Tui to Bar Corisco, Redondela

Spanish time, custom and culture mean an adjustment, especially if Santander is to be walked . . . though buses are available.

To trick the mind and legs, whilst fuelling the stomach, today's plan is to go native, start early, take a long lunch, continue later, when the sun has cooled a little.

So, out at dawn and more or less non-stop to Porrino, along woodland, riverside paths then a long straight road through an industrial estate, before the first coffee after 3 hours walking. There is a new alternative route to avoid the industry, but the yellow arrows still show the old way and we are conditioned to follow them . . . along the wrong route are at least 6 other pilgrims walking, plus plenty cycling too.

Before Redondela, the possible overnight stop, the route climbs steeply, then descends steeper . . . and before the town, Bar Corisco appears, offering a pilgrim lunch for €7.50, and I am hot, hungry and tired . . . a proper peasant bar, with rough red wine served in china bowls and big plates of food.

Oscar and Anabel are proper hosts and give me a photo as well as a complimentary liqeur. Do call in and try some Galician hospitality if you are passing.

I join Jose-Luis and try some Spanish . . . he was at the albergue in Tui and is pushing on past Redondela.

And now that my meal has settled, so am I.