Thursday 31 October 2019

Engaging ...

Early brisk walk through woods displaying yellows and browns in preparation for stripping back to the bark ... morning engagement with Peter, fellow philosopher and regular blog reader, one of a select band of four or five and always encouraging the effort ...

Afternoon wander to the village co-op reveals long lost friends heading soon for new life in Portugal, then Gillian, local Angel of the community ... on the street another community activist, Jean for a few words before a visit to Marjorie, elder friend having small crisis and a visit from paramedic prescribing antibiotics and statins  to ward off chest infection ... and under the care of Geraldine, another community volunteer, a retired nurse ... all of which affirms the sense of home, albeit 500 miles north of the childhood one ...

Temperature outside takes noticeably chilly turn, inside heating system keeps it cosy and house feeling very homely for now ... no thoughts of flying south just yet ...

Wednesday 30 October 2019

Home ...

After 3 days travelling from home at La Espiral to home in Stanhope, three weeks away a shorter trip than usual, the cottage on Railway Terrace feels welcoming and a fire in the multi-fuel burner soon warms the place up ...

Rather surreal in the B&B, alone in the breakfast room, set for 15 folks looking forward to cereal and juice, fry up of eggs, sausages, bacon, beans and tomatoes plus toast and marmalade, tea or coffee ... Maureen has left muesli and juice out as requested and coffee was taken in the room ... off to the station in good time for the 7.25 only to discover it cancelled due to high tides and strong winds threatening the track at Dawlish ... London bound Great Western is advised to Exeter, where the Cross Country services are commencing ... already an hour late and a different train, quite crowded, but a seat is found and the trip to Durham passes easily enough, arriving only a few minutes late ... plus the hour, which looks like a bargain trip under the scheme to pay passengers for delays ... brief conversations with fellow passengers, but mostly absorbed by Jon Ronson's book ... its many implications, including the thing most of us may already have worked out: that many business leaders and politicians are psychopaths ...

A run from the station to bus station rewarded by timely bus to Crook, then a chance to call into the newly opened Aldi for provisions before the last leg to Stanhope ... 3 weeks and a day away, General Election fever competing with Halloween tomorrow, Guy Fawkes night next week, poppy emotional blackmail well underway, Christmas shopping fever ... all of which will be held lightly if at all ...

Tuesday 29 October 2019

Plymouth

Biscay calm enough last night for sound sleep, increasingly rough in the morning, leading the Captain to bar access to outside decks for our own safety ... quite right too, it was very bracing out there, early walk round having preceded Captain's warning ...

Full engagement with other passengers avoided and Jon Ronson's "The Psychopath Test" entertains, informs and educates, along with the Observer to catch up on goings on in the last 3 weeks ... nothing much to report as EU hokey-cokey continues and Rugby Tournament is still not finished ...

Arrival in Plymouth only 30 minutes late due to storm and traditional B&B located near Hoe for evening stroll as Sun sets over harbour and full english breakfast before train north ... in another reality. .. in this one it's raining and breakfast is served too late for early train ... picnic supper in warm, dry and comfy room suffices after good lunch afloat ...

Camino season done for the year, two Primitivos plus Finisterre ... organism satisfied and ready for winter retreat in Stanhope ...

Monday 28 October 2019

By Bla Bla car to the boat ...

As is often explored and explained, conceptual knowledge is not real until embodied, experienced ... and so with this liftsharing platform from France, now in regular use by young people in Spain, Portugal, Italy and elsewhere ... patience and perseverance sets up the 9 am pick up by the bus stop, Nicola right on time and ahead of schedule with 14.35 arrival at Torrelavega, including pick-up of second passenger en-route ... Susanna, on her way to Bilbao ... Nicola heads for San Sebastian today, Milan tomorrow, with a French couple to collect in Pau and drop in Monaco ... meaning his fuel and toll costs are covered, plus he has some company on the long drive ... favourite FEVE train station right by drop off speeds into Santander by 15.15 and boarding pass secured before stretch for legs around town ... warm and sunny 20° unlike rainy Finisterre this morning ...

Before this very efficient trip, another rather snory night in the dorm means tonight's tiny solo cabin looks like a real haven and ensuite toilet eases any nocturnal incontinence ... a very warm embrace from Coline (ed. please note previous misspelling) and Bernard, and a short trip to the bus stop means legs are wondering what's going on, while feet are quietly grateful for a complete rest .... the philosophy has gone very deep with Coline, in the zone after 2 months on the Way without smartphone or other technology ... the increase of techgadgetry over the last 5 years is noticeable and intrusive ... perhaps a reflection of the dilution of the purpose of pilgrimage along with the ever increasing numbers. .. especially from Tui, Sarria and other Compostela earning short trips ... taxis advertise pick ups of tired pilgrims as well as onward baggage to lighten the load ... taxigrinos ... others more focused on the holiday aspect known as turigrinos ... all of which holier than thouness begs the question of what a pilgrim is ... maybe best to discern case by case, without judgement ... if indeed even discernment is required ... walking always in groups, navigating by smartphones, plugged in to music or whatsapp chatter diminishing pilgrimness ... Coline exemplifying the possibilities ... others too ... never mind, the Compostela may or may not get you into heaven, but it seems quite helpful on cvs when employers are seeking character reference beyond academic qualifications ...

