Early start means first hour before breakfast brings Povoa de Varzim and four pilgrims before 8 ... the first yellow arrows to which peregrino persona is conditioned ... and breakfast ready for a possible long stage ... legs keen after yesterday's inaction ... light rain encourages plodding and contrast with heavy rain in Cordoba last week noted ... at the Cafe Sport de Fao, Luis creates a Camino arrow in the coffee ... enjoying the pilgrims, four more of whom arrive as this one leaves ... Augustine and his friends from Barcelona have been knocking off the routes for ten years ... aiming for Marinhas today whilst this pilgrim has Viana do Castelo in his sights ... looking possible after Marinhas lunch and on the road for another 20 km this afternoon ... first 30 covered swiftly on seaside boardwalks and promenade, cobbled back roads and sandy tracks before lunch break for an hour... second 20 tougher as route deserts coast and heads inland and up, through woods as rain falls harder before easing off ... last hour tough with more climbing before dropping down into Darque as the light was fading, then over the bridge in strong winds as street lights come on ... Pousada de Juventude easily found by the river, Christel kindly booking in and suggesting the 4 bed dorm may have only one pilgrim tonight ... helpful, since the radiator is adequate for one damp peregrino, but maybe not more ... her observation that she likes the rain, along with general sunny demeanour, suggests she knows the secret of liking what you cannot change ... she says the summer was crazy with pilgrims on this route ... certainly seems picking your season is important, as well as your route ... Augustine confirming Primitivo as his favourite ... maybe early Spring?
Reflecting on yesterday's train reading, Perfume by Patrick Suskind, read some years ago and picked from Tavira charity shop ... in novel form, it explores questions olfactory and the nature of evil, through its anti-hero, Grenouille ... the proposition being that everything has its signature scent if only our sense of smell was as acute as his ... and that he has no signature scent himself, suggesting the absence of vital essence, or soul ... meaning that he is virtually invisible to other humans and if he wants to project a persona he creates a perfume to wear ... reflections here that getting to know a woman better is quicker and more effective if they don't mask their natural odour with flowery scents ... a good sniff in the neck let's you know how well suited you may be ... though friends may observe such techniques have not produced long term partnerships recently ...
The epic 50 sets things up nicely for a Fisterra finish in a week ... let's hope La Espiral is open; FB says Simone has gone ... maybe a message to Fatima or just let it be for the sake of the surprise. .. and take the consequences ...
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