Out at 6.15, planning 10km to Samos, on the road, in the dark. Then 11km to Sarria with the light and see what happens after that - Portomarin 24km on from there, a possibility.
It is drizzly again, so not much help from the stars. New moon briefly appears, with misty aura, to say hello. The information from yesterday that bears are in the woods is slightly unwelcome now, but it's just two hours, following the white line at the side of the road, ignoring camino offers to divert . . . a long walking meditation.
Coffee at Samos, beside the massive monastery, then off again, dawn having arrived damply. Soon there is a choice: straight on alongside the road or divert into the hills. My mind says road, heart says hills. Which adds an hour to the stage, but it needed slowing down. Up and down along tracks and quiet back roads, through woods and past camino facilities closed for winter.
Outside Sarria, a picnic lunch of bread and cheese, the apples I picked at Rabanal. Drier now and mild.
In Sarria I consider the options. A German pilgrim says Portomarin is a long way; he is staying here, waiting for the albergue to open at two. The bloke who serves my coffee says it's not so far, four hours walking. Either way, it's 24 km, the weather is fine, it's 1.45, and if I keep going I will be there before dark. Anyway, there are a couple of open albergues before.
After a steep climb, the route becomes easy. Level, good surfaces, made up lanes and back roads. Looking rather like Teesdale, albeit with a motorway viaduct in the distance.
At Ferrieros an old woman selling raspberry jam. I buy some. How far to Portomarin? 12, she says. I believe her, plan afternoon tea with the jam at 3, and push on. She was optimistic, but it lifted me and the jam, bread and cheese energised me too.
The last 5 drags, I can see the town, but have to go down and up again. Finally, I find the municipal albergue. 5.30 pm. Eleven hours on the road, nearly ten walking, 45 km. Only 90 to Santiago, then a long trip south, though not walking.
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