Thursday 12 April 2018

Caldas de Rei to Padron

A short 19 km in light rain ... a slow wander with more philosophy, coffee stops to reunite with pilgrims ... Peter and Lisa, heading for the monastery at Herbon for the night ... Mercienne taking her time and having teamed up with Gosha (settled in Edinburgh via Poland) slowed by her feet ... Steve 1 from Boston (your blogger was introduced as "and this is Steve too") and Serena. .. the English 4 ...through ancient woodland with great presence and interesting trees, some amended by pilgrims ... and a couple of km before Padron, a toilet stop being required, an eccentric establishment with an eccentric creator ... Alessandro ... speaking a little English and seeing we might understand some Spanish launching into a tale of Franciscan monks from Herbon crossing the Atlantic in search of India, setting up the cathedral Santiago de Compostela near what is now Los Angeles ... at least that seems to be the gist of it ... part of the eccentricity was a rather cynical view of pilgrims popping in for photos and toilets without buying anything ... leading to rather pricey soup and coffees ... of course there is a value to the toilet facility and entertainment ... as we ready to leave, Gray, Mike, Lisa and Julie (the Enlish 4) arrive for a slightly dear and cafetiere coffee or three ...

After three days and two Pensions sharing a room with Party, both simple, clean, with adequate shared bathrooms, in Padron an upgrade though not more expensive. .. the room with ensuite, luxury bathtowels, a bath with plug ... strong internet (a mixed blessing, but helpful for blogging, entertainment, route checking ...) laundry opposite for the first proper wash for clothes since Coimbra ... restaurant downstairs ...

Patty is using onward baggage, making walking easier but complicating life a little as the bag has to be picked from somewhere and delivered somewhere else, which means booking ahead ... which restricts spontaneity whilst alleviating anxiety ... anyway there are no complaints here, since each room so far has had a spare bed ...

Tomorrow, Santiago ... 24km short enough for a half day wander as processions of pilgrims join hundreds of others from the other Ways ...

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