Pont Aven provides simple needs, including great veggie early supper to make up for skipped lunch .. a book and yesterday's newspaper for a day afloat and another by train ... time on-board is UK time, another hour back meaning bed is calling, this time without snoring ...

Sunday 27 October 2019

Deeper in Fisterra. ..

A snory night with sufficient sleep ... other floors experiencing similar situations and morning, later since clocks went backwards when we weren't looking, reveals consequent mini dramas ... Colline having rewarded Nicola's late, noisy night with an early light ... in the private room resident Italian has music playing loud enough to disturb Bernard next door ... in middle dorm 3 Swiss women, having arrived late and spending inordinate amounts of time in bathroom and snoring most of the night, request extra day ... equanimity holds despite the prospect of another noisy night ....

At breakfast philosophy ensues with Colline who reveals Protestant loyalties, though unclear about what she is protesting ... Once True Faith perhaps ... nevertheless and Jesus notwithstanding, common ground is found beyond the words ...

Wandering in search of non-existent Sunday opening supermarket, Fatima appears to say Michele is cooking later ... leaving morning clear for solo meander to the faro and up to the sacred stones on a still, warm, sunny day ... perfect for reflecting on this morning's conversation ... musing on book gestating ready for winter writing perhaps ....

Return to La Espiral reveals Michele's plan for late lunch at 3 ... so, to La Galeria and vino with tapa and writing by window overlooking marina. ..

Community Sunday lunch goes convivially, Fatima assists sorting Blabla Car, ferry booked for tomorrow, Plymouth Tuesday evening ... enough reservations for one day ...

Saturday 26 October 2019

Lunch in Lires ...

Blablacar continues to occupy time, as possible driver with Fisterra address inspires search in the real world rather than the tricky virtual one ... though address seems not to exist ... anyway, as patience is exercised with another full day to book the ride and no boat or train depending on the first step, two more nights are booked at La Espiral and the Monday evening boat will return on Wednesday if alternative transport is required.

A stroll out with options  open uncovers Audrey setting off for Lires and an interesting conversation ensues ... her life as daughter of US secret agent in Japan and Indonesia, as police officer investigating child abuse, now early retired at 55 and enjoying the Way slowly ...

At Lires she heads for hostel ... menu del dia sets up 12 km return via coast and a steady day's walking in dry, sometimes sunny weather ...

Back at the hostel a new batch of pilgrims arrive, including Colline from France,  who left Le Puy two months ago ....

More home cooking from yesterday's shopping appreciated by incoming pilgrims and Bernard, French hospitalero ...

Clocks change tonight ... no pressing engagements to demand attention to that ... just Blablacar to sort, or bus alternatives for Wednesday's sailing ....

Friday 25 October 2019

to the faro ...

Late enough start and lazy breakfast, researching options for return ... no longer including  Brockwood, since long weekend after this one fully booked ... brand new option opens with Bla bla car, known conceptually but not so far experienced ...  choices from here all the way without troubling the buses ...

As Simone and Bernard prepare to clean the place it's off to see the Faro at the end of the earth again ... dry, gentle walk up from town, an encounter with Audrey from Colorado, previously seen trudging wetly in sandals yesterday morning and now talking of two day stroll to Muxia ... up and along to the Sacred Stones (pagan version of the Cathedral in Santiago) and back down to establish catering options for today, including an offer to cook this evening, though Artem, arriving from Russia via the Primitivo and last seen in Ferreira claims experience as a professional chef and the job is gladly handed over ...  an interesting and earnest briefing on modern Russia claims Moscow as one of the best cities in the world, whilst some issues are noted in regions ... anyway Artem now works in public relations for charities and the centrist party headed by V. Putin ... an interesting idea justified by the presence of communist and fascist parties in parliament ...

Thursday 24 October 2019

Fisterra

Later start in heavy rain, turning lighter occasionally ... cape and overtrousers coping, shoes not so much, but 15km plodge passes fast enough non-stop and into La Espiral for warm greeting from Simone .. bed booked before five Italian pilgrims arrive from the bus, meaning a full Albergue. .. good going at this time of year, reputation clearly spreading especially amongst Italians, with Simone and Michele around ... pizza party last night. ...

Rain desists a little and options considered ... boats, trains, planes, even some more walking, though feet parts were mumbling last night  ... heels mostly, feeling the effects of 140km over the last 3 days. .. though yesterday's effort vindicated seeing today's weather ... prompting thoughts of Algarve where rainfall is much less than Galicia, though experience shows it is not unknown ...

