Friday 18 October 2019

Cadavo and Carmen

Out after 8 in dismal pre-dawn ... porridge from the pack, coffee, juice and pastry in the bar, and on the road early enough for comfortable 25km by 2.45, steep climbs notwithstanding ... solitude for a while, as Way avoids hard shoulders where possible ... more forest tracks with their special energy... an hour or so with Kaspar from Denmark, suffering from flu or something ... finding his life balance between walking the Ways and earning the cash in casual work to walk some more ... at halfway coffee and tortilla stop Silka shows up for brief reunion before return to solo stretch before English couple, Claire and Wraith, turn up ... walking their dog, living locally, trying to survive simply on harsh land in a harsh climate with friendly locals (once they realised the pair were sticking around) ... some talk of parallel worlds and Wraith revealing his name change (from Simon) to strengthen his shift from a hellish childhood, indicated by mural tattooed on his back ... a work in progress - the shift, not the tattoo. .. Silka shows up and bonds with Claire, possibly playing angel to Simon - Wraith's tortured soul ... all speculation of course, but a very special connection, slowing the pace before the seeming vertical climb to La Lastra and a swift shandy break, then non-stop to Cadavo, San Matteo Albergue from Spring and Carmen signing us in as well as serving menu del dia next door ...

Tomorrow Lugo, the big city, nearly 30km but less climbing ...

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