Ventarique to Baza . . .

Well, we're on the road again.

The Helpx experience will turn out to be useful, like most of the experiences which are not comfortable at the time.

I had more or less decided to finish on Saturday. Maureen and Svein were planning their cruise, the work was dragging, the food average, the company unconvivial. And despite hot days, the evenings were cool and the only heating was in their sitting room.

After work yesterday (which was slightly surprising), I told Svein I was going early in the morning. He was friendly, offered to take me to Albox. I planned to walk down the rambla in the dark, get back in journey mood. I called up to say goodbye to Maureen. She asked if it was something they had done. A moment of self- awareness perhaps, albeit sharing any possible guilt with the blameless Svein. I kindly lied, thanked her for her hospitality.

This morning I left at 6 am, confident in the route, having walked it Saturday. The night was starful, though the half moon was hiding somewhere. By 7.15 I was at the hotel for coffee, then out of town with some options: bus to Granada, hitch a lift and go wherever the driver was going, Seville, Tavira . . .

At the bus stop, a woman told me the Granada bus had gone. I walked on, looking for a hitch-hiking spot. It was still too dark for hitching and too cold to stand about, so I walked along the road until it became motorway, then looked for the alternative. Wandered up a likely road, found a service station with bar. Another coffee and a chat with Andy, who gets his own chapter. He gives me directions, then I go back to the motorway slip road to try my luck. After an hour I decide to walk to Fines, 8 km away and a good spot to pick up a lift . . . or a bus.

Off route, I bump into Andy again. He drops me to the track I need and I soon reach a cafe for refreshments. Then over the motorway, as instructed, swing my thumb and a car pulls up. An old Spanish bloke. Cantoria? Sounds familiar, I jump in and we are soon there. Nice town. Spotting expats at a table in the sun, I get my bearings. Completely wrong for Fines. We'll drop you on the right road when we've finished our coffee. They have been to their Spanish class. Kevin and Linda from South Moulton, Exmoor, Devon. He installs damproofing for other expats. The Spanish don't bother. Just tile half the wall to cover it up. They are back in Exmoor next week to sell Linda's mother's house. She died. They have no plans to return permanently, they prefer it here.

They drop me at the spot the Spanish bloke picked me up. I've had two lifts, seen Cantoria and heard another expat tale.

In Fines, find a bus to Baza, on the main road to Granada. Options include a direct overnight bus to Seville, leaving at 00.45, hitching or bussing on to Granada, staying here. There is no rush, stories want writing, 00.45 is way past bedtime, Seville will wait. I want to take a look round there, maybe arrive tomorrow, stay a night.

The hotel here is a bargain. €20, warm room, hot shower with plenty of water, clean and comfortable. And wifi, of course.