Anyway, return to DUK more likely, cosy home in the hills, with books in the alcoves, new carpet awaiting door shave or keep opening it and shave the pile down ... bathroom renovation considered, though since it works fine maybe better to wait for yellow suite to come back in fashion. ..

Rain stops, though overcast ... Portsmouth bound boats fully booked, Plymouth possible, planes trickier if life long resistance to Ryan Air cheap flight cheap service model is maintained ...

And since synchronicities are worth a look, a wander from Plymouth up to Brockwood, a few days there, including Friends of Brockwood event, may just mean a return to Stanhope on the 5th anniversary of the bid for freedom ... perhaps a title for the long awaited book ...

Wednesday 23 October 2019

Cee

Another epic 53km as forecast - fair today, rain tomorrow, encourages pushing to enjoy the stage to Cee and the sea in afternoon sunshine ... only 15km to Fisterra and the energy for it, just not enough light for the last three hours ...

So, porridge in the Albergue, quick coffee nearby, and it's on the Way pre-dawn and fast ... a little too fast,  since torchlight exit from dorm neglects to collect towel and socks drying on the rail of top bunk ... on the plus side, that's less weight to carry and towels can be borrowed or replacement bought ...

First stop for juice and coffee and to remove layers is 7km out ... a brief rest and on to Santa Marina for coffee and cake, ten minutes rest and up the hill and over towards Olveiroa and lunch at 2.25 after slight slowing of pace to engage with Scott from Wisconsin, who had 6 wet days on the Ingles and now happy to see Sun. ..

Wonderful lunch of lentil soup, salad and flan, and wisely water rather than wine ... back on the road at 3, with 5 hours of light available for the 20km to Cee ... steady plod without stops means town is reached before sunset ... 7pm and a quick beer before the Albergue appears, well advertised along the Way "We are pilgrims too" ... Guzman and Maria providing warm welcome and facilities demonstrating attention to detail ... including the loan of a towel ...

A trip to supermarket and baker produces fruit, pie and cake for supper ... legs and feet looking forward to later start and slower pace for tomorrow's very easy day ... hopefully with a bed for a couple of days at La Espiral ... after that maybe Muxia and start thinking about a boat ...

Tuesday 22 October 2019

Negreira via Santiago ...

Later leaving the cosy room and a quick cortado is enough to spark up the engine, fuel tank full enough after last night's meal ... passing pilgrim procession the 19 km to Santiago, grabbing a couple of bananas from trackside stall, onwards with brief buenas dias and buen caminos, another cortado this time with croissant, on again to Monte Gozo and Daniel, who indeed achieved his PB of 45km with heavy pack yesterday, having reached Santa Irena ... wandering into town, photos and lunch at the monastery and conversation about life in the modern Czech Republic, his next trip to New Zealand, ambition to be a pilot ....a bottle of wine leads to plan to stay, enquiry at reception establishes all pilgrim rooms reserved already and though options abound the legs set off for Negreira, the 20km first stage to Finisterre ...slow going as wine works through system but one foot in front of the other brings the destination with light to spare by 7.30 ... first open door is Albergue Lua with plenty of beds to choose from and plenty of blankets to make up for lack of heating ...

New pilgrim pal is Alex, a doctor from Slovenia, out for drink and cheese and bread pincho, with added philosophy ...

Tomorrow 35 for Casa Loncho ... maybe ...

Monday 21 October 2019

Pedrouzo

Legs woke early and eager for long stage, feet, finally friends with their shoes comply, and Arzua at 34 km firmly on the programme ... Ton serves breakfast, whilst Ria recovers from 1 am pilgrim party ... completely unnoticed in the full, rather snory dormitory, where a deep sleep prevails through to 7 am ... muesli fuels the system and torch deployed for starlight start ... fast for 6km until Daniel shows up landing his drone ... having left the nearby Albergue he talks of a long stage and a PB, though no sign of him since so who knows whether his personal best was achieved, or even what it would look like ... meanwhile, legs race on until short stop and a cortado at 15km, on to find baker in van offering croissant, gladly bought to munch on the way ... Melide, at 20km comes before noon and tortilla sought ... not at this time says the cafe man ... somewhere else in town? Unlikely he says, and next enquiry confirms his view ... strange for a large town with many bars, but legs still eager and stomach indicates sufficient fuel from yesterday and this morning ... and reminds central command that the Lugo banana, biscuits and chocolate may be more effective generating energy in the tummy than sitting in the pack ... a quick coffee and on towards Arzua, with Camino Frances pilgrims milling about, mostly heading up the hill to the cemetery, a climb declined when the main road takes a level route ... 4th time on this stretch and short cuts mostly known ... pace maintained for a couple of hours and one short break before conversation with Joan into Arzua. .. Aussie grandma and signed up Christian, she's here with a large group ... lunch stop in Arzua produces the tortilla missing in Melida and water instead of wine, since it's still before 3pm and legs are ready for more ... 5 hours of daylight mean Pedrouzo possible at nearly 20km leaving an easy Santiago tomorrow ... afternoon encounter with Kiwi Finn brings deep philosophy for an hour before he finds his hostel ... 3rd hour legs fade a little, take a break and small beer 4km out then speed up to hit town before 7.30 ... first door is 2 star pension and brief haggle reduces price for double room ( for one person) from startling €45 to slightly less startling 40 ... no interest in trailing around town for Albergue or cheaper pension, so it's simple comfort in over large bed, with ensuite shower and toilet, view of the woods rather than noisier main road ... well deserved after epic 54 km effort ... hot shower, menu del dia, chat with Belgian pilgrim who admires the 54, and has his 11 weeks from Normandy admired in return. ..

