Porto to Vila do Conde . . .

After a drizzly day wandering around Porto, it's an early start on day 1 of the Caminho Portugues, which has three variants from Porto, not to mention the Eastern route abandoned in Serpa and briefly re-visited in Covilha and Guarda . . . the coastal one appeals and the advice is to clear Porto and suburbs by taking the Metro to Maia.

Leaving the Pousada da Juventude at 6.30, an hour's walk into the centre and the Metro at Trindade . . . in Maia, breakfast and a friendly policeman gives detailed directions to the Caminho Santiago, which I pretend to comprehend and head off in the general direction he indicated . . . through the industrial zone and eventually onto the road to Vila do Conde, which runs straight, with towns and villages every few kilometres . . .and recognition for the pilgrimage from a baker in Vilar and a biker soon after . . . though no yellow arrows after the Cathedral in Porto until the bridge at Vila do Conde . . . where the beautiful Bellamar Hostel offers pilgrim rates of €10 for b&b, the restaurant next door, an Executive Menu of starter, main course, wine and coffee for €7.90 (and don't notice I am not an executive, despite the scruffy pilgrim persona) . . . the reward for skipping breakfast and hitting the road before sunrise . . .

This route promises gentle stages of 20 or 25 km and plenty of albergues . . . as for pilgrims, no others here yet, though since Santiago can be walked in time for Easter, there will be quite a few by Tui and Spain,no doubt . . . though this pilgrim may well slow down to avoid the Christian festivities, or divert to Finisterre on the ancient route . . .