Cadavo to Lugo

Awaken to rain, forecast to stay all day, though after porridge, banana and kiwi in the San Mateo kitchen and a coffee in the Bar Eligio next door, it has abated and comes and goes all the way to Lugo and since waterproof kit is happy enough in such conditions all is well ... a little banter with Carmen our hostess, who suggests a bus to Lugo and when the idea is swiftly dismissed observes that the peregrinos are loco ... and laughingly accepts the riposte that while we walk, walk, walk, her life is work, work, work, so who is loco ... or loca ...? Anyway, she retires in November and seems to not be looking forward to the intervening Camino season ... 150 a day on the road in summer and many of them staying at her Pension and Albergue ... there are two others in this small town ...

Plenty of time on easy tracks to examine thoughts as they come and go ... first 9km to Castroverde fast enough, a juice and coffee there, then on another hour or so to unexpected al fresco bar, with Luxembourg pair installed ... a small beer and large slice of Tarta de Santiago and short rest before plodding on, and on and just after 3pm it's Lugo for lunch, menu del dia of vegetable soup, merluza with potatoes, crepes with honey, washed down with a suggested sparkling water with red wine and coffee to finish ... on through the tourist centre, though not delayed by interesting history ... city energy not required. .. on the road out is a rather tired Albergue with a rather morose owner and his more enthusiastic daughter, demonstrating her command of English ... no one else here, good WiFi, sheets, blankets and towel provided, view of the river and sunny room to sit in as rain takes a rest ... poor reviews about the owner or the run down ambience, who knows? Anyway the reviews seem to be from a small sample ... enough facilities and cleanliness  satisfies this rather footsore pilgrim, whose standards are hardly five star or even three ... enough is enough ... less than 100km to Santiago now, two days to join the French Way at Melide ... or as David says, for the French Way to join the Primitivo ...