Sunny day forecast for tomorrow .. whether for Santiago or straight through to Negreira is a question for the morning ... for now the hard working feet and legs have some tissue repair work to do while the system goes into standby mode ...

Sunday 20 October 2019

Ferreira

Remarkably easy after yesterday's testing conditions. .. more tarmac than preferred, but quiet roads and some woodland tracks too ... first pilgrim caught after an hour ... Leandro, a priest from Colombia, preaching the Once True Faith in Puerto Rico. .. translation tricky, but it seems his Camino has deepened his faith. .. Sun appears along with the Bar at Santa Eulalia, 10 km from Lugo and a brief rest and tortilla plus pair of Korean pilgrims ... at second rest stop, San Roman, another Korean turns up, unaware of his compatriots ahead ... he has walked from Alicante to Burgos, then train to Oviedo for Primitivo ... and coping with yesterday's weather by taking bus from Fonsegrada to Lugo ... finally, an hour from home the Koreans meet up for a while, though it is not assumed that speaking the same language will necessarily make them bosom buddies ... indeed further reflection discovers that identifying as a pilgrim is perhaps a better common ground than age, gender, job or nationality ...

Lunch stop at Ferreira bar, where locals appear to be having a shouting match and the children are winning ... no trace of animosity, just very loud ... anyway, ensalada mixta and small beer enjoyed before finding bed at Albergue, looking busy since other two in town closed ... Melide doable at 20, but reunion with Ria and Ton and hearing about Camino life from their perspective more interesting ... plenty of time for Santiago, whether in two or three stages ...

The place fills up as tortoises arrive, hares having eaten and showered, if not been overtaken on the road ... familiar faces from the stages since Grandas appear, some bonded from Oviedo .... others focus on public albergues, though there is not one here ... not frequented anyway by a pilgrim travelling without a proper sleeping bag ... blankets essential to complement the silk liner ... or the sheets and duvet to be found in some albergues ...

Vegetarian community dinner served for 15, others head to bar, maybe meat eaters, but this meal shows just how delicious food can be without flesh from corpses ... all very convivial and an amazing job by Ria and Ton ... season soon over, their winter break well earned ...

Tomorrow Arzua the target ... nearly 40km and flat enough ... let's see!

Saturday 19 October 2019

Lugo

9 am bus to Lugo tempts injured pilgrims and maybe some put off by the weather forecast. .. anyway only one other encountered all day - Rene from Nantes ... an hour chatting, mostly in French, before 8 km coffee stop in Castroverde ... after that solo all the way and fast ... just one more brief rest stop at 15km and on into the rain, changing from light to heavy and never actually stopping ... wet gear mostly copes and opportunity is taken to enjoy the journey in the mind ... at Lugo a Vegan menu del dia appears and taken before finding bed ... conversation in bar leads to simple room in Residencial San Roque ... a solo treat for €24 ... pilgrim engagement can wait until tomorrow ... forecast drier and Ferreira Albergue with Ton and Ria planned ...shorter day and last before Frances merges at Melide and Norte at Arzua ... maybe 2 long stages to Santiago, then Fisterra to see the family at La Espiral ...

Friday 18 October 2019

Cadavo and Carmen

Out after 8 in dismal pre-dawn ... porridge from the pack, coffee, juice and pastry in the bar, and on the road early enough for comfortable 25km by 2.45, steep climbs notwithstanding ... solitude for a while, as Way avoids hard shoulders where possible ... more forest tracks with their special energy... an hour or so with Kaspar from Denmark, suffering from flu or something ... finding his life balance between walking the Ways and earning the cash in casual work to walk some more ... at halfway coffee and tortilla stop Silka shows up for brief reunion before return to solo stretch before English couple, Claire and Wraith, turn up ... walking their dog, living locally, trying to survive simply on harsh land in a harsh climate with friendly locals (once they realised the pair were sticking around) ... some talk of parallel worlds and Wraith revealing his name change (from Simon) to strengthen his shift from a hellish childhood, indicated by mural tattooed on his back ... a work in progress - the shift, not the tattoo. .. Silka shows up and bonds with Claire, possibly playing angel to Simon - Wraith's tortured soul ... all speculation of course, but a very special connection, slowing the pace before the seeming vertical climb to La Lastra and a swift shandy break, then non-stop to Cadavo, San Matteo Albergue from Spring and Carmen signing us in as well as serving menu del dia next door ...

