After yesterday's effort, today's 22 km feels like a rest day, the combined 72 km is a good average . . . and the legs appreciate the break . . .
At the first coffee stop there are two cafes and a persuasive young woman from the second is standing before the first tempting pilgrims with all sorts of bargains. . . wondering how that competition plays out . . .
Joining Michael from Vienna, Austria, some philosophy ensues . . . a practising catholic, he suggests Jesus may have spent time in India and learnt from the Buddhists . . . though hasn't shared the idea with his priest . . . heresy is still frowned upon in the Roman church, along with female priests, married clergy . . . open minds . . .
Onwards to Caldas de Reis and the Albergue Catro Canos draws me, just before the town. Upstairs is full, Soraya says, and shows me to the downstairs one, with two bunk beds and a single . . . which is luxury after last night's room crammed with bunks . . . lunch is home-made vegetable soup, easter cake, home-made red wine and a complimentary Orujo . . . just as well today's walking is done.
At the table are Philip and Robert, sharing a son and father bonding experience, which both are enjoying. From Hanover, they fulfil the German stereotype, with father and mother engineers and son studying to be one too.
A wander into town establishes tomorrow's route, though taking the wrong road back puts me on the other side of a river, which I end up wading across . . . no problem since it is hot and shoes and trousers will soon dry . . .
Two days to Santiago (or one if another epic calls) and an intriguing alternative presents itself . . . the Via Romana XIX, which shares the Camino in places, seems to head for Lugo from here . . . cutting off Santiago and picking up the Primitive Way early is tempting . . .
In any case, it is good to get back into the rhythm of walking with a shared purpose (albeit vague and different for each pilgrim) . . . Michael asks about British routes and Richard has proposed reviving or creating some . . .