Wandering towards Navia, with an albergue just beyond, testing the ankle with a comfortable 9km along the road to see what can be done . . . just before town, an impulsive left turn up to a viewpoint, which offers a great view of Navia and its estuary, of which I am on the wrong side . . . and, as usual, loth to turn back, follow a forest track, which becomes a path, then woodland, a scramble up a bank, across a field, then a garden . . . which adventure adds an hour to the trip and an ache to the ankle . . .
Having spotted the railway track, the thought occurs to rest on the train and speed up the trip . . . Santander coming into focus and my ankle maybe saying enough is enough. It's three hours on the slow train to Oviedo and philosophy with Victor, a young anthropologist and inveterate traveller from Madrid . . . a heartfelt connection.
The ride is spectacular too, along the coast and across the Picos mountains.
In Oviedo, where Caminos converge, only two other pilgrims so far at the albergue - Carolina from Spain and Massimo from Italy.
After a shower, it's out for a look round, and chocolate and churros to make up for the lost lunch . . .
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