Tomorrow Lugo, the big city, nearly 30km but less climbing ...

Thursday 17 October 2019

Fonsagrada

A short enough day's walk, though tough in early rain ... climbing to El Acebo with a view of Fonsagrada, still three hours away and first proper rest stop an hour before the end ... and since breakfast was skipped and only a couple of bananas for energy, last night's menu del dia proved its worth ... still, pace maintained and into town before 3 for lower bunk with sheets, towel and laundry, not to mention heated boot racks, in Cantabria Albergue ... settling in before main Grandas contingent arrive ... Ramon up for philosophy for a while, in early existential crisis after completing degree in business and law and wondering what his life is for ....join the club. ..

Brief chat with fellow Anglo, Silka, who, it transpires, is writing a blog called The Silka Roads, which readers may wish to investigate ... more on this if she appears again ...

Rosa, 22 year old peregrina from Germany explains a little about her degree in language, letters and their development ... fascinating ...

Wednesday 16 October 2019

Grandas ...

Early rain encourages full waterproofing, though morning turns out mostly dry, if windy ... wonderful walk across sierra and low route still quite high ... mostly off road again and solitude appreciated as various pilgrims overtaken right into Berducedo for first coffee since breakfast at 12.30 and two Spanish pilgrims popping up at each stage this time without packs ... taxis taking the strain ... spiritual pride absent but some residual pride in physical performance noted ... all work in progress ... onto La Mesa for lunch at 1.30 and an hour to convince the legs that the 15km afternoon upping, downing and upping again to Grandas de Selime is another day ... energy levels fine and last hour assisted by human engagement ... Daniel, from Czech Republic shares some energy up to the town with a dark secret ... learned from a woman born here, moved away to Gijon for work, then to London ... encountered at the K Centre in spring ... Grandas was the summer home of General Franco ... known as the usurper of the democratically elected government or saviour of Spain from the anti-christ, supported by the Vatican, Hitler and Mussolini, depending on your point of view ... anyway, a €20 room in a Pension is soon found, restaurant attached offers second menu del dia, only fair to the organism since we covered 40km over the mountains, normally two stages, in one long day ... body in shape for some long legs on the way to Santiago, though tomorrow looks shorter ... tricky to break stages up and 50 probably too much as we climb out of Asturias into Galicia ...

Tuesday 15 October 2019

Looking at money ...

Yesterday's walk goes unrecorded, since pilgrim engagement at the Albergue de Bodanaya is full on and also full since its reputation on pilgrim networks means further advertising is not required ... a special experience and one of the factors in returning to the Primitivo ... off-road tracks through forests another reason after the excess tarmac on the Norte. .. popularity of Bodanaya promotes breaking of reservation rule with morning email to David to secure a bed ... early exit from Grado produces Francisco, architect from Valencia, currently living in Belgium, fluent in English, for morning conversation all the way to Salas, where menu del dia without meat is negotiated and huge quantities loaded on the table, now including three more pilgrims ... resisted along with excess alcohol, since another two hours climbing is required after lunch ...and accomplished as light rain falls ... a warm welcome at the Albergue, where hospitality is offered in abundance and money not mentioned at all ... evening meal, wine, laundry, bed, breakfast all without a price attached ... a donations box is there on the wall near the exit, but our attention is not drawn to it and everyone is left to work out their contribution, if anything ... maybe some pay nothing, perhaps sitting somewhere in the conscience ever after ... maybe some are so touched they empty their wallets ... who knows? Anyway, David and Celia have been at it for five years and seem very happy ...

Aussie pilgrims Kylie and Peter offer most attention, their work with young people trekking the Outback inspirational ... in the same subset as Outward Bound in DUK and the French association introducing troubled youngsters to the pilgrim life ... morning connections include Carlos, young pilgrim having walked the Frances and very keen on the pilgrim life ... and Hiroki, volunteer hospitalera keen on Findhorn ...

After all the conviviality today's walk returns to blessed solitude, the pace fast enough to cover the ground, slow enough to appreciate Nature ... Campiello, putative destination, comes early and after early, alcohol-free, lunch of Vegan Stew, it is decided to push on 12kms to Pola on the low road option ... high road has no intermediate options and time is tight to get over in daylight and tomorrow looks wet, meaning restricted views ... anyway, that was done in April and the Pola alternative is also beautiful, reaching town before 6pm. .. options open and hotel arrives before Albergue ... luxury of 2 star en-suite with treat for feet, legs and shoulders of a bath with a working  plug ... a wait for supper snack since the kitchen opens at 8pm. .. time to catch up here and see a little tv ... Spain playing Montengro at football ... then two Spanish pilgrims from Grado arrive, also moving fast and far ... hotel cheap enough at €25, similar offer on the coast a few days ago was €10 more ... yesterday's priceless experience not to be shared or compared on here ... and supper tonight still an unknown price ... though not Donativo for sure!

