Monday, 20 July 2015


Tario keeps popping into my consciousness.

Maybe because the post never published at the time. Maybe because of all the pilgrims I met, he declined to identify as one. I never discovered whether he had ever walked to Santiago or Rome.

It was walking along the riverside path outside Ribadasella … he called out “Hola, peregrino” from the picnic spot where he was cooking his lunch. Invited me to join him for chicken stew. I declined having just eaten in town (didn't get into the vegetarian question … or where he had found the chicken).

He had no English, so verbal communication was limited by my very basic Spanish. However, we were connecting on a more fundamental level .. . where the language barriers are transcended somehow.

Tario had two little dogs and his stuff in a small trailer, which he pulled by hand. Seemed to sleep out mostly, though was aware of the local albergue where I was headed and looked clean, so perhaps called in for showers and laundry from time to time.

When asked if he was a peregrino or pilgrim, he laughed and said “ no, just a wanderer”. He has been walking about, sleeping out, living free for the last eight years … the eyes showed a contented soul.

Since the next adventure wants to be the Camino del Norte from Irun to Santiago and on to Finisterre, perhaps we will meet again.

I hope so.


  1. Hi Steve, it's Dana here! We met in Aljezur, I was working at the Amazigh Hostel. I was wondering where were you now. So you're back home, like me. I came back home the 26th of February. But I starting tu feel the need to travel again, so i'm going to Budapest at the end of October, just for few days, and planning to go to Portugal again next here, but it's to soon to talk about that.

    All the best,

    1. Hi Dana . . . of course I remember you from Amazigh . . . maybe the best hostel experience of the whole trip. Yes, also thinking about travelling next year . . . maybe see you again. Sorry for the delay - only just found your comment. Happy Christmas! x