explicitly and implicitly ... the editor writes after Zurburan's shoddy treatment, prompting common memories of a collection in Auckland Castle ... though that memory was stored somewhere barely accessible before the prompt ... art appreciation clearly not strongly embedded in the patterns ... Christina laments lack of any originals in Zurburan's birthplace, though even one would only add to security requirements and the new owner of Auckland Castle unlikely to offer any free of charge ...

Having passed the Albergue at the edge of town, still open to going further, other options prove  elusive... closed, hidden, expensive ... aimless wandering has its moments and it is early enough, so back to bar for menu del dia. .. waiter and chef consult and come up with chick peas in an ostensibly meat free sauce hmm, calamares still in cold blooded creature category and acceptable for a "vague un" ... chocolate tart delicious ... small beer confirming this town as today's destination and afternoon very warm Sun validates decision ... Albergue Extrenatura soon located, with heating ... Hospitalera Theresa, warm and friendly, suggests nearby Ethnographic Museum for this evening ... more culture in Extremedura ... maybe patterns can change ...

The museum is wonderful ... beautifully converted, well presented and even some subtitling in English ... do call in if you are passing ...

As for photos, pilgrims gone missing again ... maybe Merida in two days where many start the Way and other routes join ... Malaga, Cordoba ... let's see ...

Fuente de Cantos to Zafra

Late enough at 8.30, after breakfast at Zazuan ... juice, cornflakes, toast ... no coffee since instant decaffeinated not desired ... nor bothered to call at bar ...early opportunity at 6k accepted along with bonus lingo learning as the two on the Way are closed and directions required for third ...

... which enables Anna and Theo to pass by, though soon left behind ... their pace slow, English only slightly better than my German and that is almost zero ...

...the stage is 25k for Zafra in three parts: an hour and a bit to Calzadilla, and coffee; 3 hours to Puebla Sancho Perez and tapas; under an hour to Zafra, Albergue Van Gogh, shower and change, then late lunch at 3.30 ... and, having noted improved consistency this morning, colour suggests iron required ... tortilla tapa, spinach (with egg) first course, vegetables (with egg) second course, red wine (of course ) should sort the colour, though all the egg may take consistency the other way ... tomorrow will tell ...

Mind and body mind holding it all together in the mostly pilgrim free stage ... feet creak between work, but soon settle ... right big toe recalls San Vicente trauma from time to time, but falls in line ... legs and brain urge challenges ... some doubling up of stages ... we know 50k can be done and these flat tarmac free lanes are perfect for it ... early starts, steady pace, decent rests and alcohol free lunch breaks optimal ... let's see!

For geographers, the route has passed through Sierra and grazing animals, arable fields, olive trees and now grape vines ... it's pruning time ... temperature up to 15 after yesterday's cool 10, and unlikely to drop now to allow snow ... much in evidence from Weardale posts and pics. .. even extended stages not fast enough to race Spring ...

At Albergue with many beds, just me and Antonio the volunteer hospitaleiro ... seven or so somewhere out there!

P.S. wander to rehearse tomorrow's exit (in case of double stage) leads to supermarket and one ripe avocado, one ripe banana, one ripe orange ... all for €1 ... the price of one coffee or one small beer ...

Monesterio to La Fuente de Cantos

Pilgrims appear again ... on the track to La Fuente, soon after leaving the main road, Salvador, from Catalonia, walking to Caceras, having started his pilgrimage in Monesterio ... having noted an attempt to communicate in Spanish, falls into English for four hours, all the way to La Fuente ... which makes the journey pass quickly ... working a quarter of full time, at 63 easing into retirement from his administrative job, he walks the ways in instalments .... two more pass by, talking to Salvador in Spanish, though he says they are not from Spain ...

At the edge of town a hostel owner attempts a kidnap, since there are many options here and his €15 offer was not one of them ... hearing Salvador fancies the Albergue at the old convent, stresses the heating at his place ... and today is cooler at 10 degrees, though Sun stays out all day to warm us ... identifying as a Catholic, though a little lapsed, some suffering is in order, though not for this pilgrim, who, after a look at the convent, heads for the special offer with heating ... and finds a rather wonderful apartment, with garden, terrace, swimming pool, kitchen, lounge ...astute readers may have observed the bar has been raised from previous austere hostel living, though these will doubtless feature again before too long ...

After a filling late lunch (the only meal besides breakfast required or desired), back at the apartment German pilgrim couple, Annelore and Theo, have arrived ... walking to Merida before flying back to the snow ... which, according to the tv at breakfast is heavy in the north of Spain as well as other places ... unlikely here though, and today's cool 10 is set to climb back to 15 before some rain at the weekend ... let's see ...

Strolling by the church in this very pretty town, Salvador appears and offers an invitation to join his cultural tour, led by Christina. .. first the life and work of well known (though not to this philistine) native born painter Zurburan; next wonderful sculptures by local artist, relocated to Brazil, Julian Gonzales Garcia; finally the church with its totally over the top baroque fresco ... the sincere question of who dusts these things goes unanswered ... a lemon from the tree in the Zurburan garden comes free, to make tea, with honey from the pack ... plus a sweet cake from the bakery near the Zaguan apartments, which are so congenial that an option of a rest day or two sits alongside the more likely 25k morning meander to Zafra ...

Almaden to Monesterio

Low cloud delays dawn ... yesterday's rehearsal eases dark exit past bull ring, scene of Sunday sport, dead bull laid out, locals taking steaks ... no photo ... rather strong imagery for this sensitive soul ... though wary of hypocrisy, since shoes once lived and breathed as the skin of a cow or bull ... Buddhist monks of Tibet typically eat flesh from Yaks, but despise the butchers. ..

Body mind reflects on all this ... socks, with shoes and feet a key team for walkers, once kept sheep warm ... meanwhile feetback reports all well, as long as laces continue to constrain movement ... blisters, mostly of heel, being the bane of many unwary pilgrims ... shoulders complained a little last night, after excess weight from food and fluid carried due to 30 k trip without services ... rucksack, shoulders and hips mostly a happy team for carrying essentials, though mind may manage what that means ...

Light cloud leads to light rain, which land sips gratefully ...layers 1 and 4 add layer 5 for showerproofing, leaving layer 6 for serious rain ... 

Early start means first stop is reached by 10.30 ... a rest and airing for feeteam. . a busy bar (breakfast time it seems) offers coffee ... earlier breakfast of porridge ensures fuel for further, stomach having indicated, via loose morning motion, mayonnaise laden tapas not optimal ... 20 k to bed stop should see late lunch opportunity ... in Extremedura, as Andalusia was left behind shortly after Almaden ...

As indeed it does, after delightful 10k on dirt road, through cork oak forest and grazing goats, sheep, cows and pigs ... at the end of the road, an abbatoir and a motorway, with 24 hour services not tempting at all ... last 10k mentally challenging, but brings Monesterio at 15 15, a brief look for tempting pilgrim special at first hotel, though Monday is chef's day off, so on into town and eventually a restaurant with lunch and WiFi for locating a bed ...which turns out to be the first one ...no sign of pilgrims on the road today and possibly chilly, solo Albergue not appealing ... shorter stage tomorrow ... with little option for variation ... 50+ has been done, but it is too much ...