Tomorrow maybe 40km to Grandas, let's see ...

Sunday 13 October 2019

Primitivo again ...

First train to Oviedo wanders along coast and through mountains for three hours ... peregrina at hostel plans bus later, needing treatment for eye infection .. semi- direct bus just an hour or so, though train fine and on time allowing steady stage to Grado ... other pilgrims starting here appear ... three Portuguese blokes, three young Germans, a Dutch woman, Joyce, who has walked from Leon to Oviedo on the San Salvador route ... another one to try ... the Ingles from Ferrol also lingering and looking like 4 days  ... ah well, one step, one day, one Camino at a time ...

An hour out from Grado, a late lunch opportunity appears, then the familiar Albergue Quintana, with more pilgrims this time ... a light rain sets in and some more forecast ... still warm at 15° though ...

Saturday 12 October 2019

To Llanes ...

Same stage as Spring, though route variations and tempo make for long day on the road and heart moving towards the mountains ... not to Potes in the Picos de Europa, that option came and went in conversation with Ed and Steve, brothers from BSA, both retired and regular pilgrims on the Ways to Santiago ... collected at first stop in Serdio and engaging to Colombres, where a motor cycle rally has filled the town with blokes (mostly) in leather gear and noisy bikes ... all fine fellows, though so many in one place makes a coffee stop less desirable, while the brothers give it a try ... just for context, some of my best friends are bikers, including the editor ... anyway, Spanish pilgrim couple Alfredo and Manuela are next up, stretching linguistic skills for a while ... 54 and already retired from arduous life of a miner ... first coffee stop out of town also full of bikers ... they stop ... finally at Buelna a quiet bar and albergue it's time for an early lunch and rest, though the organism is firing on all cylinders, helped by breakfast of soaked oats and banana in hotel room before dawn ... vegetarian lunch meets calorific requirements, the stomach files official complaint with Central Operating System due to stodgy nature and over large quantity of pasta ... only overcome after an hour or so on the road ... before that Ed and Steve arrive for brief resumption of engagement, along with Aussie Jodie ....

For once common sense prevails and wine is declined in favour of water, enabling four hour afternoon walk near the sea into Llanes ... though smell of the sea more prominent than views ... Spring Albergue skipped for more congenial one at the station ... leading to morning temptation for first train to Oviedo, a 3 hour trip, compared to 3 days walking ... coast feeling rather touristic and pilgrim tourists perhaps perceived as poor tourists ...

Jodie turns up at the hostel for good connection along with Max from Marseille, walking with his tearaway son .... a walk in progress ... as for Ed and Steve, no sign so far, it's already nearly 10pm, laundry washed and drying ... breakfast at very civilised 6.30, decision to walk or train can wait until 7.40 ... meaning Grado on the beautiful Primitivo tomorrow evening ...

Friday 11 October 2019

Engaging pilgrims ...

After a quiet evening and restful night, without roommate on upper bunk, breakfast brings engagement with another human in the form of Nadia, a Danish pilgrim on third Camino, this one having started in Le Puy two months ago ... abandoning her, the first hour warms the legs and sets the pace all the way to Cobreces and thoughts of coffee before Maarten intervenes, having started here just before ten ... from Holland, having started near Irun and seeking meaning on Picos route up to Santo Toribio ... a coastal alternative leads to church with posh restaurant preparing for festive lunch and kindly offering coffees in the midst of the work ... Nadia turns up for brief reunion as we set off, though photo ops detain again and she passes and joins the conversation into Comillas and parting of the ways ... San Vicente looking tricky for late lunch and ambitious Unquera unlikely as ambitious early possibility ... restaurant outside town offers Menu del Dia to feed the organism for afternoon stage in warm sunshine ... completed before five in San Vicente and Hotel Luzon as last time ... Serdio a little far after morning delays engaging with other humans ... tomorrow Santa Toribio option occurs, though unlikely ... maybe Llanes again, maybe not ... looking a little like Groundhog Day ...

Thursday 10 October 2019

Santander to Santillana sin Mar ...

After a day training, a night and day sailing, organism is happy to resume walking ... Bay of Biscay rather choppy and discombobulating ... some human contact made early in the voyage and at the end, when first pilgrim appeared, Welsh woman heading back to St Jean to start the classic French Way ... this pilgrim heading on familiar route from Santander, the N611 to Torrelevega and back road into Santillana without Mar, though plenty of tourists ... still open day by day, with previous mountain excursions still available along with Ribadeo and full Norte or Ribadeo to Ferrol ...

Sun lingers as early hour and half managed on pavements with street lights before first breakfast stop to tune in to new language and discover local tv news includes Spanish shoe exports threatened by possible DUK exit from EU ...

