Evora

A stroll around Beja, bus to Evora, a stroll around Evora . . . resting from the relentless road bashing . . . Old Evora Hostel, cheap and cheerful, for a couple of days, then another bus north . . .

All the castles have brought into focus the Islamic history hereabouts . . . and the cult of St James or Sant Iago, the Knights Templar, their gnostic views clashing with the established Church, their role in promoting and protecting the Caminos to Santiago de Compostela, the supplanting of their pagan predecessors, the military clashes between Muslims and Christians . . . and the recent growth in popularity of the routes in contrast with the demise of organised religion . . .

Plenty of churches in Evora and a strong link with Santiago, despite not being on the recognised routes. Some relaxed research tomorrow, in this very beautiful world heritage city . . .