Friday 21 October 2016

San Vicente to La Fuente

Forecast for full sun ... out before 9 ... Karina and Remi in charge now ... climbing, south, east, west ... not north, that's the sea ... along with Santiago route to Munorrodero, feet fine, legs glad to be moving ... bar declined in favour of church with sunny seat to air the feet ... some chocolate from rations .. on in search of red cross of Camino Liebana route ... not found, so roadside briskly upwards ... lunch stop with pinchos and coffee at Camijanes and very friendly owner ... only an hour to Cades and proposed first day albergue ... slowing down ... enjoying the sun, the mountains ...
Cades comes quickly ... too soon really, but municipal albergue looks good and friendly local points to nearby house as place to find the key ... not the next door bar, he says, significantly .... at the house the two old ladies have no key and my poor Spanish gets me no further ... along to the bar for a rest and coffee before pushing on to next possibility ... rather miserable chap serves small coffee and asks 1.10 euros ... overpriced for here, especially since the large coffee and 6 pinchos at the previous bar were an underpriced 2 euros ...

Climbing steadily along the quiet road, following the river up, bars and beds thin on the ground ... finally La Fuente ... suggested by Lola ... at 39 km already 5 km from the end of proposed second day ... a pretty little church ... modern municipal albergue ... Hilario carving clogs points to it, says the hospitalero will return soon, but it is open, so go in and take a shower ... which has the simple qualities required ... hose, hot and cold water, good pressure ... perfect ... Mikhail arrives, checks me in ... declines to identify his nationality, saying it separates us ... Russian is my guess ... deep ... proposing evening meal, bed and breakfast for 11 euros ... all vegetarian ... delicious ...

David, from Madrid, last seen leaving the albergue at San Vicente a good hour before me, arrives ... making me think I took a short cut somewhere ... or maybe he stopped for lunch ... his English is about as good as my Spanish ...  no wifi but essential info for tomorrow from the enigmatic Mikhail...

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