Seven and a half hours on the road, maybe six and a half walking, makes a strong first day, with no adverse reactions to report ... Convento offers lower bunk bed with sheet in double room and washing line for refreshing first set of underclothes ... filling menu del dia in town and warm Sun all day topping up Vitamin D ... fellow pilgrims mostly Italian and German so far ...

Feeling good to be back on the road ... 

Tuesday 8 October 2019

Here we go again!

Lack of trust in certainty of waking early enough to ensure bus to Durham in time for 8.55 train to Plymouth repaid by early hours faulty resetting of time on tablet ... alarm function rarely used and finding the time at 5.45 leaving it tight it took a while to work out that far from being late it was actually a hour or so early ... still, the extra time enabled a tardy assessment of the fully laden new rucksack and finding it unsatisfactory a return to trust Deuter ... a walk into the village, the direct bus wending its way though old pit villages from the long defunct West Durham coalfield, picking up students heading for New College, mostly defying the stereotypes and conversing rather than focusing fully on smartphones ... bus arrives late but in time for train heading to Plymouth ... and a delightful reunion with Penny all the way to Leeds ... followed by the Sheffield stage chatting to Mark about matters philosophical. .. his upcoming 10 day Vippassana retreat and more... third chat is with nonagenarian Donald, 30 years retired railway clerk and getting full value from pension and free travel pass ... some info on his warm winters in Malaysia before he alights at Derby and time for a picnic and nap ... on through Birmingham with fewer passengers to pester ...

Idea of awkward onward trip from Santander prompts new plan to walk west and see how that goes ... and there is plenty of time before Stanhope dental appointment on November 5th ... perhaps a return 2 days before, marking the 5th anniversary of the bid for freedom ...

Boat delayed by previous medical evacuations, though they seem to plan to pick up time .... hopefully not too late in Santander, since nothing is booked there ... anyway the city is well known now and plenty of choice near the centre and the ferry parks handily for hostels and hotels ... and that's a question for tomorrow, for tonight there's a bed in a tiny cabin with built in toilet and shower and it's calling after the  very early start and long journey across England ...

Sunday 6 October 2019

Slavery and circuses ...

Autumnal abundance continues with wood blewits and honey fungus to eat, elderberries to process into winter warmer with ginger, cinnamon and the dentist's demon, sugar ...

Necessary arrangements made for train to Plymouth and boat to Santander on Tuesday, with Ingles from Ferrol current choice, though that decision can wait until Thursday morning ... tardy research shows five stages, which can easily become four and another three across to Fisterra is still short enough ... never mind, the new rucksack wants a test along with seal socks ... yet to be worn and of interest since trusty scarpas have never kept the feet dry in very wet conditions ... speaking of which, today's weather forecast is wet and an early and long walk turns out not as bad as imagined, forecasts tending towards hyperbole, and cape plus overtrousers cope well ... wellies are chosen over scarpas and keep the feet very dry, though impractical for longer walks of course ...

Reader feedback questions regular reference to work and careers as contemporary slavery ... prompting re-examination of this stark characterisation of the nature of a significant portion of the lives of many of the humans in late stage capitalist countries .... well, writers may sometimes exaggerate for effect, like some weather forecasters, and there is some truth in the idea that working for a wage in order to survive, when needs and wants are conflated by hypnotic marketing techniques in a mad attempt to maintain the fiction that a finite planet can sustain infinite growth, a fiction crucial to the very survival of capitalism in its current form, is indeed sophisticated slavery, preferable in some ways, though it is worth noting that the employer managed to convert his or her labourer from a capital asset worth feeding and sheltering (depending on the price at the slave market) to a hired hand who needs to find his or her sustenance ... within this paradigm many are lucky to find their living aligned with their purpose or at least satisfying and maybe well enough paid to live comfortably even in retirement ... many others not so much ... at another level, for good or bad and probably both, our work provides a very strong element for the construction of a separate self ... which has serious consequences when that is the key part of the edifice and retirement arrives with consequent catastrophic loss of purpose ... possibly one reason for politicians and business leaders with over-developed egos carrying on in their roles ...

Meanwhile, back at the circus, the script unfolds with the bad clown heading towards the door, whether the exit from an overweening EU or just the exit from 10 Downing Street remains to be seen. Probably not an accident that Halloween has been chosen as the fateful day. The escape from the story to Santander and the resumption of pilgrim persona may also not be accidental. 

Bread and circuses have long been recognised as the twin diet for slaves and while food banks thrive in the fifth richest country in the world by GDP, the circus stays on the road to distract us from more fundamental questions ... which require a serious step up in consciousness to even be asked.

For those completely fed up with the EU drama, a regular soap opera, The Royal Family, steps in with opportunities to have strong opinions, though how that particular institution continues in the 21st Century is a mystery ... some say you really couldn't make it up but clearly that's what's going on ... the question is, who, how and why ... 


Friday 4 October 2019

Shifting ...

