It was dark and drizzly leaving Rabanal at 7 am, Augustus and Alphonso thinking about breakfast. Warm hugs after our Anglo- Lithuanian bonding session of the last two days and a separate blog to describe it.
The road was without cars this early on a Sunday. Anyway, it's a local road, not a motorway. The camino follows it, with opportunities to divert a while.
My rambling post exploring the topic of research yesterday conceptually is now enriched by Life School. A poster in the Rabanal albergue shows Gaudi's fine building in Astorga - the museum of the Camino. Quite a good place to research the topic, but I missed it. Since I do not know whether the road and the path go together to Ponferrada, I have to find out for myself. When I asked Fernando about the 33km stage he only said it was hard, with the climb and very steep descent.
After 15 minutes or so of contentedly plodding along the white line in the centre of the road, the camino goes off to the left. I consider and follow it, which is trickier in the dark, watching out for rocks and puddles. Torch is helpful. A little excitement, then returned to the relative security of the road. Hard to lose, not sure to go to Ponferrada yet, but heading up and west; good enough and I am enjoying the interior journey, easier when the walking takes care of itself.
The first village appears after an hour, yesterday's destination for most of the Astorga crew. The road offers an alternative route for cyclists, I don't want coffee, stay on the road. After another hour, a mountain refuge, soon after a Spanish couple putting on capes against the drizzle. We talk briefly. They stayed at the mountain refuge, just starting their day's walking. A warm connection, then a camino option. They seem reluctant to offend, but prefer the path dropping down. I prefer the road. We part. I ask their names. Angel and Amor. Angel and Love. I smile, they smile too, though they must have this reaction all the time. Perhaps we will talk more later. For now, it's a perfect moment, maybe from another dimension.
And so on, lifted by the trees and the mountains.
Francisco said the first part of the Camino was for the body, physical; the second part for the mind, mental; the third part for the soul, spiritual. He has researched it, so maybe it wasn't his thought, but I am starting to see it.
After three and a half hours, El Acebo, La Casa del Peregrinos and another angel - Ana, from La Casa del Peregrino, not to be confused with another one on the way out of town, with a swimming pool and looking very touristy.
Ana greets me with a sincere smile, serves my large cafe con leche and chocolate muffin, points me to the log burner, turns on the lights in that part of the bar. I spread out my wet clothes to dry by the fire, then start to write, post to Facebook.
Since I am nearly halfway, I take my time, request a carahillo, another muffin. Ask for photos for you to see. Ana brings a complimentary Oruja de Hierbas, a local liqueur, which is delicious.
On over the top, down towards Ponferrada, clearly visible below, though a long road with hairpin bends to follow first. The rain stops, sun tries his best and the road is easy. After yesterday's rest and food, I have plenty of energy and barely stop until Ponferrada, having dreamt up a brand new idea to share later.
The albergue here is church run, very peaceful, without wifi. I fetch food from the supermarket attached to the service station with bar, all called La Peregrina . . . the (female) pilgrim. An unlikely name for a place for cars, but the pilgrim theme wants unpacking soon. I am grateful for the food, now cooked and shared with Patrick, who brings rice, my French room-mate tonight, Augustus and Alphonso, who arrived just before 6 and go for wine, bread and cheese and Amor and Angel, who come in as we are eating our international meal. Angel does the dishes. . . . grateful also for the pastries and wifi . . .
A great day in the mountains, lots more stories under construction, a great idea for a new product and, after two days practicing to be a hospitalier as I would like to see it, buying olive oil, salt, coffee and leaving what we did not use, Xavier, Catalan pilgrim and hospitalier here has done just that.
Tomorrow, up into the mountains again, and a forecast of a sunny day. An intriguing offer from Almeria via Helpx too . . .
No comments:
Post a Comment