pilgrims

What does it mean, to be a pilgrim?

There are many different people walking towards Santiago, some walking home or somewhere else. The generic name is pilgrim, though several folks I have met are critical of others, saying they are not "proper pilgrims". It is not a label I am always comfortable with to be honest.

This is a centuries old catholic route and the catholics are very generous towards those of all religions and none. Of course, pilgrimages have gone on all over the world for a long time. Muslims to Mecca, various destinations for Hindus, Buddhists, Jews and what have you. Canterbury in England.

For some, the destination is important, for others, not at all. For many, the daily, moment by moment, experience is the thing.

Jose-Antonio, the Spanish Air Force Colonel (retired), has strong views about it. A pilgrim lives simply, walks mostly alone, respects the people and places along the way. The couple we met in Carrion he called "tourists". In the summer there are hundreds of thousands on the road. Many young people see it as an adventure and, Juanma, Luis and others pointed out, a cheap holiday.

With the warning that judgement and discernement are different; one about the person, the other the behaviour, I venture my own views as a part-time pilgrim.

The graffiti along the way, in the albergues, on the bunk beds, is one of my personal dislikes, along with the litter. Neither was apparent in Aragon, but both are increasingly evident as we near Santiago.

I also consider folks walking all the way in company, chattering, may be missing something. I have aways enjoyed solitude, never more so than on the camino. Adrien regretted missing the opportunity. He is very gregarious and it can be hard to tell people you want to be alone.

Maybe another generic word is needed - caminoisto/a . . . clumsy . . . caminard, more French . . .

The tourist trade is full on with it, pilgrim menus (Juanma joked: do they charge non-pilgrims a different price?), pilgrim accomodation, not just the simple albergues, TV if you want it. A bath would be good after a long day's walk; there is always a hot shower, but not a bath. Swimming pools along the way though.

Luis said the camino is "Life concentrated", I see that. Juanma called it "Pure Tao". I'm not sure about that. It seems the pilgrims (whoever they may be), are being swamped by the tourists. Maybe the authentic caminos would be made by each pilgrim or caminard as they wandered, finding pure connection of hospitality to strangers, which is lost as tourism takes over.

"With each step you take, your own path you make."