The luxury albergue at Portilla provided a comfortable sleep, adequate lunch, meagre breakfast ... left in lobby overnight, since Alejandro seems to be coping single handed and skips early morning duties ... good enough, substance maybe sacrificed for style somewhat ... €39 swallows most of the cash, leaving supper to cheese and chocolate ... a few coins for the halfway coffee before cash points in Riano ... which arrives after a few interesting hours along the arrowless road, main Potes to Mansilla route having joined at Portilla ... early diversionary adventure over a footbridge to a promising path off the asphalt so disliked by Nils and other pilgrims for its unforgiving surface, proximity to traffic and insidious camber ... ends with a precipitous ascent past low overhanging branches and an uncharacteristic retreat ... giving Sun a chance to illuminate the road, albeit indirectly, since this steep-sided valley is heading south and he is late rising in the east ...
After two promising villages, with three arrows indicating off road alternative, no bar appears ... at the third there is one ... closed ... a little early says a local, though the sun is up and it is gone 11 am ... at the fourth a rather morose owner serves coffee and WiFi ... recklessly attempting to elicit a smile, a solo with a dash of local firewater is requested ... which works ... let's hope €3.60 is enough !
Deogracias agrees to a photo, without the smile ... and the last coins are put on the counter ... no change required, though there is some ... a sincere farewell, resisting a clumsy pun on his name ... his eyes show sadness and compassion and the smiles were real enough ... feels good to go to Riano with zero cash ... the card will hopefully replenish reserves ...
The handsome town comes soon enough, back on the main road ... newly constructed in 1985 to replace the original, drowned by the reservoir ... itself sitting beautifully in the landscape ... the engineers providing water for the thirsty plain and its big city, Leon ...
Begòňa is taking care of the restaurant and hostel and puts her heart and soul into the job ... delighted when two random English folks, Ben and Sian from Wimbledon are enticed to the table with their coffees for some walker chat ... also retired, their trip via Bilbao and hire car has included Fuente De yesterday, walking the Picos. .. on to Leon this evening ... wonderful menu del dia with added chips ... delicious tart with chocolate ...a photo from Begona, who puts on a clean pinny for the occasion ... now to check the scenery and the clothes drying on a bench in the sun ... whilst another bench is signposted the Most Beautiful Bench of Leon ... referring to the view, not the bench, of course ...
Tomorrow suggests a longish 37 km to Cistierna in warm sunshine ... intermediate possibilities available ... legs, feet, energy all fine and ready for a 8 hour walk ... steadily down towards the plain ...
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