Some shifting in awareness is observed and the Game has certainly sharpened listening skills ... leading to a disturbing discovery on BBC R4's Today Programme, itself best rationed, though the sound device purchased to enable uplifting music ( Leonard Cohen, Bach and so on) inadvertently allows in the hypnotic influence previously eradicated ... television and radio mainly, though similar dangers lurk in social media of course ... anyway, and not to go too deeply into the whole horror story of child sexual abuse and its occult side, it appears that a big story which broke a while ago disclosed a ring of abusers in the Westminster Establishment and the Metropolitan Police, many years previously exposed as thoroughly corrupted by Freemasonry and maybe cleansed of its worst aspects, launched investigations into high profile politicians ... the main witness, Carl Beech, was subsequently charged, tried and convicted for giving false evidence ... maybe correctly, maybe not (a conspiracy interpretation would assert the powerful forces have demonstrated their impunity yet again, as a warning to victims to stay silent) ... anyway, paying close attention to the interview with a QC (trained in logical thinking), he said that one of the errors of the Met was in failing to examine Carl Beech's computer, which subsequently revealed he was also a child abuser, and this fact would have undermined his evidence ... a faulty leap in logic unchallenged by the interviewer, though they are usually very quick to trip interviewees and score points in the rapid to and fro ... to be clear to readers missing the point, far from proving an adult abuser could not have been abused as a child, the converse is true ... not that it is inevitable, but that the traumatised victim very often sees the world starkly divided between victim and perpetrator and the only choice as remaining as victim or becoming the abuser ...

All of this not to give unhelpful attention to the very dark side of Power, since energy flows where attention goes, and paradoxically forensic attention to the reality of occult practices and twisted sexual urges is necessary to expose it and deal with it ... the point in this post is more to expose the very subtle power of language to create fictions ... freedomndemocracy being another example worth a look, three words rolled into one to press buttons in brainwashed patriots ...

Meanwhile misty, mizzy Autumn day encourages feckless foreign foray, whilst dear friènd, recently released from the slave world finds time for a visitor and a walk around the outskirts of Durham to see a Camino marker for the Ingles, a hint from beyond perhaps, though there are no plans to walk from here  ... always a warm connectìon and maintaining Game intention of engaging fully with other humans ... a shared look at the box game bought at the Phoenix shop on Wednesday ... the editor may note the blog reframed by the Game, though probably pleased that service has resumed after a slack August and September ... as for editing he has dodged the work involved whilst encouraging the book waiting to be born ... and expressed the idea of writing his own blog or book based on his post-slavery life in rural France ...

So, the Camino Ingles from Ferrol seems ripe ... train Tuesday morning, boat Tuesday evening, Santander Wednesday evening, Feve train along coast Thursday or bus probably quicker ... could be on the Way Friday first light ... let's see!

Thursday 3 October 2019

Going deeper with Findhorn Family ...

Playing The Game of Transformation over the past few days in the beautiful Cluny space has been rather wonderful ... the Game itself, with four players and two guides, opened each of us up to rich sharing, leading to new understanding and indeed the possibilities of psychological clearing and spiritual deepening ... the four who arrived as strangers quickly became a tight group, with diverse back stories, national, cultural, racial and religious identities ... explored inside the Game and outside too ...

Since clear intentions were required from the start, a form of words arrived after some resistance to the concept of having intentions at all ... "to fully engage with other humans" seemed concise enough and referred to the path in general ... an intention specific to the Game became " to listen actively, with compassion and insight, and offer my views appropriately" ... this after cribbing from the others and it seemed right ... with angelic assistance ( Light was given during the ostensibly random process and Clarity joined her during the Game ) ...progress is made through levels of the physical, emotional, mental, Love and Unity, according to the accumulation of Form and Awareness via dice rolling, coin flipping, random picking of Insight and Setback cards, blessings, miracles and more ... all chronicled by the guides ... a task increasingly complex as miracles within miracles within synergies evolved ... and at every turn sharing of experience, some very raw .... though all that stuff stays in the group, of course! As for the intentions and angels of the others, that's for them to share here if they want... 

Having set the intention of engaging fully with other humans, and mostly doing that, it is amusing to note that Daisy, the little blue Chinese car joined the fun and games and served the group willingly, with trips to the Park, the airport and even Glasgow ... and came fully into her name in relationship with the others though Dai-sy may turn out to be a more sensitive rendering what with her being Chinese ...

October arrived during the Game and a possible Walk before winter was already in the Field ... research shows a berth from Plymouth to Santander next week and a wander from Ferrol on the Ingles or another trip over the mountains from Oviedo are out there ... other humans have offers outstanding which may influence events ... indeed it has been observed that fully engaging with such entities does tend to complicate things .... there we are, the price of fellowship!

As for transformation, time will tell and each may report back ... for this player the first visit to Cluny, for Experience Week 9 years ago, turned out to be very transformational and this return, with three daily 6.30 one hour early sits in the magical Sanctuary, where so many have sat in silence over the past forty plus years, has surely been a significant step along the path ... or to expand the metaphors, a deeper exploration of previously hidden spaces ...